Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, back in November, I bought a set of Avon grips. Install was easy and straight forward. Yesterday, I was replacing all the turn signal bulbs and noticed that the throttle is very sticky with the bars all the way right; but, just fine centered and all left. The bike came with aftermarket cables.

I know how to adjust the throttle cables, but, what is it I need to do to allow them to operate throttle grip easily thru entire steering range? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
did you lube the cable ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,670 Posts
maybe the cable is snagged up somewhere .... did the cable get rerouted when the grips where changed. As they were aftermarket cables, are they the correct length.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Idk if cables were lubed. I didn't install them. They are a little long for the bars, but not too long. Cables were not rerouted during grip installation.

EDIT: The adjustments are as short as possible. If I lengthen them any, the throttle gets much harder to turn. I don't think I have any adjustment to work with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Idk if cables were lubed. I didn't install them. They are a little long for the bars, but not too long. Cables were not rerouted during grip installation.

EDIT: The adjustments are as short as possible. If I lengthen them any, the throttle gets much harder to turn. I don't think I have any adjustment to work with.
Suggest you get a cable lube tool and an aerosol can of cable lube like PJ1 and give both throttle and the clutch cable a good dose of lube. You want the lube to get forced down the entire length of the cable. Videos on youtube about the provedure. As noted previously carefully check the length of the cable (with the steering turned in the direction where the throttle binds) to make sure is is not kinked anywhere, there should be no sharp bends in the cable. A sticky throttle is a serious safety issue.

WB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
It seems to me the cables are too long when it's turned to the right. There doesn't seem to be any binding between throttle body and throttle tube. So, I guess taller bars are in order.
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
If the issue wasn't present before the new grips I suggest you go back in and check a few things. Does the grip by itself without cables move freely on the bar end? I find that when putting on new grips there needs to be just a bit of space at the bar end so it is not rubbing on the end of the grip. Should be able to, ever so slightly, move the grip and feel just a bit of slack. I had a set last year (ironically avons) that just weren't quite big enough for the bar. Hard to say where the issue was because I was doing new bars and grips. I had to get a small hone and bore out the plastic inside diameter of the grip a bit to get it free'd up and not bind, just like you are describing.

I don't make this a practice but when I removed the stock grips from the stock bars (This is my glide) there was a light layer of grease on the bars inside the grip. I do not recommend doing this unless you are willing to maintain and check annually, clean and re-lube due to dirt accumulation.

Just food for thought.

And I got a cable lube tool and lube from Motion Pro fairly cheaply. It's a bit of a crude process but cables need to be lubed to the point where you get lube coming out the opposite end being filled. I bet yours are dry either way, and it's a good idea to just get them lubed and be done with it for peace of mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If the issue wasn't present before the new grips I suggest you go back in and check a few things. Does the grip by itself without cables move freely on the bar end? I find that when putting on new grips there needs to be just a bit of space at the bar end so it is not rubbing on the end of the grip. Should be able to, ever so slightly, move the grip and feel just a bit of slack. I had a set last year (ironically avons) that just weren't quite big enough for the bar. Hard to say where the issue was because I was doing new bars and grips. I had to get a small hone and bore out the plastic inside diameter of the grip a bit to get it free'd up and not bind, just like you are describing.

I don't make this a practice but when I removed the stock grips from the stock bars (This is my glide) there was a light layer of grease on the bars inside the grip. I do not recommend doing this unless you are willing to maintain and check annually, clean and re-lube due to dirt accumulation.

Just food for thought.

And I got a cable lube tool and lube from Motion Pro fairly cheaply. It's a bit of a crude process but cables need to be lubed to the point where you get lube coming out the opposite end being filled. I bet yours are dry either way, and it's a good idea to just get them lubed and be done with it for peace of mind.
The grip moves freely when bars are centered and rotated to the left. If I try to adjust the length of the cables, the throttle becomes even more stiff and barely turns. I have had the plastic housing apart with the throttle tube off, but still attached to the cables and it doesn't make any difference. This tells me the cables are too long when bars are full lock to the right. The bars are HD 10" mini apes.

I've installed Kuryakyn grips on other 900's and never had an issue. Heck, I bought the exact same grips for my Dad's Kawasaki 1700 LT and the grip side works fine.

I'll have to spend more time this weekend getting this resolved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Hi crazyriderguy,
I had this experience a month ago. I used a spray and a luber tool to clean the cables and adjusted to 3mm play/slack with the handlebar straight. Spray some sort of dry lube inside the grip too.

I see from your pics that the cable adjusters are all the way in, meaning you can't increase the throttle play. Does it have at least 2 mm of play with the handlebars turned right?

If you can't loosen the cables I'd suggest to disconnect the return cable (the lower one) from the grip temporary and see what happens.
I know from experience that if you tighten enough the return cable you can basically make the throttle stick to whatever position you'd like to, just like a cruise control thingy.
(Some people remove the return cable... I do some stupid $][|t myself, but not this...)

If you were to set the throttle cable with no slack and then turn the handlebars left and right you'd notice a change in idle RPM. Because of the geometry of the handlebar, turning the handlebar translates into a rotation of the grips on the vertical axis, so when turning right you open the throttle a little.

* Same goes for the clutch cable adjustment too. If you were to set it tight w/ the handlebar turned left, by turning right you'd pull in the clutch (a little) without touching the lever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
You want to shorten the length of the cable housing to give the throttle more play... Looking at the pics you posted you're all the way in with the adjusters, meaning minimum housing length, maximum cable play/slack. If that is the case, the cables are too short or to be more precise, the cable housing is too long.

There is a jam nut on the return cable by the grip that can give you a little more play. As I recall, you disconnect the cables and you screw in the return cable's housing end all the way in. (it it the lower of the two. The top one, the pull cable, has no threads. )

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
durox: I'm guessing the top cable is the return. If so, that sucker is tight. Not as tight when left, but still tight. The bottom cable has slack thru bar's entire range of motion. I cannot introduce any play at this point. If I try to adjust out the cables, the throttle quits turning when to the right. Would it be ok to cut out some of the outer cable housing? If so, what would you recommend I use to reseal housing?

Thanks a million!

EDIT: I took throttle off again today. This has me totally buffaloed. You would think that once off the bar, the throttle would rotate freely regardless of bar position, but it does! The throttle still acts the same whether mounted to the bar or off of it. Also, which screws do I remove to take air cleaner off for better access to throttle body? Thanks again!

EDIT 2: You're last post with the picture just sunk in. Gonna go see what happens. Thanks!

EDIT 3: Ok, got the bottom cable housing screwed as far as I can get it. It now seems to be dragging on the cable cam, but the throttle is returning better. Still a bit slow, but better than before. I'd like to know if I can do something about the cable housing to get even better. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
CRG,

Did you follow the service manual instructions?


Throttle Control System Inspection •Check the throttle grip free play [A].
If the free play is incorrect, adjust the throttle cable.
Throttle Grip Free Play
Standard: 2 ∼ 3 mm (0.08 ∼ 0.12 in.)
•Check that the throttle grip moves smoothly from close to
full open, and the throttle closes quickly and completely
in all steering positions by the return spring.
If the throttle grip doesn’t return properly, check the throttle
cable routing, grip free play, and cable damage. Then
lubricate the throttle cable.
. Run the engine at the idle speed, and turn the handlebar
all the way to the right and left to ensure that the idle speed
doesn’t change.
If the idle speed increases, check the throttle grip free play
and the cable routing.
•If necessary, adjust the throttle cable as follows:
○Loosen the locknuts [A] and screw the adjusters all the
way in so as to give the throttle grip plenty of play.
○Turn out the adjuster of the decelerator cable [D] until
there is no play.
○Tighten the locknut against the adjuster.
○Turn the adjuster of the accelerator cable [C] until the
proper amount of throttle grip free play is obtained and
tighten the locknut against the adjuster.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
CRG,

Did you follow the service manual instructions?


Throttle Control System Inspection ?Check the throttle grip free play [A].
If the free play is incorrect, adjust the throttle cable.I
Throttle Grip Free Play
Standard: 2 ∼ 3 mm (0.08 ∼ 0.12 in.)
?Check that the throttle grip moves smoothly from close to
full open, and the throttle closes quickly and completely
in all steering positions by the return spring.
If the throttle grip doesn?t return properly, check the throttle
cable routing, grip free play, and cable damage. Then
lubricate the throttle cable.
. Run the engine at the idle speed, and turn the handlebar
all the way to the right and left to ensure that the idle speed
doesn?t change.
If the idle speed increases, check the throttle grip free play
and the cable routing.
?If necessary, adjust the throttle cable as follows:
○Loosen the locknuts [A] and screw the adjusters all the
way in so as to give the throttle grip plenty of play.
○Turn out the adjuster of the decelerator cable [D] until
there is no play.
○Tighten the locknut against the adjuster.
○Turn the adjuster of the accelerator cable [C] until the
proper amount of throttle grip free play is obtained and
tighten the locknut against the adjuster.


Read what durox posted. The adjusters are all the way in and I still dont have any free play in throttle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
So, I just got back in from messing with the bike. I went as far as mostly removing the brake side air cleaner assembly. I wanted to see if there were any adjustments at the TB. There is, but it didn't make any difference. However, I did notice a couple disturbing things: one, the air cleaner drain tube is gone and that port is plugged; two, found two vacuum caps plugging two ports on top of TB.

Now, I know plugging the drain port on the air cleaner is a big no no. But, I am more curious about the plugs on top of the TB. Any thoughts?

One last thing, the motion pro cables have steel cores with a clear rubber outer casing. I have a mini steel tube cutter I can use. It appears the top cable needs the casing cut maybe 1/8th to 1/4 of an inch to allow free play and to back the adjuster off some. Anything wrong with going this route? I intend to use shrink tubing to seal the exposed cabling.

Thanks!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7iQnlFQvJfMUHBXRXhaVE9rcjQ/view?usp=sharing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
So it seems that you need to make the top cable looser one way or another.

If you are thinking about shortening the cable's housing it would be wise to invite some other forum members to post ideas before you do the cut... My first guess is that it would be easier and more practical to cut on the other end of the cable, right by the throttle body behind the air filter. A picture of that area showing your cables would help everyone in coming up with ideas.

Another approach would be to modify the grip itself. If the decelerator cable permits it, file the grip in such a manner that would allow it to travel back more when the throttle is closed... See the picture:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
So it seems that you need to make the top cable looser one way or another.

If you are thinking about shortening the cable's housing it would be wise to invite some other forum members to post ideas before you do the cut... My first guess is that it would be easier and more practical to cut on the other end of the cable, right by the throttle body behind the air filter. A picture of that area showing your cables would help everyone in coming up with ideas.

Another approach would be to modify the grip itself. If the decelerator cable permits it, file the grip in such a manner that would allow it to travel back more when the throttle is closed... See the picture:
I tried something similar. I removed the stop inside the switch housing. This allowed the grip to travel further forward, but it wasn't enough. Also, Avon sent two cams: the one in your picture and the other has an oblong hole. Unfortunately, I threw that one out. It could have provided a slight amount of relief.

There is a hose right above the drain port on the air cleaner that I can't remove at this time. Once I am able, I can get better pics of the TB area.

What about the caps on the TB in the picture link? Are they supposed to be there? Thanks!

EDIT: I guess my concern was for nothing. I went to Babbitts and looked at the air cleaner and TB diagrams and they show exactly what's on my bike. I just find it odd that the air cleaner doesn't have a drain tube for condensation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
643 Posts
Suggest you contact Avon and ask then to send you the cam. Lot's of companies have good customer service and will send something like that at no cost, you did buy their grips. Worth a call to them. I think cutting the cable is a last resort, those are very nice looking cables by the way.

WB
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Happy New Year everyone!

This is not the actual cable, just a picture of housing ends. If you take the cable off, pull out the end cap, you could cut the housing with care and put back the end cap or whatever it's called.

If 3mm is all you need, I think I would eliminate the jam nut on the cable adjuster and screw the adjuster all the way in -use some threadlock or superglue for safety. Maybe some shortening of the adjuster's stud is needed too. If you unscrew it all the way out you can measure everything...

As i've said before, if you decide to cut the housing/sleve, I'd suggest you open a new thread and ask the forum members for ideas. I'm sure some people here have experience with repairing cables.
There are a few videos on YouTube... This one may interest you:
No need to cut the actual cable of course.

 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top