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Has anyone used Rotella T6 in our bikes i have read on many other bike fourmns and off road racing forumns they use it. It is 5W-40 full sysnthetic non-energy saving safe for wet clutch certified, heavy duty diesel engine oil, very highly rated in the full sysnthetic world (so i have read). My only concern is the weight of the oil in hot summers.
But at 25$ a gallon it would be cheaper than mobile one or amsoil by the quart.
 

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Have been using it for the first 35K miles, no issues. Hope to get many more miles! During the hot months, I sometimes mix in a quart of Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing oil or the like.
Woody
 

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I used it in my 2k, made a huge difference in the heat the bike produced.
 

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Has anyone used Rotella T6 in our bikes i have read on many other bike fourmns and off road racing forumns they use it. It is 5W-40 full sysnthetic non-energy saving safe for wet clutch certified, heavy duty diesel engine oil, very highly rated in the full sysnthetic world (so i have read). My only concern is the weight of the oil in hot summers.
But at 25$ a gallon it would be cheaper than mobile one or amsoil by the quart.
Used it in my Goldwing 1500 for right at 100,000 miles, Haven't changed the oil in my new to me 1600 Nomad But figured I would use it here to, As I was riding tonight my exact thought was if it was good enough for my wing should be good enough for the Nomad.
 

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I'm a fan of using motorcycle specific oil.

Here's the thing. "What will work", and what's "ideal" are often two different things.

JASO-MA rated oil of the correct viscosity is the minimum for your motorcycle; anything less is unacceptable. Including oils that don't bear that JASO-MA rating and oils that aren't within the appropriate viscosity range for your bike and climate.

When we move on beyond the minimum, we're talking about synthetic oils with the right additives. Oils that have additive packages that help the unique conditions of a motorcycle with a shared oil sump, and other unique features of our powerplants. This is where motorcycle-specific oils come in.

So the Rotella will work. It probably won't cause any problems. It will provide adequate minimum protection that will keep the bike running well for as long as most people will own their bikes. One of the reason I think oil discussions are pretty silly is because there just aren't that many high mileage bikes out there. If you're running a bike with a lot of miles or if you yourself ride a lot and intend to own the bike for a long time; then using premium oils makes a lot of sense. Why someone who rides 5-10k a year and only hangs onto a bike for two years cares about using the best oil is beyond me; it doesn't matter. A guy who hangs onto his bike for 20 years and puts 6-digits on it? Now it's a different story.

So that's my story and I'm sticking to it. The Rotella is an adequate oil, it meets the minimum specifications, it will lubricate your bike reasonably well. It is probably not the best oil for your bike. But it's an acceptable oil at a very competitive price.

Far more important than the best oil is simply changing it often. Pick something, and change it often. Don't skimp on changing the filter either. Fresh oil and a fresh filter will reward you with a reliable bike for a very long time.
 

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I've been using it for the most part for 15000 miles on my bike. I change it fairly often (whenever I notice the quality of shifting changing-- usually the first symptom is the going-to-neutral-instead-of-second thing becomes more frequent). I tried an Amsoil change last summer, and didn't notice any difference with shifting, engine noise, mileage when shift quality changed, or anything else.

The T6 meets JASO-MA, according to the bottle, but doesn't appear to be actually JASO-MA certified. In any event, it seems to work well. I just can't stomach the 12 bucks a quart for super premium oils like Amsoil.
 

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I will stay with my Castrol MC oil.

Tried repsol once, changed it with under 500 miles on the oil. It sucked in the V2K. Runs fine in the wife's 900. But will go back to Castrol on next oil change.
 

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I use it. 42k on bike. What i noticed immediately is it no longer lifter taps on startup. It was an occassional issue. Now it never does it. Shifts smoother too. All this means I will keep using it.
 

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I've been using it for the most part for 15000 miles on my bike. I change it fairly often (whenever I notice the quality of shifting changing-- usually the first symptom is the going-to-neutral-instead-of-second thing becomes more frequent). I tried an Amsoil change last summer, and didn't notice any difference with shifting, engine noise, mileage when shift quality changed, or anything else.

The T6 meets JASO-MA, according to the bottle, but doesn't appear to be actually JASO-MA certified. In any event, it seems to work well. I just can't stomach the 12 bucks a quart for super premium oils like Amsoil.
Yeah, AMS is expensive, but I change mine one per year so it doesn't hurt too much.

Frankly, I've been thinking of going back to just plain old dino oil. At roughly 5k per year and in the moderate climate of Western MN, not sure there is any real meaningful benefit to synth.

OTOH, dino "motorcycle" oil is nearly half the cost of synth MC oil around here so over the course of a year it makes practically zero financial difference.
 

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I was in a local Sam's club yesterday where they had the T6 15w 40 case of gallons (6) for $75-76. I don't remember exact price but I do recall that it was around $14 a gallon.
 

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Use it in the V2K. Remember, our bikes are water cooled, not air cooled. The 5w40 is perfect viscosity and the Rotella full synthetic is tough stuff. 20w50 is primarily for air cooled Harleys and the like. Lower price means you will be likely to change it more often, which is by far the most important thing with oil.
 

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Use it in the V2K. Remember, our bikes are water cooled, not air cooled. The 5w40 is perfect viscosity and the Rotella full synthetic is tough stuff. 20w50 is primarily for air cooled Harleys and the like. Lower price means you will be likely to change it more often, which is by far the most important thing with oil.
^ this. Also, as far as changing it more often, my shifting usually starts to feel different around 2500 miles on an oil change, regardless of what oil I use. So it gets changed at about that point. The T6 isn't really any more expensive than conventional motorcycle oil, particularly if you lower yourself to go to Walmart to get it. If I remember right, it's 21 bucks for a gallon plus 6 bucks for an additional quart. I order my oil filters from Amazon-- either Mobil 1 M1-110 or Purolator PureONE 14610. I switched to the M1's because Purolator warns not to use the PureONE on motorcycles... while it's probably BS to get you to buy their motorcycle filters, which are low end and cheaper to make, instead. I never had any problems, but the M1 filters are also very good.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
First 200 miles everything seems really promising. Bike seems to run a little smoother at start up and cold, shifting is much more smoother and really reduced the cluncking into gears.
From all the research i have done i have found T6 to be as good if not better of a Synthetic oil than most the premium motorcycle oils. You have got to remember by adding Motorcycle to anything the price goes up. the biggest reason this oil is cheaper is bulk production high quality and on a large production platform breads lower prices this oil is one of the most widly used and highest quantites sold.
Walmart by me had it for $19/gal with $5 mail-in-rebate. i use the standard bosch D3300 filter total $54 2gal of oil and filter. much better than $83 for mobile-1 6 quarts @ $12.
 
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