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Does anyone know the exact procedure to check the stator output? I know the readings are 35 volt A/C at 4000 RPM but I do not know where to check it properly. I took it to Mountain Motor Sports of Marietta, Ga. with complaints of having to keep jump starting the bike and 6 months of factory warranty left and they wanted to charge me $85 diagnostic fee to check it out. I did upgrade the Kawasaki light bar bulb from 35 watt to 55 watt when this all started but the output should handle that without an issue.
The bike is a 2010 VN900BAF Vulcan Classic.
 

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hook a voltmeter up to your battery,should get a reading of aleast 12v 12.5 12.65 start your bike up and check volt meter again,should be showing roughly 13.5v run the throttle at various rpms and hold look at your volt meter,if its dropping then you may have a faulty stator,just got thru doing this on a yamaha 660 quad that had a plow, heated grips,plug for electric vest,and flashing caution lights, the stator was not wound up to handle the extra volts. got a higher capacity stator from ricks stators and problem solved.now not sure if thats your problem but it very well could be.just a suggestion.plus $85 to check that sounds a little high.
 

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Where is it I go to complain about my Dealership? I complained of dead battery issues multiple times and nothing was done, they just blamed it on my Kawi after market light bar. When I demanded they test my stator they wanted to charge me $85. The bike is 6 months old with 4000miles on it. Thanks to this group I was able to diagnose the problem (I will post all readings at the end after I vent). I have called the dealership (Mountain Motorsports of Marietta Ga.) and told them they have lost me as a customer and I will never tell anyone to use their services.
Before: amps to battery at idle with nothing on 2.4 amps, with high beam and turn signals -1.3 amps. At high idle (about 3000 rpm) -.5 amps with the lights on. Stator output at idle 16V AC. At high idle 61V AC. Found plug full of water, dry it out and add dielectric in connector and retest. AMPS to battery at idle 7.2 amps, with lights 3.5 amps including my Kawi light bar, at high idle 12 amps. Boy that took all of 15 minutes to diagnose and repair I need to go work at the dealership $85 for 15 minutes work I could live with that.
 

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Does anyone know the exact procedure to check the stator output? I know the readings are 35 volt A/C at 4000 RPM but I do not know where to check it properly. I took it to Mountain Motor Sports of Marietta, Ga. with complaints of having to keep jump starting the bike and 6 months of factory warranty left and they wanted to charge me $85 diagnostic fee to check it out. I did upgrade the Kawasaki light bar bulb from 35 watt to 55 watt when this all started but the output should handle that without an issue.
The bike is a 2010 VN900BAF Vulcan Classic.
You most likely have a 3-phase stator like most Jap bikes do.
You check the voltage with the bike running between output leads 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3.
The voltage should be the same at the same RPMS between each winding.
If it isn't, your stator's no good. and will need to be replaced.
If it's bad, an aftermarket stator might yield you more juice from the alternator BUT, you'll be replacing the regulator/rectifier as well.
This is an EXCELLENT/MUST READ article on the shunt type rectifiers, which are the OEM-provided units on our bikes.
If you find your alternator's doing as it should, you might consider replacing the rectifier.
Copy and paste:

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

HTH,
Rok
 

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I assume that you've got an AUTOZONE in your area. Give them a call, and ask them if they could do a voltage output test on your motorcycle. All you have to do is have your bike a bit above idle, and have them check the volts at the battery with a multi-meter. Or you could buy a $10 multi-meter at most auto parts stores/Walmart/Home Depot/Lowes stores and do this yourself. A multi-meter is a great thing to have in your toolbox. You can check A/C or D/C currents, plus other stuff.
 
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