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wocka, wocka, wocka
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same scenario, a couple years ago I was quoted $150 labor plus seals.. dont rember how much the seals werent all that much.?

butt I just drained em, flushed and put HD20 fork oil and she quit weepin.. mite wish all wimmens was this ez, huh? poncho
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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what did you flush them with?
mem, I pulled the springs out and let them drip dry as they were loaded with a lot of that nasty old oil, then wiped them down completely clean b4 reinstalling.
while the springs were out and the lower unit drained completely, I poured 8 oz of seafoam in each leg and then gently worked the slider a few times b4 allowing it to drain out the bottom. A lot nasty crap came out with it. I did this twice each leg and the fluid was still pretty nasty but seems like I got a lot more junk out than just draining it and refilling it with all that nasy stuff still in there.

I have to look up how much each fork leg holds (about~16oz?) you can do that research, is measured in millaliters then convert it to oz. online. Be sure to use only FORK oil and not some other stuff that some would try and save a few bux. its not that expensive, $20qt will probably do the job. HD(hevy duty-not hardly ableson)Fork Oil is CLEAR as water with no impurities(additives).

Twice Iv changed it now, just to see how it held up. this is the rite stuff.
Stock fork oil is probably organic fish oil as it stunk like nothing Iv ever run accross. Iv handled some pretty nasty stuff from methylchloride to sulfur chloride refrigerants. stock fork oil is the worse.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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are one set of seals just as good as another? There are some cheap ones on ebay.
b, no. you get what you pay for and then maybe less. never more. dont fk around w/cheap parts. yor time is worth more than a few bux difference and then having to do it again because they didnt last. get stock or better, not some backroom russian blackmarket used/rebilt alley crap, ie ebay, who buys that schitt anyway?

often I get inquiries from contractors trying to use all kinds of old, used, rebilt, 10-20yr out of date controls they are trying to make work because they bought them cheap on ebay.. though I try to be helpful, I let them kno they deserve this lesson, cheap basturds. poncho
 

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I've had good luck with the seals and bearings that All Balls Racing sells. Removing the seals yourself is not that hard. After removing the fork tube from the bike, remove the dust seal, and spring clip then take one of those super sharp drywall screws and lightly hammer it into the seal, one on each side of the seal, screw it in a few turns then use a pair of side cutters or pliers to pull the seal out. Install new seal with a piece of PVC pipe as a slide hammer. I also use the old seal between the new seal and whatever I'm driving it in with to protect the new one.
 

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Haven't done the Vulcan...no leaks. When I did my Suzuki crotch rocket the seals themselves were fairly easy once you get the forks apart. The harder things were the bushings as I completely rebuilt them. Had to make some bushing drivers on the fly to do that part. But, I digress...

Upon reassembly measuring the fork oil volume is important. Changing the viscosity of the fork oil will also change the operating characteristics of the fork damping, both compression and rebound.

Lots of people knock stock parts, but working for a large OEM (not motorcycles) we put lots of effort into our parts. That's not to say they're the best for every use in every circumstance, but often they're the best mix of durability and performance.
 
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