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Discussion Starter #1
How the heck do I get at the spark plugs on my vulcan 1700 classic lt??? Do I have to lift the tank? My owner's manual doesn't help. Thanks for any help. Sorry if it has been talked about before but the search doesn't work when using my android pad.
 

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The 1700's use a projected iridium tipped plug, a very good plug. Unless you have 30,000 miles on the skoot there is no real need to replace, or maybe even to inspect the plugs. I have replaced plugs with 22,000 miles on them and they did not need to be changed or even cleaned. The plug gap was still within specs.

But yes lifting the tank makes gettin to that rear plug whole bunches easier.

RACNRAY
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The 1700's use a projected iridium tipped plug, a very good plug. Unless you have 30,000 miles on the skoot there is no real need to replace, or maybe even to inspect the plugs. I have replaced plugs with 22,000 miles on them and they did not need to be changed or even cleaned. The plug gap was still within specs.

But yes lifting the tank makes gettin to that rear plug whole bunches easier.

RACNRAY
OK thanks. I was thinking down the road when I have to winterize the bike. Some people spray oil down the plug hole to coat the cylinders for the winter. Sounds like too much hassle for this model. I have to say so far it is a great bike. Do you know where I can get a shop type manual for it without paying a fortune? Clymer and Haynes don't have anything for this model.
 

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OK thanks. I was thinking down the road when I have to winterize the bike. Some people spray oil down the plug hole to coat the cylinders for the winter. Sounds like too much hassle for this model. I have to say so far it is a great bike. Do you know where I can get a shop type manual for it without paying a fortune? Clymer and Haynes don't have anything for this model.
The 1700's as most jap skoots nowadays do not have steel or cast iron cylinder sleeves, a nickel/silicone/carbide or a ceramic type coating is applied directly to the bore of the aluminum cylinder, these coatings do not rust or have corrosion problems. I have not heard of any of the northern peeps having any issue other than hydraulic valve adjuster bleed down during long term storage, but after runnin the engine the adjusters will fill up.

One idea is to use a "fogger" spray. In my drag racing days at the end of a race day we would spin the engine over with no ignition and spray fogger oil into each carb to prevent corrosion on rings, sleeves and valve seats. Race gas leaves no anti-corrosion coatings on internal engine components.

Do a search on the net, I am sure you will find a source for a manual. In my almos 37 years workin on skoots I have found the clymer/haynes manuals nowheres near as good as a genuaine factory service manual, they are worth the $$$$$.

RACNRAY
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. I did get a pdf version so I'm good to go! I do wish the spark plugs were less hidden but it is a great bike so what can a guy do? :)
 

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I changed my plugs at 50,000 km they LOOKED New, I am not going to look at them till at least another 80,000km if it is running good then I will run them longer
 
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