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Discussion Starter #1
So, my stator went out on my Vulcan 900 Classic after 17.500 miles. This thread gives a background and all that lead up to replaceing my stator. Including testing the system to diagnose the stator problem.

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20984

There are alot of pictures in these upcoming treads.

Here is what it looked like before I got going on it. I put the bike on a bike lift since I was going to change my oil too. You have to remove the oil anyway to get to the stator.

These pictures are taking off the cover, disconnecting the battery, removing the side cover, removing the ignition. You have to remove the ignition to get the wire harness from around the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
These are the bolts around the stator cover. They are a bit blurry. Note that there are different size bolts to deal with so you need to keep track of them. There are also some wire holders under the stator cover around the frame so pay attention to how they are set up, and which wires they are holding.
 

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I had to remove the pulley cover and pulley. Taking off the pulley can be a job in itself, but you have to have it off to get to the plate that has the stator wires running behind it. The plate was a bit blurry. The last picture in this set shows the wires and that the stator cover is ready to come off. The stator is surrounded by the rotor and it has a really strong magnet so you have to really give that thing a tug to get it off. I was really surprised on just how strong that magenet is.
 

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These are the grommets that are keeping the oil in the alternator. I just took a knife and carefully cut away the silicone and removed them. The new stator already had it's wires running through a new grommet.

I cut the wires as close to the grommet as possible. If I were to do this again, I would have cut off the grommet on the other side and taken off that wire protector between the grommet and the stator and used it in the new set up.
The last picture is just to kind of size up the wires to see how much room I had.
 

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This is what the new stator looks like in place. Then I soldered them to the existing harness. The third is a better picture of the grommets. When I glued in the grommets with the silicone, the grommets kept riding out of place because of pressure from the stator wires. I didn't crimp down hard with the C-clamp, just enough to hold the ratchet in place while the silicone dried. I let the silicone dry for 24 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The last 2 pictures show where the wire harness rubbed though over the past few years. It hadn't bitten into the wires luckily. The place these wires were is around the floorboard. These wires go to the regulator. When I initially took the wire harness out, water poured out of this hole. I had ridden though some pretty big rain storms lately. To seal this off I went to home depot and found some liquid electrical tape. You need to put it on in coats to make it really work best.

That is the end of my post.
Thanks to all the guys that help me with the fix. I hope these pictures help with your stator replacement.

Shawn
 

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Thank you very much Shawn for your posts. This will take all of the guesswork away for others on this board that have the misfortune of a stator failure. It looked to me as if the red wire in the next-to-the-last photo was rubbed through to the bare copper. Is that true? If so, that short to the frame was increasing the load on the stator as that wire charges the battery. It also was a drain on the battery when the engine was off.
 

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Sealpt, very nice step by step directions. I appreciate your time to help us out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you very much Shawn for your posts. This will take all of the guesswork away for others on this board that have the misfortune of a stator failure. It looked to me as if the red wire in the next-to-the-last photo was rubbed through to the bare copper. Is that true? If so, that short to the frame was increasing the load on the stator as that wire charges the battery. It also was a drain on the battery when the engine was off.
I had thought it was rubbed though too, but that was just black gunk from the road. I too was amazed that it hadn't rubbed all the way though any of the wires. I took a really good look at all of it after I got the gunk off.

No problem on the post. I'm glad to help after all the help I got from you guys.

Shawn
 

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I had thought it was rubbed though too, but that was just black gunk from the road. I too was amazed that it hadn't rubbed all the way though any of the wires. I took a really good look at all of it after I got the gunk off.

No problem on the post. I'm glad to help after all the help I got from you guys.

Shawn
So how would you rate the whole procedure? Easy or difficult for a "wrench" but not a professional?
 

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So how would you rate the whole procedure? Easy or difficult for a "wrench" but not a professional?
Well I had trouble with the diagnosis of the electrical on the system. Sfair and SteveJB helped me out with all that.

As for the actual mechanical part of it, removing nuts and bolts was simple. Before you remove the pulley, be sure and note where the belt adjusters on the rear wheel are and that will help alot.

I talked to a shop about prices, they would not have put a Rick's stator in, opting for the 400 dollar stock stator instead, and labor would been around 200 dollars or more so it would have been at least 600 bucks not including oil, filter, and gasket.

I did the whole thing myself for about 185 dollars or so.

I'm not Joe mechanic, so if I was able to pull it off, pretty much anybody else could. The only specialized tool involved was a torque wrench that was in inch-pounds. I got one at harbor freight for like 15 bucks.


Shawn
 

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stator

where can i find out how to check the stator. i looked on a couple of threads but did not see anything. i probable overlooked it
 

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