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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
My wife got a 2006 900 Classic LT and likes it just fine. In case I'm incapable of posting elsewhere on this site, which seems to be the case right now, my question is, is there an online manual for the bike. Specifically, how to remove the rear wheel? I've ordered a Clymer's, but was wondering if I could get it done before it arrives. Or does anyone have any suggestions? I've never had a belt drive...Thanks, Brad
 

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Pretty simple to remove the rear wheel if you have basic mechanical skills:

a) The manual says remove the exhaust, but I don't think that's absolutely necessary
b) Jack up the rear of the bike - front wheel stays on the ground
c) Remove rear brake caliper & suspend it with suitable cord/bungee
d) Remove axle nut cotter pin & axle nut (right side)
e) Remove drive belt cover
f) Loosen the rear axle belt adjuster locknuts & adjuster nuts
g) Move the rear wheel forward as far as possible
h) Place a board under the rear wheel and lower the jack until the rear wheel touches the board
i) Slide the rear axle out from the left side, hang onto the caliper bracket and watch how it goes back together
j) Tilt the rear wheel to the right & slip the drive belt off the pulley
k) Raise the jack until the rear wheel clears the fender & remove

Install is basically the reverse, except be careful of the rear axle collars - I can't recall if they are different widths, so keep them right to right & left to left.

You can smear a little grease on the wheel seals, and don't crush them.

Make sure you get the caliper bracket on correctly, there is a groove that engages with the swingarm stopper. You'll see it when you remove it...just put it back the same way.

Get the drive belt back on the pulley.

Slide the axle shaft in from the left, and button it up. Once you have the belt tension & tracking approximately correct (see below), you can torque the rear axle nut to 80 ft/lbs. The caliper mounting bolts are torqued to 25 ft/lbs.

Adjust the drive belt tension & drive belt tracking. The drive belt can be left with around 8~10mm of deflection at the mid-point...there are instructions for drive belt free play adjustments on this site.

As an initial starting place for belt tracking, I measure the length of the adjuster bolts that are sticking out towards the rear, and make sure they are both the same length...I use a caliper to measure. Do not rely on the hash marks on the frame & adjuster...they are a VERY ROUGH guide only.

Once everything is torqued down, and you are relatively happy with the belt deflection & tracking, you can do a short test ride & listen for belt chirping/squeaking and also observe where the belt tracks on the pulley. With a stock rear pulley, I believe the belt "ever-so-slightly" tracks to the outside.

Read this:

http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/49-vulcan-900/9502-proper-belt-alignment-adjustment.html

I hope I haven't missed anything...its been awhile since I did a re&re on the rear wheel.

E&OE
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. One problem I have is jacking up the rear. A regular bike lift has no real place to contact the frame on two points, and the result is quite unstable. I'll try using a car jack, as I see a cross member just before the wheel that might work with that.
 

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You might want to try this. My self, I bought a good quality jack from Harbor Freight that looks to be discontinued, but I've seen this is used by many members on this site.
 

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If you can't find a way to lift just the rear of the bike you can also lift the entire bike, then place a wood block under the front wheel to support it.
 
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