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Discussion Starter #1
I got v&h exhaust, pods and jetted carbs with 45k watt
Coils. I put ngk iridiums in it and they last like 50 miles. I just bought stock ngk plugs again but the question is should I gap them high because of the coils or should I leave them be? When I pull out the iridiums last time they looked like they spent a month in the fire pit. When I use regular plugs where tey don't burn as hot they tend to come out a little more oil soaked than burnt. Any help?
 

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Install the Kawasaki recommended standard plugs and then correct ay issues that plug readings are telling you to make.

Be for warned that a dual carbed 1500 with intake mods can be a tuning nightmare.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No kidding. Lol. I've never read a jap bike with a positive pod story.... But the po did it and I'm all set paying what I think a stock air setup would cost. Any good ideas to get me by? Maybe socking the filters or building a special intake setup??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got em. But before I made this post so I could find out if I should gap them differently before installing
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yea they are brand new. Bought em today. I just don't have time in life to do the 10 mile, and so on pull and check pull and check. I know she runs rich. Mains were upped to 140s but not sure if the spacers were put in or not. Motors being pulled this winter. I'd just like her to run somewhat decent until then.
 

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. I just don't have time in life to do the 10 mile, and so on pull and check pull and check.
Well, unfortunately, there is no other way to do it other than a dyno tune.
Tuning requires plug readings, fuel mileage, driveability and seat of the pants readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What is the procedure for spark plug checking? It uses a lot of oil. It's being torn out for seals and possibly rings. Bad oil blowby. New valve cover gasket while I'm there, a valve shim if I can find someone to do it, and I'm going to rebuild the carbs again while I got everything out.
 

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You forgot to mention how many miles on it.
How much oil does it use?
Does it smoke and if so, how much and when?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not sure how much or often. It's a lot though. It has 21k on it and it seems the harder I ride. The quicker she smokes. Friends say they can smell it behind me when I get on it... But it's when I'm at an idle and then take off that she clouds out. Oils kinda iffy, sometimes I go 2 months without adding, other times seems like I go through a qt a week
 

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Well, here is the rub. It is almost impossible to do plug readings on an engine that is burning oil, for obvious reasons. Also, if the engine is not up to snuff, tuning will be difficult and will not continue over to a fresh engine.

Here are some points for you to consider:

1. By your description, you have ring/cylinder/piston, or all of the above, wear. At that low mileage, it is unusual to encounter such unless some ill-conceived mods were performed or a catastrophic failure of some sort. For example, there might be a broken ring, but that certainly means a cylinder is scored.

2. It is really a waste of time and money to try and tune a worn engine.

3. You have to decide if you want to keep the bike and if you do, then do not spend one dime on it just yet.

4. Tear the engine down, clean all parts and then assess engine condition by checking all parts against Kawasaki specifications. The reason I say this is if you throw a set of rings into an engine that has too much cylinder taper or the rod big end is worn beyond specs., then the results will be poor and not meet expectations. Time and money down the drain.

5. Costs can easily spiral out of control and make the rebuild worth more than the entire bike very quickly.

And I am not mentioning any valve train, clutch, transmission, gaskets or other items that creep up to add to the costs.

Those are my thoughts, anyways, and I just hate throwing hard earned money down a sink hole! It is always good to formulate a plan ahead of time.

Post back with your thinking.
 
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