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Discussion Starter #1
Walking by my bike in the garage yesterday I found a nasty surprise in my back tire. A screw is in the sidewall and I'm not sure if any damage has been done to the tube or not. My first thought was to not try and remove it and drive to the dealership and replace the tire. I don't like any kind of damage to a tire. But I have no experience with damaged motorcycle tires. What do you guys think I should do?
 

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Living The Dream
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Me personally I would remove the tire and take it to shop for replacement. But I have the means and the equipment to do so. I live 25+ miles from any shop, and would not chance the interstate driving speeds.

Your case may be different, slow town driving for instance. If tire is still inflated, and you can keep your speeds and bike lean down in corners, you may make it just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Deputy, I have a garage and a jack but I have no instructions on rear tire removal and have never attempted it before. Got anything that could help a noob?
 

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The wheel isnt hard to remove, doesnt look like shaft drive, dont see a disc, guessing it an 800. Back off rear brake adjuster,remove that nut. Loosen lock nuts, then adjusting nuts on the chain adjusters. Remove axle nut ,then jack bike up just enough to take pressure of the axle and slide it out. Jack bike up enoug to get wheel out from under fender, removing the chain as slack permits. Watch for the spacers to fall out, the axel goes through them. Make sure you see how they come out, which side and how oriented, think only one has a taper on one side, make sure it goes back in the same way. You can also slip the rear brake rod out of the arm as you remove tire from bike. When putting back on just reverse these instructions. I usually also remove the speedo cable but you dont have to, just pull the backing plate, with shoes, out of wheel once it clears frame. There is a small allen head bolt just under where cable enters wheel that holds it in. Before tightening the axle when installing, make sure the speedo drive is engaed right, not doing so tends to break speedo cables and/or bending the drive causing speedo to stop working.
 

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Didnt see a rotor, so guessed 800, process still very close except for the brake. Should be 2 bolts holding the caliper to its mount. After reinstalling the brake caliper and everything is tight, pump your rear brake a couple times to readjust it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
What kind of jack do you guys use for a job like this? Normally when I change my oil I just use a plain old craftsman floor jack with a 1x8 over the top of it and lift on the frame between the tires in a perpendicular method. But this is not a stable method for getting off the floor.

I also bought a "motorcycle jack" from cycle gear: http://www.cyclegear.com/CycleGear/Accessories/Stands/Lift-Stands/brand/LARIN/Motorcycle-ATV-Lift/p/36381_00000

But I'm either not understanding how to use it or it's a POS. I was trying to use it the same way as my floor jack but it's not long enough to reach across both frame bars.
 

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Living The Dream
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What kind of jack do you guys use for a job like this? Normally when I change my oil I just use a plain old craftsman floor jack with a 1x8 over the top of it and lift on the frame between the tires in a perpendicular method. But this is not a stable method for getting off the floor.

I also bought a "motorcycle jack" from cycle gear: http://www.cyclegear.com/CycleGear/Accessories/Stands/Lift-Stands/brand/LARIN/Motorcycle-ATV-Lift/p/36381_00000

But I'm either not understanding how to use it or it's a POS. I was trying to use it the same way as my floor jack but it's not long enough to reach across both frame bars.
Funny you should ask, I just sent my cousin this info this morning. me personally I like to use a wheel chock, which holds the bike upright. I then can slide my Craftsman motor cycle jack lift under it where I need it to be for whatever my project is. These are what I purchased. The chock can also be trailer mounted for hauling the bike when needed. Bike can be strapped to lift when you get it where you want it for stability. I did a lot of research before purchasing both of these items. neither need any modification and work well with the 900.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950190000P

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CE0R7W/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh one more question. Are there any specific torque values on any of the bolts I need to know about?

Thanks everybody.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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Walking by my bike in the garage yesterday I found a nasty surprise in my back tire. A screw is in the sidewall and I'm not sure if any damage has been done to the tube or not. My first thought was to not try and remove it and drive to the dealership and replace the tire. I don't like any kind of damage to a tire. But I have no experience with damaged motorcycle tires. What do you guys think I should do?
mw, looks like one of those skin pearcings thats all the rage with the tattood kids today. that screw just barely went into the sidewall and you can see the tip emerge in the whitewall. It is totally outside of your chicken strip zone and I bet it doesnt come anywhere near the belts on this tire.
Back that screw out and see if it penetrated anything and still holds air. I bet it didnt. I would take a tube of rubber cement and squirt it in both ends of that hole just to seal up the rubber. let it set. ride it with caution and see how it holds up. over time and miles you will come to trust it. you got you a cruiser there and probably ride it with some sense of sanity, ie slower and careful? that tire will go the distance.
Iv ridden hard on much worse tires with complete and multiple plugs than what your showing and never had an issue. its not luck, I pay attention to my machines. just not afraid to use them. Now your... Im gonna hear from all the ..leave off the name calling.. that you are gambling with your life to ride on a tire thats been comprimised. If your so concerned about your life and the equipment you trust it to.. why are you riding a mc in the first place? but then its your dime. ponchout
 

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What kind of jack do you guys use for a job like this? Normally when I change my oil I just use a plain old craftsman floor jack with a 1x8 over the top of it and lift on the frame between the tires in a perpendicular method. But this is not a stable method for getting off the floor.

I also bought a "motorcycle jack" from cycle gear: http://www.cyclegear.com/CycleGear/Accessories/Stands/Lift-Stands/brand/LARIN/Motorcycle-ATV-Lift/p/36381_00000

But I'm either not understanding how to use it or it's a POS. I was trying to use it the same way as my floor jack but it's not long enough to reach across both frame bars.
Funny you should ask, I just sent my cousin this info this morning. me personally I like to use a wheel chock, which holds the bike upright. I then can slide my Craftsman motor cycle jack lift under it where I need it to be for whatever my project is. These are what I purchased. The chock can also be trailer mounted for hauling the bike when needed. Bike can be strapped to lift when you get it where you want it for stability. I did a lot of research before purchasing both of these items. neither need any modification and work well with the 900.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950190000P

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CE0R7W/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought both of those items from Harbor Freight for less :(

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/motorcycle-stand-wheel-chock-97841.html#.Uydsq_ldUcA

can't find the jack on their site but it's exactly the same as others.

for the 900 the jack "runners" are just a bit too short for the rear part of the frame to lift, the frame wants to "walk" off the edge. try to stand the bike straight up (may need help or front wheel stand/chock) and you can play with positioning.

There was a post on here about someone using C-channel metal to lay over the runners and make the contact area larger to hold it.
 

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BOTM Winner, December 2013
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like ponch said, back that screw out of there check for leaks and ride on !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I appreciate the links to the jacks guys but I gotta say I don't think those are going to work on a 2012. I don't know if you've seen under one but the frame setup sucks. The engine block drops below the frame all over the place and I really don't think I should be jacking up the bike not by the frame and it sure as hell won't be stable. I'm going to venture to Sears and then Harbor Freight to see if I can find an alternate solution for raising this monster.

I want to be able to remove the tire before I test to see if it will go flat when I pull out the screw.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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The engine block drops below the frame all over the place and I really don't think I should be jacking up the bike not by the frame and it sure as hell won't be stable.
mw, consider look and see if you can fit a 2x2 or ? Along side the frame that the lift can get under and clear yor motor..?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That's exactly what I was thinking poncho. I did some looking around and bought a 1x8 at Lowes. I got a few extras and some jack stands at harbor freight. We'll see how this goes.
 

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meatwad, a 2012 is the same as a 2006-2013. yes the engine hangs below the frame in one spot but I've been able to avoid lifting by positioning the jack around it.

you can notch out the 1x* or 2x* for the frame rail to sit in and then use the jack to lift. but keep in mind the more you add to the bottom the less room to put the jack under the bike
 

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Living The Dream
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I bought both of those items from Harbor Freight for less :(

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/motorcycle-stand-wheel-chock-97841.html#.Uydsq_ldUcA

can't find the jack on their site but it's exactly the same as others.

for the 900 the jack "runners" are just a bit too short for the rear part of the frame to lift, the frame wants to "walk" off the edge. try to stand the bike straight up (may need help or front wheel stand/chock) and you can play with positioning.

There was a post on here about someone using C-channel metal to lay over the runners and make the contact area larger to hold it.
I purchased the craftman because it had the optimum height to get under the bike, and the lift rails need no modifications. It's plug and play for the 900. If it is to be used at the spot where the motor hangs under the frame I simply cut 2 pieces of 1x4 to put under the frame at those points. Done deal, cheaper is not always better! If you have to go and modify something that is brand new, what is that time worth to you? Me personally would rather spend that time being productive, to get the work done sooner.
 

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With the tire, I am with Ponch on this one, back her out, seal it up, see if it will hold air (it may not have even went all the way in to the tire), and ride. Nothing wrong with the better safe than sorry, but I feel some take it too far.

As for the jack, I have not advice to offer. I use a regular floor jack with a 1x decking board. Then I take a chunk of a 6x6 and put it under the frame on the opposite side of the jack. Then lift the bike off the stand and rock it up on the block then slide the jack under it. After I get it somewhat centered I lift it up, block up the jack side of the frame and rock the bike back and forth, then lift some more until I get to my desired height. Sure a motorcycle jack would be easier, but I make do on a lot of stuff. I am cheap.
 

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Living The Dream
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I would have to agree as well, after reading all these responses. If tire is holding air now then chances are everything is fine. Fill the hole and ride on!
 
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