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The video would definitely help, it’s also been suggested to me by some real gear heads to get a cheap mechanic’s stethoscope to help pinpoint where the sound is coming from.
 

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"Manila Gorilla"
2008 Vulcan Classic 1600
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
I do have a mechnics stethoscope, likely most of what I'd need to really tear into the engine as I rebuild car engines. But, I always try the easiest solution first. So in this case, that'll be the seafoam and synthetic oil. If that doesn't help, I'll grab the stethoscope and post up a vid, try to pinpoint what the noise is. I'm not horribly concerned, because as I said the bike rides great. No loss oc power or anything, but the mechanic in me also wont let me completely ignore it, so trying small things to see if I can improve it.
 

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If you do engine rebuilds you’re well ahead of me lol. I’m mechanically inclined and capable but I don’t have a good place to do any major work living in the city. For me the cam chain tensioners were a $100 repair to save my engine.
 

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"Manila Gorilla"
2008 Vulcan Classic 1600
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Lol yeah, I rebuild engines in my free time. Thats the easy stuff. Professionally I am a Field service engineer. I travel around the country troubleshooting/repairing/rebuilding CNC milling machines. Those have to hold am accuracy of 3-4 microns usually. Thats a good call on those tensioners though, thatll be the first place I look thanks for the heads up.
 

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Happy to help,
I too am an engineer, but I’m in the telecommunications field. The mindset required to do the job keeps your wheels turning. The only downside is much of what you engineer is virtual. So I like the MC stuff because it’s something tangible and it gives me new problems to try to solve.
 

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Quick notes on oil and "noise:"
Do use any motorcycle synthetic oil. Do not use any oil marketed for automobiles. I use Amsoil Metric oil. A word about the "noise," The Kawasaki 1600 engine has a valve adjuster, and if the wrong oil has been used it may need cleaning. In this case, Seafome in the oil may do the trick. I would try it and if it doesn't improve get a shop service manual and clean it, or take it to a motorcycle mechanic. It is not a difficult task.
Ride Safe
 

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"Manila Gorilla"
2008 Vulcan Classic 1600
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Hey guys I have a video, how do I post it here?
 

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"Manila Gorilla"
2008 Vulcan Classic 1600
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I think I figured it out, hopefully this works.

 

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"Manila Gorilla"
2008 Vulcan Classic 1600
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Anything sound abnormal?
 

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Honestly that doesn’t sound terrible but not having a “before” vid makes it harder to tell.
 

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"Manila Gorilla"
2008 Vulcan Classic 1600
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
This is the before vid lol, so not horrible, thats a good sign.
 

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Quick notes on oil and "noise:"
Do use any motorcycle synthetic oil. Do not use any oil marketed for automobiles.
Er, wot? Synthetic oil will not hurt a bike. I've been using it one bike for about 35 years - when do the negative effects show up? :) In addition, a huge percentage of the world-wide wet-clutch motorcycling community use automobile oils, typically diesel oils.
 

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"Manila Gorilla"
2008 Vulcan Classic 1600
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Yeah I've been reading a lot of guys like running Rotella T6. I run rotella in my truck, pretty good stuff. I'll go with the mobile synthetic on the bike though.
 

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"Manila Gorilla"
2008 Vulcan Classic 1600
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125 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
I mean, it wasn't an oil topic initially but I had questions lol. Personally I appreciate the advice and the friendly conversation.
 
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