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Discussion Starter #1
hey yall,
was actually trying for the first time to use the steering lock on the vn900, however, when i put the key in, it moves left but will not release, do you know?

i have the front tire, bent to left, kickstand side. not sure what i am doin wrong, when i bot it , i saw it work . thanks!
 

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I always had to slightly move the bars to the right while unlocking.
 

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When the system is locked the turned steering puts pressure on the locking mechanism. Have to release that pressure like Car Guy states to be able to unlock.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks, but i can t get it to lock, wo getting my key back....it turns2lock position but it won't let me take the key out, need help
 

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Hi liondog. I misread your original post. If I now understand it, when you attempt to lock the steering the key turns to lock but you are unable to remove the key while it's in the lock position. It's been a long time since I had my 900 so maybe someone else can chime in with better info. Are you able to confirm the locking pin extends from the lock? If I remember right you can visually see it on the 900. I suspect the locking pin isn't fully extending which is preventing the key from coming out. Maybe by wiggling the steering while locking will help. You probably have the owner's manual but here's a link to the steering lock operation. Hope it helps!
 
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Just a quick inquiry liondog. If you are still having trouble is the key you are using a duplicate or a Kawasaki original key? Many times when I had extra keys made, they would work the ignition but not the trunk or fuel cap.
 

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thanks, but i can t get it to lock, wo getting my key back....it turns2lock position but it won't let me take the key out, need help
The lock on my 500 was a little squirrely the first couple times.
I am not sure what happened..it was going left easy enough but I had a little trouble going back to the right all the way after locking it to remove the key..I suspect a little corrosion somewhere wasn't letting a little piece move all the way or something.
After a little wiggleing of the bars while operating the lock and working the lock a little the stickiness feeling mostly disappeared.
I suspect that is wasn't used much before I got the bike and a little corrosion wasn't letting something move fully as it should.
Is your key going back to the right to the 3 o'clock position?..The key will be lined up in the same position as when you insert the key..it should come out then.



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You might try putting a little graphite in the lock and turning your key back and forth several times to see if it loosens up.
 

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hey yall,
was actually trying for the first time to use the steering lock on the vn900, however, when i put the key in, it moves left but will not release, do you know?

i have the front tire, bent to left, kickstand side. not sure what i am doin wrong, when i bot it , i saw it work . thanks!
I have a similar problem however I can't even get my key all the way in. I figure someone broke off a key or jammed something in the lock...I don't leave my bike anywhere and have a great bike cable lock but it would be nice to be able to lock the steering head if necessary. I'm thinking I might have to go to a locksmith.
 

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Would take a tiny screwdriver and a flashlight to see if there is a piece of a key in there. If not, spray some WD40 in the slot. Then wiggle the steering a little bit while trying to insert the key. Pressure from the weight of the bike through the front tire puts tension on the system. Will probably also have to wiggle the steering to unlock it. Also use a factory key. Had many a copy made that worked only one or two components of the bike and not the others. End up with keys only for the ignition, keys only for the saddlebags, keys only for the fuel cap, and some combinations.
 

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Would take a tiny screwdriver and a flashlight to see if there is a piece of a key in there. If not, spray some WD40 in the slot. Then wiggle the steering a little bit while trying to insert the key. Pressure from the weight of the bike through the front tire puts tension on the system. Will probably also have to wiggle the steering to unlock it. Also use a factory key. Had many a copy made that worked only one or two components of the bike and not the others. End up with keys only for the ignition, keys only for the saddlebags, keys only for the fuel cap, and some combinations.
Ive inspected it and used WD40 but no luck. I'll try a small screwdriver. I can't figure out how to get the core out so maybe a locksmith. When I bought the bike it had two sets of keys, one worked the ignition and the other the seat and gas cap. For some unknown reason after playing around with the bike, cleaning it etc. both keys worked in all locks (except for steering head of course) which was weird. I was about to order blanks and have spare keys made....it was a good sign :cool:
 

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Looking at this parts diagram, the locking assembly comes off with two bolts. Illustration number 27016B. The tumbler is not available separately so probably is not removable. Would take it off and look inside with a flashlight. Would think if a key broke off it would do so at the beginning of the tumbler and be very visible. Have a great day. Be well.

 

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Thanks for the schematic. I'll check it later when it stops raining ..(That's supposed to be a joke, we're into the rainy season now on the wet coast !) I've got the Clymer Manual but can't find anything on the steering lock..Changing the subject, I'll be winterizing my bike after Nov 27 which means I will be lifting the bike weight off the tires. I've purchased this very cool Venom stand that by using simple leveage I can raise the bike rear wheels off the ground by a few inches. (Unfortunalely not available now)...Makes servicing really easy. I have also put a small hydraulic jack under the front of the frame and cut some 2x4 blocks and can raise the front tire off the ground by about an inch. My question: by doing this will I be putting undue stress on the front fork hydraulics by suspending the front, and same for rear shock? Normally with my sport bikes I have stands that go under the axles which in turn takes the stress off the forks and rear shocks.


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2009 Vulcan 500
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A shock may sit on a shelf for years in a fully extended position.. no harm there.. if you are worried about the forks being topped out for so long then let the tire touch a little to compress the forks.. it won't take much weight at all.

For flat spots on tires.. people usually over air them which doesn't do anything as the tire isn't flexing.. run em low at low speed around the block a few times(one at a time).. two low tires could prove to be too squirrelly.

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A shock may sit on a shelf for years in a fully extended position.. no harm there.. if you are worried about the forks being topped out for so long then let the tire touch a little to compress the forks.. it won't take much weight at all.

For flat spots on tires.. people usually over air them which doesn't do anything as the tire isn't flexing.. run em low at low speed around the block a few times(one at a time).. two low tires could prove to be too squirrelly.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FG using Tapatalk
Thanks. Good to know. I'll let the front tire to rest on the ground just a bit. Cheers
 

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Thanks. Good to know. I'll let the front tire to rest on the ground just a bit. Cheers
It will also make the bike more stable..in the event someone bumps either the front or back..much less chance of 'pivoting' off the blocks.



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Discussion Starter #17
hey guy, researched this utube video showing home made wooden jack for only 20$ supplies, that is as good as amazon lift?...what do u think
 

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Discussion Starter #18
to answer some of your questions: original key ( i have another one i can try), i saw it done successfully when i bot it.
I do see the pin come out and enguage, but key wont slide out, when i turn it to the left (9 oclock), unless i turn it back to 3 oclock to remove key , but the pin isn't enguaged when i do it.

i didn't spray wd 40
does the bike have to be level?
 

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hey guy, researched this utube video showing home made wooden jack for only 20$ supplies, that is as good as amazon lift?...what do u think
This will def work and I’ve also seen a similar lift made with four 2x8’s, 3 bolted or nailed together and one at 90 degrees used as a lever, held at the end in between the two outside ones. Anyway, I have this one I bought on Amazon and I’m really happy with it. Unfortunately it says it not available right now but may come back in stock.
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In my opinion, the only issue I see with the above home-made wooden jack, as well as the Venom lift pictured, is that is appears you can only lift one wheel at a time. I guess that's fine for most projects but there are many times I'll lift my entire bike to do front to back inspections, cleaning (it makes cleaning the wheels sooo much easier), etc. Even if only needing to lift one wheel I find it easier to lift the entire bike to a more comfortable height to work on it.
 
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