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Those of you who have removed the rear wheel to have a new tire put on. Is there an easier way of removal then the manual suggest by removing the rear fender? I'll do it that way but I know someone has short cut the work involved. Please advise. Thanks
 

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From memory, the bags and mufflers need to come off. The chrome trim can stay on but the front, 2? screws need to be removed. With tire just touching the ground, remov the shocks, the you can raise bike enough to get the axel out. If you are not comfortable bending the chrome fender trim out enough to get the shocks off, the trunk needs to come off, but I have never pulled the fender. Done it 3 times I believe, twice for tires and once to drease the swing arm bearings.
 

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I just finished changing my rear tire yesterday.
I found these on one of the forums and it worked for me
I'm doing this from memory - I can't remember the bolt sizes.

Rear Tire:

1. Lift bike on Center Jack, high enough so that you can put a floor jack under the rear tire. Secure with straps.

2. Remove both saddle bags (3) 10MM bolts each.

3. Remove hex bolts that hold the Plastic Chrome above the top shock bolt - You are not removing the plastic chrome part - just need bolts out so you can get a box end wrench on top shock nut.

4. Unbolt the rear brake caliper leaving the brake hose attached. Using wire or a tie wrap secure the caliper so it is not dangling on hose. (you might have to remove the hose from rubber grommet support.

5. Place a floor jack under the rear tire - handle straight out the back of bike. Jack it up snug (do not lift bike)

Remove Shock Nuts

6. Remove the bottom shock cap nut with a socket - Pay close attention to the order the cap nut and washer come off. You will need to put it back on later.

7. Remove top shock cap nut - Pull back the plastic chrome and use a box end wrench to remove the nut and washer. Make sure you get the same stuff off from the top as you did on the bottom - they are the same except you can't see what you are doing under the plastichrome

8. Pull the shock from the studs - both top and bottom must pull off at same time. You might have to raise or lower the floor jack a tad to remove the shock.

Note - On the shock - there is a sleeve through the bearing on both the top and bottom of the shock - these will come out and should stay in place (grease holds them in) Don't let them fall out - you don't want dirt in the needle bearings that are under the sleeve.

Now the Swing arm with the wheel attached should be able to be jacked up or down without the bike moving on the center jack.

9. Jack up or down to find best access to the rear axle cotter pin - remove.

10. With 1 big wrench and 1 socket with appropriate extensions Loosen the rear axle. Remove castle nut.

Note again - I do not release the wheel alignment adjusters when I remove the rear tire.

11. Jack rear tire up so you can slide the axle out above the mufflers.

12. very slowly remove the axle paying close attention on how the a brake bracket / right adjuster / bushing come out (Yer gonna have to put them back in/ hold them in place while a helper pushes the axle back in during reassembly) ( I set the Right side parts in a pile on the right side of bike and the left side parts on the left - I try to put them right back where I took them off - even though they may be the same both sides.)

13. Once axle is removed the wheel will shift forward - roll floor jack ahead enough to get the belt off from the rear pulley.

14. Lower rear jack - Pull jack backward - rear tire should just roll off from jack and still be under the bike.

Note yet again - the rear pulley is not physically attached to the wheel - it will fall off if you are not careful - just pay attention.

15. Wrestle wheel out from under the bike - trying to keep pulley side of the tire UP.

16. Lay wheel assembly on (2) 2x4's with pulley up and brake rotor down - DO NOT SET on floor on brake rotor with out support.

17. Pull Pulley straight up and remove - and remove the 6 rubber dumaflatchies inside the hub.

Go get the tire changed.

Reassembly - Reverse order of dis-assembly.

One trick I did find - Use a couple of long Tie Wraps to hold the Pulley to the wheel (around pulley and around spokes) to hold pulley in place while you are trying to reassemble. Cut off tie wraps before tightening the rear axle.

Also - having someone push the axle trough the wheel from the left side while you are using both your handle to line up the bushings and adjusters on the right is a must. You will cuss at least once getting the adjuster / brake bracket back in place.

OH torque everything to spec when you reinstall. With the exception of the top shock nut which you will have to estimate.

If you follow the Manual for rear tire removal it has you removing the Tail Trunk so you can remove the plastichrome trim part so you can torque the top shock nut on reassembly.

Torques

Rear Axel Nut = 80 Ft Lb
Rear Brake Mounting Bolts = 20 Ft Lb
Rear Shock Nuts = 25 Ft Lb



Front Tire


Front tire is pretty much normal front tire removal. You will need tool to fit in front axle - the Voyager does not supply a spark plug wrench that fits the front axle. Look through your spark plug socket collection - one of them might fit in the axle - push the socket extension through the wrong end of socket.

Basically - remove and secure the brake calipers - both sides.

remove pinch bolts from bottom of fork tube.

With breaker bar loosen and remove axle - I've found loosening the front axle easier before I jack it up.

Front axle torque = 94 ft lb
Front caliper mounting bolts = 18 ft lb


Assembly -

After tightening the Axle - they suggest you pump the front forks up and down several times before tightening the Front axle clamp bolts at the bottom of the fork tube. This sets the axle in a neutral position (you don't and that sucker will bobble.)

Front axle clamp bolt = 15 ft lb

Hope that helps.

Disclaimer - Torque specs are from a 2009 - 2010 online manual I have and all other steps and procedures are from memory. That said - I might have missed a step - but logic should prevail.



Hope that helps.
 

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I did it without removing the shocks or fender... posted this a long time ago....

Lift rear end off the ground. I have a full scissor lift with drop out plate. But you can use a normal jack or the simple scissor lift.

Remove bags and loosen the left side muffler. I used a long screw in place of the the short exhaust mount screw and hung the exhaust with that, probably a 3" drop.
Just enough so you can see the bolt head of the axle.

Remove the caliper and the castle nut / cotter pin. Push the axle towards the left side. The axle head will hit the left side bag mount rail. I loosened the bag mount rail bolts that are forward of the axle. I used some heavy rags and a small prybar and forced the bag mount up just enough and pushed the axle past the bag mount. Fairly easy and it doesn't bend anything. A little bit of flex.

I took the axle and ground off one side of the flange on the head flush with the nut face. I put it back in with the ground flush side parallel with the bag bracket. You need just a little pressure on the bag bracket to get the flat side of the axle head to slide past the bag bracket. TaDa!!!!

Will make removal next time way easier...

Your results may vary but this is what I did and it worked well for me.
 

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Took left muffler, saddle bags off. Raise the bike to unload shocks. Removed chrome pieces that cover top shock mount bolts. Removed shocks. Raised bike high enough to get axle out. Pretty easy.
 

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From memory, the bags and mufflers need to come off. The chrome trim can stay on but the front, 2? screws need to be removed. With tire just touching the ground, remov the shocks, the you can raise bike enough to get the axel out. If you are not comfortable bending the chrome fender trim out enough to get the shocks off, the trunk needs to come off, but I have never pulled the fender. Done it 3 times I believe, twice for tires and once to drease the swing arm bearings.
I left those 2 screws for that right side chrome trim off. Don't need to remove the trunk anymore. The trim is as secure as if those 2 screws were there. I take that bag bracket on the left side off. Pull the axel and jack it up enough and slide the wheel off. After the first time I learned to leave those 2 trim screws under the trunk off. I haven't taken the shocks off, maybe I'll give it a try next time. IDK
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the tips so far. I'll access the job when I start removing bags. I'll let you know the results. You have given me a starting place.

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2012 Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager 1700
 
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