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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the exact procedure to check the stator output? I know the readings are 35 volt A/C at 4000 RPM but I do not know where to check it properly. I took it to Mountain Motor Sports of Marietta, Ga. with complaints of having to keep jump starting the bike and 6 months of factory warranty left and they wanted to charge me $85 diagnostic fee to check it out. I did upgrade the Kawasaki light bar bulb from 35 watt to 55 watt when this all started but the output should handle that without an issue.
The bike is a 2010 VN900BAF Vulcan Classic.
 

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1. Remove stator plug from regulator.
2. Label three white wires coming from stator "A", "B", and "C".
3. Start bike.
3. Take AC voltage readings between A and B, A and C, B and C.

Should be 54v AC at 3000rpm. for each.
 

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SFAIR u never cease to amaze me with your technical aptitude.Always look for your posts
+1 ON that statement....
Thanks SFAIR for not only having the technical aptitude, but, taking the time to share it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
+1 ON that statement....
Thanks SFAIR for not only having the technical aptitude, but, taking the time to share it.
Yes thank you very much for the help. I would like to add a few notes. I am a RV tech so I tried to test like an automotive system. With a midtronics electrical system tester. Battery test 12.64 V at 294 CCA, Starter voltage drop is 1.2 V. Alternator Output is 14.5 v at 12 amps at idle, but it drops down to 8 amps after a short time. When I turn my Kawy light bar on the amps drop to -3. When I first got the light bar it had 35 watt bulbs installed and I had to do the Tim Allen thing (more power) and installed 55 watt bulbs. The dealership said that the 55 watt bulbs where the cause but I don't see that small of an upgrade causing a dead battery issue. I only have the lights turned on when the bike is running.
 

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Alternator wattage rating is about 440w @ 5000rpm, but who runs at that speed. As rpm's drop, so will the power available.
What you want to do is conduct the test at the normal engine rpm that the bike turns when you are doing 30mph.
It is not unusual, with additional electrical load, for the battery to have to supplement power needs at idle.
But if at normal running speed the alternator cannot keep up, then it would require more investigation.
Which model of tester are you using?

Post back.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
For general testing (battery tester) Midtronic and it I’m not mistaken it’s the 3000 series, for more specific spot testing a Fluke 88 automotive meter. I’m riding the bike to work tomorrow and will do the test at speed and will post the readings after lunch.
 

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Below comes directly from the VN900 Manuel. Pics will not copy and paste.

•Start the engine, and note the voltage readings at various
engine speeds with the headlight turned on and
then turned off (To turn off the headlight, disconnect
the headlight connector on the headlight unit.). The
readings should show nearly battery voltage when the
engine speed is low, and, as the engine speed rises, the
readings should also rise. But they must be kept under
the specified voltage.
Charging Voltage
Connections
Tester Range
Tester (+) to Tester (–) to
Reading
25 V tester. DC Battery (+) Battery (–) 14.2 ∼ 15.2 V

Alternator Output Voltage
Tester Connections
Range Tester (+) to Tester (–) to
Reading
@3 000 rpm
250 V AC One white lead Another white lead 54 V


tester Connections
Range Tester (+) to Tester (–) to
Reading
×1 Ω One white lead Another white lead 0.11 ∼ 0.17 Ω
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Where is it I go to complain about my Dealership? I complained of dead battery issues multiple times and nothing was done, they just blamed it on my Kawi after market light bar. When I demanded they test my stator they wanted to charge me $85. The bike is 6 months old with 4000miles on it. Thanks to this group I was able to diagnose the problem (I will post all readings at the end after I vent). I have called the dealership (Mountain Motorsports of Marietta Ga.) and told them they have lost me as a customer and I will never tell anyone to use their services.
Before: amps to battery at idle with nothing on 2.4 amps, with high beam and turn signals -1.3 amps. At high idle (about 3000 rpm) -.5 amps with the lights on. Stator output at idle 16V AC. At high idle 61V AC. Found plug full of water, dry it out and add dielectric in connector and retest. AMPS to battery at idle 7.2 amps, with lights 3.5 amps including my Kawi light bar, at high idle 12 amps. Boy that took all of 15 minutes to diagnose and repair I need to go work at the dealership $85 for 15 minutes work I could live with that.
 

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You were showing the symtoms of losing one of the three phases, which is that under light load, the alternator can just keep up... but increase the load and it sags badly.

Good find on that!
 

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evol
I am interested for my own reference, did you us an inductive clamp for measuring the amperage? Was the connector the one at the rectifier behind the front wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
evol
I am interested for my own reference, did you us an inductive clamp for measuring the amperage? Was the connector the one at the rectifier behind the front wheel?
Yes I used a Fluke inductive clamp and yes it was at the rectifier. Also dealership called me last night (the shop forman) and offered to make it rite. I'll have to wait and see.
 

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Rectifire location, and connector problems.

evol
I am interested for my own reference, did you us an inductive clamp for measuring the amperage? Was the connector the one at the rectifier behind the front wheel?
Evol
Thank You for bringing this potential problem to us. I will inspect the connector on my Vulcan for issues. Enclosed is a photo from the service manual of the rectifier located behind the front wheel.
 

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