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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi Guys,

Bike: 2006 V2K Classic

Got an email from a vendor that indicated the speed sensor *connector* was near the drive sprocket (pulley I guess). Checked my service manual (wrong year book) and it looked like it was behind the left side cover.

Though I would ask where before I start taking off the wrong covers...

Thanks,
Woody
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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speed pick up sensor

Though I would ask where before I start taking off the wrong covers...Thanks, Woody
wood'r, the speedo pick up sensor is located at the top/back of the transmission final drive gear housing, Right side cover. see pix.
this sensor counts the number of teeth on that final drive gear. Stock is 50t and N.am skoots are set for this. The euro gear set is 48t final drive, correction is 2 tooth-or 4% correction of speedo read out. plus more top end at less rpm.
There is a washer/spacer on the stock pickup that has to be removed to move the sensor closer to the new euro gear so it can read the teeth. its a bugger to get to. if you are looking to remove this sensor, I will document a simpler method. lemme know. out, ponch
 

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I would like to know the simpler method of removing the speed sensor. I am looking at doing the euro gears so any input would be great.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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drill baby, drill

I would like to know the simpler method of removing the speed sensor. I am looking at doing the euro gears so any input would be great.
bh, check another thread "EuroGears" for more details. here are some pix. I drilled out a hole in the electric box to get an allen wrench in and loosen that keeper bolt on the speedo sensor. Otherwise you will have to remove ALL the electronics and boxes to get this kind of access to that little item. bunch O work.
If you haven't got your gears yet, try www.babbittsonline.com they have Kaw parts at discount. I paid about $200 w/gaskets for the set.
#16085-0027 44t gear = $89.81
#16085-0033 48t gear = $89.81
#11061-0017 gasket = $17.33
#11061-0018 gasket = $10.40
shipping = $15.83
no taxes
I got hung up getting the gears loose. Sfair piped in with his penny trick. it worked. but as usual, cost doubled. needed a second penny to retighten the new gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ponch,

Thanks for the words of wisdom. All I needed was to find the connector. Was easy when I knew at which side to start (thanks for the pix). Believe I gonna give it up and get one of the speedo fixers. Tired of adding 10% then figuring how much I can steal ;).

Back from an afternoon cruise through the foothills with a small group. Weather was great and the trees are *just* beginning to get some color. I think it now might be Sunday siesta time!

Woody
 

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Poncho,
New to the forum here. Loved to see your effort in helping out with pics and all. Reminds me of the Yami 1100 forum I was involved in before purchasing
this beast.
Just wanted to tell you its appriciated much by guys like me.

Paul
 

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Got a side-bar type question on the speed sensor. It counts the number of teeth on the final drive gear as i understand from Woody's statement. Can anyone tell me if that sensor puts out normal or square type sine waves, and would it send 50 pulses per rev or another amount? I am guessing normal sines, given the setup, but i need to be sure. Also, which wire would carry the signal out of the sensor to the speedo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got a side-bar type question on the speed sensor. It counts the number of teeth on the final drive gear as i understand from Woody's statement. Can anyone tell me if that sensor puts out normal or square type sine waves, and would it send 50 pulses per rev or another amount? I am guessing normal sines, given the setup, but i need to be sure. Also, which wire would carry the signal out of the sensor to the speedo?
It all depends on where the "signal conditioner" is located. I have not put a 'scope on the line, but if it is like most of this type, the immediate output of the sensor would not be a square wave (distorted sine?). The output of the sensor typically feeds the signal conditionor which turns a not-so-square wave into a true square wave. That signal is then fed to other circuits that change the square wave frequency into a speed value, then displayed as an analog or digital readout. Since the initial signal conditioner can be built in to the sensor or performed externally, to be more specific, would need to examine the sensor signal with an oscilloscope or have a sensor datasheet.
Woody
 

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Got a side-bar type question on the speed sensor. It counts the number of teeth on the final drive gear as i understand from Woody's statement. Can anyone tell me if that sensor puts out normal or square type sine waves, and would it send 50 pulses per rev or another amount? I am guessing normal sines, given the setup, but i need to be sure. Also, which wire would carry the signal out of the sensor to the speedo?
I don't know what the sensor actually puts out, but to test the speedometer the service manual instructs to apply a 0 - 5V square wave, and that 1450Hz should produce about 60mph indication for a USA model.

By my measured observations the stock speedo reads about 10% fast yet the odometer is fairly accurate. So, if the underlying goal is to fix the speedo reading by altering the speed signal, I think doing so is likely to cause the odometer to read inaccurately/misrepresent mileage.
 

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Understood. Actually, not looking to change anything. Let me explain the idea. I am looking at adding a Rostra universal cruise control unit to my vn2000, (motor trike conversion). Most everything else about the install is pretty cut and dried, except the signal to sync the unit with. Plenty of mounting room and ways to run the actuator cable.

The unit has a minimum input of 2000 pulses per mile to operate. That precludes using a signal from the ignition, too slow. The signal from the speed sensor however would be well within the range, if it puts out 50 pulses per rev. All i would need to do is tap the signal return wire. Tech support at rostra said something about the sine wave acting differently on the unit depending on it's type, hence the second part of the question. Since the universal unit is mostly used on hotrod builds and custom builds, i am guessing that normal sine waves are what work best. Been too long since i studied electronics i am afraid.

Any thoughts on this idea would be greatly appreciated. I will post everything i do with the project so others can use the info if it works out. I know many people have remarked that they would like to have cruise on their vn's. There is room for it on the bike i am certain.
 
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