Well I'm still running a 7 year old battery in my voyager which came out of my older 08Suzuki that I traded in on the voyager. Anyway I know this battery won't last much longer so I have ordered a dry battery that comes with acid in a separate container. This way it will be fresh when I'm ready to activate it. The one I got was a "Powersports Battery" that I ordered from Amazon for about $60. The p/n is YTX20CH-BS.
It's the exact same size and is a good price.
When the time comes... Odyssey if they make one for the Voyager. The last battery you will every buy. After 10 years they were still going great on my scoots that had them. Also you have easier starting. Comes with a 5 year warranty...
Yes they are pricey,,, but if you keep your scoot for 10-20 years like I do it is far cheaper in the long run... If you trade every other year... anything will work...
I use a good AGM battery that is made for my paticular make and model of motorcycle.
AGM*(absorbed glass mat) is a special design glass mat designed to wick the battery electrolyte between the battery plates. AGM batteries contain only enough liquid to keep the mat wet with the electrolyte and if the battery is broken no free liquid is available to leak out.
Gel Cell*batteries contain a silica type gel that the battery electrolyte is suspended in, this thick paste like material allows electrons to flow between plates but will not leak from the battery if the case is broken.
More often than not*AGM Batteries*are mistakenly identified asGel Cell Batteries. Both batteries have similar traits; such as being non spillable, deep cycle, may be mounted in any position, low self discharge, safe for use in limited ventilation areas, and may be transported via Air or Ground safely without special handling.
AGM Batteries*outsell Gel Cell by at least a 100 to 1. AGM is preferred when a high burst of amps may be required. In most cases recharge can be accomplished by using a good quality standard battery charger or engine alternator. The life expectancy; measured as cycle life or years remains excellent in most AGM batteries if the batteries are not discharged more than 60% between recharge.
Gel Cell Batteries*are typically a bit more costly and do not offer the same power capacity as do the same physical size AGM battery. The*Gel Cell Battery*excels in slow discharge rates and slightly higher ambient operating temperatures. One big issue with Gel Batteries that must be addressing is the*GEL CHARGE PROFILE. Gel Cell Batteries must be recharged correctly or the battery will suffer premature failure. The battery charger being used to recharge the battery(s) must be designed or adjustable for Gel Cell Batteries. If you are using an alternator to recharge a true Gel Cell a special regulator must be installed.
Well guys let me ask another question. With car batteries I've found they always crater right after the warranty. Also a car battery will be showing approx. 12.7 V prior to start, and 12.1 V or higher during starting if good. Does anyone know if this applies to the bikes? Currently mines showing 12.7 prior to start, but drops to 10.7 V during starting. On a car battery this would usually mean your fixin to be walkin. Has anyone tried this method to test their bike batteries?
I have a 2012 Vulcan Classic 1700. What years ECU will interchange? It looks like the part number is different for mine than the years before and after it. Will they still interchange? Anyone know the difference?
I am riding a 2018 Vulcan Voyager ABS I absolutely love it the only issue is when sitting on the bike I am on the balls of my feet which makes me very uncomfortable, I have dropped it once already. does anyone know if there is a way to lower the inseam about an inch.
Hello all - I am thinking I would like to get the Vulcan classic 1700 LT. Was wondering if the windshield, backrest and bags are quickly/easy removable and to put back on. The reason I ask is I like the look of the bike without all those things on it most of the time and then for the...
General consensus of the usual suspects at various local bike-nights (and probably a majority of riders who contribute to this forum) are that Shinko (S. Korean) and Kenda (“mostly” Chinese from what I can gather) and IRC (Japanese) are low end, cheapo tires not to be taken seriously by the...
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