Just got done installing the Scootworks front pulley today. I decided to install it based on all of the positive reviews it got on this fourm. I ordered it from Meancycles and recieved it within a weeks time. The install was pretty straight foward, but I think it does take some technicial know how, but not much. The only Pain in the butt part was adjusting the belt to the correct tenison. I do not have a belt gauge, but would recommend it. The exhaust pipes do not need to come off to remove the cotter pin to lossen the rear axle nut. Just some patience and long reach needle nose pliers will take care of it just fine. Just remember to reinstall it. The Original crank pulley nut was VERY tight, if done by hand you will need someone to sit on the bike and squezze the front AND rear brakes, but just remeber to bend the lock washer flat first. I found a Hammer and screwdriver makes quick easy work of that, and to rebend it when the new pulley is installed I found a pair of channel lock pliers very effective to bend it back. To keep the belt aligned correctly I took a measurment of how far the belt was from the outer lip of the stock front pulley. My measurment was .028" I used a feeler blade to measure it, when I installed the new pulley and started to tighten the belt I used the same feller blade to keep the belt at the same distance from the outer ridge of the pulley. I put everything back together and went for a very slow ride up the street. I heard a grinding noise almost right away, took the pulley covers back off and found the new pulley hitting the bottom right hand side bolt boss. I seen the marks it made, got the dremmel out and grinded some away, noise is now gone. Second road test cam a different noise. Found I had the belt to tight, I knida thought I did because it was harder to move the bike by foot when in nuetral, So I removed the cotter pin again, lossened the axle nut, and lossened up the belt a tad. Third road test, noise gone, but came back at a higher speed. So I went and lossened it again. Did this 4 Times before I got it right, so this was the pain in the butt part because I was to cheap to but a gauge. But after it is all said and done the belt noise is pretty much back to wear it was when stock(mine always had some belt noise) and it is not loud. Only can hear it when the clutch is pulled in when coasting or decell, But when cruising,accell, or decell you really cannot hear it. I used a verner caliper to adjust the rear wheel. I put the end of the caliper on the flat end of the rear adjuster bolt, and the depth end sat agaisnt the 17mm head adjuster nut(remove the 14mm lock nut). If you do this, you can almost get the rear wheel almost perfect from side to side rather then just eyeball it. I found on my bike .600" was perfect for belt tightness. After that i tighten the axle nut, then retighten the 17mm adjuster nut, then installed the 14mm lock nut. If I were to do it over again, I would not reinstall the cotter pin until all road test's and adjustments were done. As for the performance, It does help in a positive way. It seems you dont have to shift as much when cruising the neighborhood, and on the highway I used to get buzzness at 65MPH(70 on the speedo) and now the buzzness happens at 75MPH(which is correct on the speedo now). So it helped by giving me 10mph more relaxed cruising speed with almost no bottom end accel loss. I would say its worth it, but its no sixth gear, but every bit helps.