SOLVED 2008 KAWASAKI VN900 B CRUISER 5 cannot remove gas cap
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Joined
·
68 Posts
Spray some WD-40 in the key slot while inserting and turning the key several times. A small amount will not cause any fuel contamination.
Joined
·
682 Posts
Hi Waco,
- Like GSR stated some type of spray lube in the key receptacle should free it
- Also push down and release the cap several times. Then Push down while turning the key to see if that helps to release the latch.
Joined
·
2,582 Posts
I would suggest spraying some dry graphite lock lubricant in there first. WD-40 or any spray lube will leave a residue that will just collect dirt and grime. Dry graphite won't and is an excellent lock lubricant. If the graphite doesn't work, then try WD-40 or a spray lube.
Joined
·
14 Posts
Sorry for the delayed reply. Not being notified. Thank you all for the great help. Since the key does turn, I figure it is the uh .. protrusion at the bottom of the cap that is supposed to retract when turning the key. It just ain't retracting. I tried dry (Teflon) lube ... no luck .... but will give it more effort. WD-40 if that doesn't work. On the verge of panic. I am more optimistic with these suggestions. Thank you all. Will update soon.
EDIT: GOT IT!!
Good shot right down the key hole with Gun Flush, and some twisting back and forth with the key, and rigorous up and downs on the cap, and she came loose. Your suggestions (all of them) were very helpful. Thought I was going to have to drill the whole cap out. SOOO glad. These caps are hard to find. Thank you all again.
EDIT: GOT IT!!
Good shot right down the key hole with Gun Flush, and some twisting back and forth with the key, and rigorous up and downs on the cap, and she came loose. Your suggestions (all of them) were very helpful. Thought I was going to have to drill the whole cap out. SOOO glad. These caps are hard to find. Thank you all again.
Joined
·
111 Posts
Yeah my VN800 had a corroded filler cap when I got it. It was so bad that no lubricant helped. I had to brute force it open by inserting the key, then inserting a small flat tip screwdriver into the lock beside the key. After a few minutes working the screwdriver back and forth with the key I finally got it to break free. It had to be completely disassembled and cleaned to get it operational.
Joined
·
22 Posts
In the past I was informed by a lock man to never use WD40 or other type oil in a lock for the reason mentioned earlier, it will remain and collect dirt to give you problems later on. I was told to always use powdered graphite on locks.
Joined
·
8 Posts
Now that you have it off, might be time to replace. Here is a link to where I bought mine-doesn't reference Kawa 900, but it fit my 2008 Vulcan 900 classic lt perfect.https://www.amazon.com/Bruce-Shark-Yamaha-DragStar-1998-2017/dp/B07VQV1HK6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=bruce+%26+shark+gas+cap&qid=1656013353&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUTFZUVAzWDBWRkJPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODUzOTU0M09XQkU2NTNDNDdVUSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDEzNDM4MUtLRU9YTlZHQlNRSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
For $25 bucks, couldn't beat it. Looks exactly like oem.
For $25 bucks, couldn't beat it. Looks exactly like oem.
Joined
·
813 Posts
I'm not trying to create an argument or advocating just giving MY experience with this same issue.
I tried using the powered graphite and found it to be not effective and became a gummy mess inside the lock for the cap from absorbing moisture.
I use WD40 because it cleaned all that black crap out of the lock. Does it collect some dirt from time to time yes it does. But you can feel when it starts to get sticky and know when to do it again. I have to do it once or twice a riding season, and i do it before winter storage.
The graphite only worked for a couple of weeks before I had to flush it out.
This was just my experience others may have had a different experience and that's fine they can use what ever they want.
The problem with these caps is not the caps themselves its the fuel
The ethanol they put in the fuel causes build up on the lock components and causes the key to be hard to turn and the locking wedges to be hard to pull in. You can remove the rubber seal and clean with brake parts cleaner as well to get the deposits off. A new cap will eventually have the same issues..
Try a few different ways till you find one that works for YOU and go with it. as long as its not damaging your cap or paint if it works that is all that matters
I tried using the powered graphite and found it to be not effective and became a gummy mess inside the lock for the cap from absorbing moisture.
I use WD40 because it cleaned all that black crap out of the lock. Does it collect some dirt from time to time yes it does. But you can feel when it starts to get sticky and know when to do it again. I have to do it once or twice a riding season, and i do it before winter storage.
The graphite only worked for a couple of weeks before I had to flush it out.
This was just my experience others may have had a different experience and that's fine they can use what ever they want.
The problem with these caps is not the caps themselves its the fuel
The ethanol they put in the fuel causes build up on the lock components and causes the key to be hard to turn and the locking wedges to be hard to pull in. You can remove the rubber seal and clean with brake parts cleaner as well to get the deposits off. A new cap will eventually have the same issues..
Try a few different ways till you find one that works for YOU and go with it. as long as its not damaging your cap or paint if it works that is all that matters
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Join the discussion
