Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone used this in their 900? I bought my usual 10w-40 Amsoil yesterday but at 14.50 a quart it is getting a bit spendy. The place I buy my oil and filter also has this Schaeffer stuff. they have a 15w-40 and 20w-50 for motorcycles. I guess I would switch from 10w-40 to 15w-40. Online it is said it's the oldest oil company in the US. I have not ever heard of it and have searched the forum and it came back with no results. Does anybody have anything good or bad to say about it? I may switch back to regular oil if it keeps going up. I think it is all just Amsoil hype causing the price to rise like it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,029 Posts
Quite some time ago we used to factory fill the hydraulics on some of our machines with Schaeffer Micron Moly fluid. Never had any trouble using it but we tested other fluids like Mobil DTE et al that were less cost and worked just as well in our application so we changed.

No experience with their engine oils.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
124 Posts
I run Schaeffer in my transmission on my F-350. The shop that rebuilt it swears by it and he has used it for years. It's good stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
goto amsoil.com and sign up to be a "preferred customer" I think it's about "$20.00 per year but you get all Amsoil products at dealer costs and they have super fast shipping.Never heard of Schaeffer oil so can't comment on that. Amsoil does have a s/h fee,so the more you order the better..I get oil/filters.gas additive, antifreeze,etc. from them ......alot of local places only carry the oil and yes,it is expensive that way buying local
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
I have heard of Schaeffer's. I have not been able to find any documentation or comparisons, but the testimonials from car and diesel users that I can find runs about 60% for/40% against using Schaeffer's products. However, the specific concern I have is, after checking their website, they do not show a motorcycle specific oil; I'm in the camp for m/c only oils in a wet clutch engine.

There are those who say that motorcycles do not need an m/c only oil; others who use m/c only oils in their bikes. I've done both. Castrol GTX 10/40 conventional car in an old CB 550 changed every 1000 miles; no clutch slip. Valvoline conventional car 10/40 in a CM250 every 1000 miles; nasty clutch chatter. In the intervening years and seven bikes later (enduros, street, cruiser, scooters), my favorite m/c oil with zero clutch problems, chatters or slipping (changed every 8,000 to 15,000 miles).

Opinions about m/c only versus car, conventional versus synthetic, one brand over another, will vary and can become quite heated at times. Find what works well for your bike, what price point is comfortable for you and stick with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,620 Posts
If it doesn't have the JASO-MA rating I would't use it. Non-MC oils can cause a gradual but noticeable wearing of the clutch. In some cases it can even cause it to slip severely as soon as you change it! It isn't just re-bottled auto-oil.

It's your bike, of course, but if it's not MC specific or at least JASO-MA rated, I wouldn't do it..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
Has anyone used this in their 900? I bought my usual 10w-40 Amsoil yesterday but at 14.50 a quart it is getting a bit spendy. The place I buy my oil and filter also has this Schaeffer stuff. they have a 15w-40 and 20w-50 for motorcycles. I guess I would switch from 10w-40 to 15w-40. Online it is said it's the oldest oil company in the US. I have not ever heard of it and have searched the forum and it came back with no results. Does anybody have anything good or bad to say about it? I may switch back to regular oil if it keeps going up. I think it is all just Amsoil hype causing the price to rise like it is.
At $14.50 per qt., I can fully understand your feelings. That is higher than recommended retail and gives AMSOIL bad name where it is the Retailer trying to maximize profits.

goto amsoil.com and sign up to be a "preferred customer" I think it's about "$20.00 per year but you get all Amsoil products at dealer costs and they have super fast shipping.Never heard of Schaeffer oil so can't comment on that. Amsoil does have a s/h fee,so the more you order the better..I get oil/filters.gas additive, antifreeze,etc. from them ......alot of local places only carry the oil and yes,it is expensive that way buying local
WHY would you spend the money for a PC membership when you can buy AMSOIL through me ?

If it doesn't have the JASO-MA rating I would't use it. Non-MC oils can cause a gradual but noticeable wearing of the clutch. In some cases it can even cause it to slip severely as soon as you change it! It isn't just re-bottled auto-oil.

It's your bike, of course, but if it's not MC specific or at least JASO-MA rated, I wouldn't do it..
I agree. Although some automotive oils carry the proper API Ratings where you don't need the JASO, most people have no idea what to look for. API SG and/or SG/SH is what is necessarry. A higher API such as SH, SJ, SM MAY be used but, at that point must carry the JASO MA, better yet, MA 2 Rating.

Although those oils meet minimum requirements, I still recommend a Motorcycle Specific oil as most have specific additives for Motorcycles.


Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,158 Posts
Bob, nice to hear from you, I had to get away from my beloved Amsoil because here, on the East Coast of Canada.....20.99 a liter. TWENTY ONE DOLLARS a liter. I could not, on principal, pay that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
851 Posts
Want to save money on oil, I've been running Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 full synthetic for the last 20k. It is a diesel oil but meets all the ratings for mortorcycles, it runs about $23 or less a gallon and you can get it at most walmarts, farm&fleets and AutoZone's. I get the filter from a local kawi dealer, all together it runs me about $30 or less and had no problems with it. Rotella does make a 15W-40 but it's not recommended for our bikes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,158 Posts
15-40 isn't recommended? Why? Jaso rated...etc....and it's what I'm using now. What have u heard that I haven't?
The Rotella 10-30 isn't Jaso rated......I've spent WAY too much time researching this oil....lol.
5-40 (blue jug) is a pseudo-synthetic....Jaso-ma-rated. (WET CLUTCH COMPATIBLE)
15-40 (white jug) is a conventional(dino)oil....Jaso-ma- rated (WET CLUTCH COMPATIBLE)
10-30....NO Jaso-ma designation (Stay away)...lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
Bob, nice to hear from you, I had to get away from my beloved Amsoil because here, on the East Coast of Canada.....20.99 a liter. TWENTY ONE DOLLARS a liter. I could not, on principal, pay that.
As I keep saying.... I can't help that people keep wanting to pay retail when they don't have to.

And for you, if you live close enough to Missassauga, you can save even more.

Let me know when you are ready to buy at wholesale instead of Canadian Tire prices. Probably around 30-40% savings. Cha-Ching !!

15-40 isn't recommended? Why? Jaso rated...etc....and it's what I'm using now. What have u heard that I haven't?
The Rotella 10-30 isn't Jaso rated......I've spent WAY too much time researching this oil....lol.
5-40 (blue jug) is a pseudo-synthetic....Jaso-ma-rated. (WET CLUTCH COMPATIBLE)
15-40 (white jug) is a conventional(dino)oil....Jaso-ma- rated (WET CLUTCH COMPATIBLE)
10-30....NO Jaso-ma designation (Stay away)...lol.
You are correct on your post.

In your case, you probably have "off season" storage which now means, by the book, that you should change before storage, not run, and then again before you ride.

With AMSOIL, you are safe to store on saving you an oil change thereby saving you money.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
851 Posts
15-40 isn't recommended? Why? Jaso rated...etc....and it's what I'm using now. What have u heard that I haven't?
The Rotella 10-30 isn't Jaso rated......I've spent WAY too much time researching this oil....lol.
5-40 (blue jug) is a pseudo-synthetic....Jaso-ma-rated. (WET CLUTCH COMPATIBLE)
15-40 (white jug) is a conventional(dino)oil....Jaso-ma- rated (WET CLUTCH COMPATIBLE)
10-30....NO Jaso-ma designation (Stay away)...lol.
I'm sorry silent, I read way way back in a different post that the 15-40 didn't meet the ratings so I never really look at it , I just went for the 5-40. I wish I would have known that earlier, but now brings me to the question....is it safe to switch from the 5-40 from the 15-40? Thanks for the correct info!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,620 Posts
I'm sorry silent, I read way way back in a different post that the 15-40 didn't meet the ratings so I never really look at it , I just went for the 5-40. I wish I would have known that earlier, but now brings me to the question....is it safe to switch from the 5-40 from the 15-40? Thanks for the correct info!!
If you mean switch from synthetic to conventional or vice versa? Yep. It's a myth that you can't mix the two, some companies even make blends of synthetic and conventional! The issue is that synthetic oils can find their way around worn out seals easier than conventional (especially when cold), so someone puts synthetic in an old engine, it suddenly leaks oil, they decide that they put synthetic in a 'conventional' engine and the oil 'ate' the seals. The other issue is seals that are gone but gunk has packed in and served as a seal, and synthetic oil cleans the gunk out and un-plugs the hole!

If you mean switch weights? They are both the same, basically. The first number is the weight when it's cold, the second is the weight when it's warm. Dual weight oils are actually formulated to be THINNER cold, so that they can work their way up to all components of the engine faster, since your engine often runs 'dry' during and immediately after startup. The manual recommends 10-40, and I, personally, am leery about a 5 weight oil running through my engine (which is what it would be cold). I don't have any evidence for why that would be an issue, but if it were me, and I did run the 5-40, I'd make sure to let it warm up first. As it warms it will 'thicken up' to the 40 weight.

Edit: Lots of folks will tell you that you should break in an engine with conventional, the thinking being that synthetic will lubricate too well to facilitate break in. It make sense, but, that's the only time I would ever 'wait' to switch to synthetic, there is no reason why you can't freely switch between the two if you so chose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
851 Posts
If you mean switch from synthetic to conventional or vice versa? Yep. It's a myth that you can't mix the two, some companies even make blends of synthetic and conventional! The issue is that synthetic oils can find their way around worn out seals easier than conventional (especially when cold), so someone puts synthetic in an old engine, it suddenly leaks oil, they decide that they put synthetic in a 'conventional' engine and the oil 'ate' the seals. The other issue is seals that are gone but gunk has packed in and served as a seal, and synthetic oil cleans the gunk out and un-plugs the hole!

If you mean switch weights? They are both the same, basically. The first number is the weight when it's cold, the second is the weight when it's warm. Dual weight oils are actually formulated to be THINNER cold, so that they can work their way up to all components of the engine faster, since your engine often runs 'dry' during and immediately after startup. The manual recommends 10-40, and I, personally, am leery about a 5 weight oil running through my engine (which is what it would be cold). I don't have any evidence for why that would be an issue, but if it were me, and I did run the 5-40, I'd make sure to let it warm up first. As it warms it will 'thicken up' to the 40 weight.

Edit: Lots of folks will tell you that you should break in an engine with conventional, the thinking being that synthetic will lubricate too well to facilitate break in. It make sense, but, that's the only time I would ever 'wait' to switch to synthetic, there is no reason why you can't freely switch between the two if you so chose.
I wanna switch from the synthetic to the conventional.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,620 Posts
I wanna switch from the synthetic to the conventional.
Switching from synthetic to conventional won't hurt anything, like I said, most of the stuff about synthetics and conventionals are a myth. Valvolines website even has a nice breakdown (along with lots of other sources and websites) explaining why these myths perpetuated and why they are false.

If the conventional you're wanting to switch to carries all the ratings and additives you and your bike want/need, then go for it. I definitely wouldn't run without the JASO MA rating, or you'll be replacing clutches. There are still other ratings and additives that go into a motorcycle oil that it may be lacking but that's up to you whether you need them or wish to pay for them.

I can't answer as to which oils are 'best' for the bike, BUT, I can tell you that there is nothing about switching from conventional to synthetic or from synthetic to conventional that will or can harm your bike. They are different, but they are not incompatible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
There is no problem switching as said. If someone chooses to use an automotive type oil for some reason, it needs to carry the proper ratings which in part are: API SG or SG/SH. A higher API of SH, SJ, SM May be used but then must carry the JASO MA, better yet, MA 2 Rating.

I always recommend a Motorcycle Specific oil.

Romans5.8 does not have the explanation of viscosoty correct though.

The oil is Not thinner when cold and gets thicker as it warms. You can notice this by the "thickness" of the oil when you pour it in and when it is hot and you drain it.

There are two different test procedures for testing oil hot and cold. Hot is measured through a drip cup and cold is measured by drag.

It is correct that the lower the first number, the better the lubrication at cold start and, there is no problem. Although for most bikes, we recommend our 10W-40 but, for those that are hearty souls and ride in frigid temps, we also have a 0W-40 wich is a fantastic oil for things such as 4 Wheelers which are operated more often in cold temps.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,158 Posts
I'm sorry silent, I read way way back in a different post that the 15-40 didn't meet the ratings so I never really look at it , I just went for the 5-40. I wish I would have known that earlier, but now brings me to the question....is it safe to switch from the 5-40 from the 15-40? Thanks for the correct info!!
Hey Man, no apology necessary!
Romans/BOB, pretty much answered your question....I'll reiterate a couple of points.
1. Run your 5-40 (blue jug).....no need to switch it out immediately, it's good oil.
2. The "5w"is actually a "winter" designation. There are those that say it's a "thin" oil and they wouldn't recommend it for a v-twin engine. There are those that say the "5w" being "thinner" at start-up is a GREAT thing, because it flows through the cracks and crevices of our vtwin easier at start up.
3. The reality is they ARE both 40 weight oils....They behave different at start-up.
4. It's perfectly ok to switch back to conventional oil after using a synthetic.
5. Rotella isn't recommended as a "storage oil" because of a lack of a rust inhibitors....the oil is made to be run. It's MY OPINION, THAT MOTORCYCLE SPECIFIC OIL be used during winter storage.
6. Beware, it's been MY EXPERIENCE, that Rotella blue jug and white jug will deteriorate around the 3000k mark. Shifting will get quite"notchy". I wouldn't take it much further unless your in an oil analysis program.
Regards, SH

P.S.
One curious thing I have noticed is my sight glass. This has happened to me twice. The sight glass itself was hard to read using my "preferred" oil. I'll refer to it as engine oil "X"....AHEM. When using X, the sight glass appeared to be "foamy"...and had a swirl on the inside of it. I've read many, many posts to that same effect. After switching to Rotella 15-40, the sight glass is crystal clear....I'm assuming/inferring it's because of the enhanced "detergent" properties of the "diesel oil". I could be wrong, however, it's happened twice now.....seems like the Rotella scrubs/cleans the motor well...AND....GETS BLACK FAST!
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top