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Hi all, I have a 2011 VN1700C and am trying to figure out if the following slip-on's will work on my bike. Does anyone know what size outlet we have on the exhaust pipes? I'm handing enough to do the work I think but don't want to disassemble the factory one just to measure and find out these don't fit or can't be retrofit. I'm REALLY tight on $$ and need more sound so people here in crazy So-Cal can hear me when I'm riding in traffic. I already cutout the first baffle in the stock pipes thanks to another thread on this forum. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Here's some info on the pipes:

LENGTH: 29-1/2"

OUTLET: 3-1/2"

TIPS: AROUND 4" OPENING

INLET IS 1-7/8" DIAMETER TO FIT 1-3/4" DIAMETER OUTLET
***Fits all 1995-2016 Touring models - direct slip-on***
(Electra Glide, Street Glide, Road Glide, Ultra Glide, Road King, FLHT/X/R, FLTR) with stock or 1 3/4" head pipes

Thanks fellow Vulcan members!
 

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psyclone,

If you are trying to save money, you might as well do as much as you can to the stock mufflers.
With an extension on your 1.25" diameter hole drill you can remove the second baffle plate from each muffler and see how that sounds.
Mine sounded pretty good at this point (I also had a Classic with the stock shotgun mufflers).

If you want even louder you can core out the catalytic material just behind the second baffle plates.

For maximum sound, remove the mufflers (5 minute job with simple tools) and drill out the third baffle plate from the inlet end. You will want to remove them anyway to remove any drill shavings or baffle plates that didn't come out the "easy way". At this stage you will have effectively gutted your mufflers and you will have relatively "straight thru" flow.

Trying to get a muffler made for another bike to fit is likely going to involve welding or frankensteining pieces of tubing and hanger brackets.
Why go thru the trouble when you can get similar results with some simple hand tools? The stock mufflers will still look good and won't look bastardized.

Note: Debaffling or Aftermarket Slip-ons for the 1700 Classic will generally cause noticeable decel popping without proper fuel management or an ECU Reflash...but, if you want to get noticed, some loud decel popping will definitely do the trick ;)
 

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OP, if I were you I'd follow Vulcan Hammer's suggestions. I drilled out the two baffles on mine and got a good sound. But, loud pipes aren't going to do that much to help you be seen in traffic. Do a search on the website and you'll see differing opinions but I believe you're wasting money trying to be heard and seen by installing loud mufflers. You'd be better off buying a loud horn. IMO. Good luck.
 

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If the hanger brackets don't line up exactly you are talking about a bunch of fab work that if you can't do it your self is not cheap.

Loud pipes are just annoying to pedestrians and your fellow riders, and make wildlife skittish. Four wheeler's with their windows up and stereos turned up still have no idea you are on the planet.

Light bars and brake light modulators will go much farther toward making your presence known to lazy distracted drivers.
 

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If the hanger brackets don't line up exactly you are talking about a bunch of fab work that if you can't do it your self is not cheap.

Loud pipes are just annoying to pedestrians and your fellow riders, and make wildlife skittish. Four wheeler's with their windows up and stereos turned up still have no idea you are on the planet.

Light bars and brake light modulators will go much farther toward making your presence known to lazy distracted drivers.
+1

I've done the two plate removal and the sound is just loud enough to not annoy but loud enough to turn heads
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay, I'm thinking I need to get a longer extension for the 1-1/4" bit and take out the 2nd set....I bought a 12" I think for the first one, do you know how much further in the 2nd is? Or should I pull them off and gut the cats as well as the plate on the inlet side??? I don't mind the decel pop if it's not harming my engine by modifying the exhaust?? Do I have to get a programmer/chip/ECU flash if I continue boring out the baffles? I ordered a light bar and plan on installing that this weekend. Any ideas for a bargain brake light modulator? I appreciate all of your input....Looking forward to any/all ideas to include HID, Horn, ????
 

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psyclone,

I believe that the second set of plates are about 6 inches behind the first, but if you have already drilled out the first set, you should be able to see the second set and measure yourself with a dowel or broomstick. The corrugated cat material is just behind this, so don't drill too far just yet.

Take it in stages and see if you like it. Going further is up to you.

The decel popping has actually always been there and doesn't hurt your engine. With the plates drilled, it just means that the mufflers are not "muffling" it anymore...you just didn't hear it before when the mufflers were undrilled.

You don't have to get a fuel manager or reflash, but many do just to add a little more fuel to prevent the popping. The general rule is that you don't really "need" a fuel manager unless you are changing BOTH the exhaust AND intake, in order to prevent a serious lean condition. Several 1700 owners drilled out the complete muffler without a fuel manager and have not damaged their engines.

Note: Based on what I have read on this forum, the Ivan's ECU reflash definitely seems the way to go and you would not need a dyno run to get it mapped later!...so it could actually work out to be cheaper than a Power Commander V and a few hours of dyno time.
I had a Bully/EJK which helped with the popping and improved performance, but it took a lot of fiddling to find the right settings. However, for a little more, you could get the ECU reflash and greatly improved performance across the board (true plug-and-play!).

So, save your money! Do a little exhaust drilling in stages. Then get the performance mod that makes the most difference...the ECU reflash.
 

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Okay, I'm thinking I need to get a longer extension for the 1-1/4" bit and take out the 2nd set....I bought a 12"
You should be able to drill the second plate out with your 12".
The head of my drill fit in the hole I drilled with a 1 3/8" hole saw.
I drilled the pilot hole then reset the extension bit so it was 1/2" into the drill head and cut the second second plate away.
 

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You should be able to drill the second plate out with your 12".
The head of my drill fit in the hole I drilled with a 1 3/8" hole saw.
I drilled the pilot hole then reset the extension bit so it was 1/2" into the drill head and cut the second second plate away.
Those appear to be voyager pipes...I'm fairly certain that the same does not apply for the extreme angle of the slash-cut shotgun pipes on the 1700 Classic.

The chuck of the drill would bugger up the slash-cut ends if the extension is not long enough. I know with my Classic, only a 1-1/4" hole saw would fit the inside tube and that I used a 12" extension along with another extension at least 8" long in order to reach the second baffle plate.
 

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Those are Voyager pipes and you are right.
My bad.
 

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Those are Voyager pipes and you are right.
My bad.
Sorry, I am likely the one in the wrong! The OP wrote that he has a 2011 VN1700C which I assumed was a Classic. That model number is actually the Nomad with dual exhaust, but I think that the 2011 did have slash cut ends...nowhere as severe as the slash cuts on the Classic, however, so Archer2's hole drilling suggestions may still work.

That being the case, I was also wrong about how easy the mufflers are to remove compared to the Classic, and you cannot simply drill out the third baffle plate from the inlet end on both mufflers. On the Nomad, like the Voyager and Vaquero, you can only drill out the third baffle plate from the inlet end on the right side muffler. The longer, bent connecting pipe on the left side muffler prevents access to the third baffle plate. You can only access the third baffle plate on the left muffler if you are willing to cut the bent connecting pipe and then weld it back on afterwards.

Again, sorry for making stupid assumptions...
 

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Different model, but I went with a 17" glass pack from a car for mine and had it welded on. Then I used the original mounting point and rednecked it for the time being until I can get back to working on it again. I just measured the outer diameter of the exit on the headers and matched the inlet on the glass pack.

The glass pack cost $15 and $5 for the paint.
 

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Different model, but I went with a 17" glass pack from a car for mine and had it welded on. Then I used the original mounting point and rednecked it for the time being until I can get back to working on it again. I just measured the outer diameter of the exit on the headers and matched the inlet on the glass pack.

The glass pack cost $15 and $5 for the paint.
Thanks all...Yes, It's a 2011 Nomad with straight not slash cut ends so the pics archer posted look just like mine. I used and 1-1/4" bit because it seemed to fit just right. 1-3/8" might have but it looks pretty clean inside and not sure it would have made it. More importantly, I bought another extension and took the plunge to drill out the 2nd plates. Sounds better for sure. I rode to work this morning and it honestly seemed to run better??? Still not that loud but from what I've heard the 2 into 1 into 2 on the 2011's were quieter again than previous years??? Anyway, I'm okay with it. Definitely better sound than stock. I have an little problem though, The right side "disc" that should have been in the tailpipe after getting through it wasn't anywhere to be seen??? The left one was easy to get by using a flashlight and retrieval tool. The right, disappeared???? WTF? Is there a space between the cat and the pipe where it may have fallen into?? If so, is it going to hurt anything? I can't tell if it's making a noise when I "get on it" or not...I think my OCD hears something but can't be sure....Thanks all
 

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I have an little problem though, The right side "disc" that should have been in the tailpipe after getting through it wasn't anywhere to be seen??? The left one was easy to get by using a flashlight and retrieval tool. The right, disappeared???? WTF? Is there a space between the cat and the pipe where it may have fallen into?? If so, is it going to hurt anything? I can't tell if it's making a noise when I "get on it" or not...I think my OCD hears something but can't be sure....Thanks all
Yes, the plate can fall into the little space between the CAT material and where the central core pipe ends. I had one plate fall into this zone, and like you, I "thought" that it was rattling there. Depending on how the plates were drilled out and if it was left in the muffler, a few 1700 owners noted a slight whistling on decel, myself included. Since removing the offending plate, the whistling stopped.

You might be able to fish it out with a telescopic, articulated shop magnet, but the only way I could get mine out was by removing the muffler. Thankfully, your right side muffler is the easier of the two to remove. Then you may be able to shake the plate out.

I had hold the muffler just right and fish mine out with a piece of coat hanger wire with a slight hook on the end. With the outlet of the muffler facing upwards, shake the muffler until the plate can be seen sitting on the cat material. Then you should be able to fish out the plate.
 

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Those appear to be voyager pipes...I'm fairly certain that the same does not apply for the extreme angle of the slash-cut shotgun pipes on the 1700 Classic.

The chuck of the drill would bugger up the slash-cut ends if the extension is not long enough. I know with my Classic, only a 1-1/4" hole saw would fit the inside tube and that I used a 12" extension along with another extension at least 8" long in order to reach the second baffle plate.
I think it was in 2011, they changed from the slash cut pipes to the tapered pipes. This was done more for a quieter sound than anything else I believe.
 

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I drilled the first 2 out on my 2012 Nomad which sounded nice however managed to score a pair of V & Hines on a buy & sell page at a really good price. They are loud but IMHO they also increased the overall performance.
 

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Yeah, going for loud pipes in the belief that it will make you all the more safe on busy streets is only gonna give you a false, and therefore dangerous, sense of security.

Loud pipes are just annoying to pedestrians and your fellow riders, and make wildlife skittish. Four wheeler's with their windows up and stereos turned up still have no idea you are on the planet.
While for the most part, this is true, I have heard a bike approaching from behind before while driving. And I was doing 75 down the interstate in my truck, windows partway down with LOTS of wind noise, and the stereo cranked to somewhere slightly above the level of a KISS concert.

Light bars and brake light modulators will go much farther toward making your presence known to lazy distracted drivers.
Actually, I suspect that the light solutions mentioned above would not help much either. The reason is that drivers nowdays are so distracted by everything except what they are supposed to be doing, i.e. driving, you could be driving a day glow orange firetruck with every light flashing brighter than downtown Hiroshima and a dozen clowns dancing on top, and the cager will still slam into you, saying that he just didn't "see you". My personal recommendation is be very observant to what is going on around you, watching for the idiot cagers who are too busy texting or spamming Facebook while barreling through a busy intersection. Also, going ATGATT will help protect your body in the event that the one cager who truly seems to want to send you to St. Peter gets past your watchful eye and nails ya.
 
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