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Discussion Starter #1

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Discussion Starter #3
Kind of my thought

It does look good but over priced a bit. I would buy one for half the price. Led stripe doesn't cost that much as well as tag bracket.
That is where I am trying to decide to dive in myself and do my own. I like the total look on this kit so my thoughts were to weld up a braket to hold the Lic. plate and then figure out how to create litterally the same led set up.

May have to dig in a bit and try to get the total wiring of LED's first. Including the flash function and make sure I get that right.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Okay another question hopefully someone will see it within, did not want to start another thread. If I change only the rear OEM turn signal/running lights out with LED type will I run into the dreaded FAST FLASH syndrome?

Will I have to do all the Mods which are the equalizer and diode kit. Again this is only rear being done?

thanks
 

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..yeah.... I'm sorry. you would get the fast flash syndrome if you were to switch out just the rear turn signals. you would have to do the resistor equalizer mod, but the good news is that you wouldn't have to do the diode mod. It would depend on whether you wanted to save power, or headache.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
helpful to know

..yeah.... I'm sorry. you would get the fast flash syndrome if you were to switch out just the rear turn signals. you would have to do the resistor equalizer mod, but the good news is that you wouldn't have to do the diode mod. It would depend on whether you wanted to save power, or headache.

very much appreciate the quick response and help. not so worried about the power draw as this is more about cleaning up the rear end look. I truly like so many of the bikes where they have rid their rear ends of the combo pack(bracket, lic. plate, turn/running lights all packed together) so found some clean LED bullets and can do my own Fab. work on the plate but then read about he LED fast flash deal.
again thank you
 

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I did something simalur to this product back in 2009 when I got my 900. I want to say I spent maybe around $150. I ordered a led strip from Radiantz.com. The have an order form to order exactly what you want, length, tube tent, turn only, and turn with run/brake. I went with a 9" turn in smoke color since I kept my original run/brake set up. I want to say it cost me around $65. Now this strip is not flush on the bottom edge, it sat on the fender at the bottom edge and was not that noticable. It connected with automotive 3m tape that came already on the strip.

My plate was side mounted with a led lit frame. You can pick up a axl side mount plate holder on Ebay fairly cheap. The wireing is not hard to figure out, it's all pretty strate forward. And for the fast blinking issue, go to any auto parts store and pick up a heavy duty flasher. Change out the OEM flasher with the new one, this corrects the fast flash. Do a search on the forum and you should be able to find better info on which type to get. It's been a couple years since I put everyting on, so I don't remember the exact type I got.

With a little effert, you can find all the parts online. And one more thing, when I did mine, I did not have to remove the fender. I spliced into the wire that go to the rear bracket for the turn signals and secured everything with zip ties up inside the fender.

 

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I still love that look Gillisfire.

I bought the Low & Mean LED (pre-release pricing)...yup, a bit pricey, but what are ya gonna do?

First, though, I moved the plate up (my stage 1)...but was not satisfied...went to the L&M LED and am totally happy now.

I removed the rear fender and soldered/shrink-wrapped everything.

Like Gillisfire says, it can be done with parts...I just don't have the skills or time to make it look decent...and am not willing to fuss over a couple hundred bucks.

We cannot run our plates vertical up here in Canada...so I kept the horizontal mounting...I was really wanting to go with an axle nut plate mount, but again that can be problematic up here in the north...and I am not interested in attracting the wrong kind of attention.

Yes, I am flashing "fast" now...and do not really care for the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thank you again for the added info out of the last two post, it really helps a fellow rider out for sure.

Because I run saddle bags and permanent sissy bar setup mine was just a bit different. Do not remember the members name or bike but found some more ideas based on their bikes. Still gets the rear with a clean look. So going to the following

Will go vertical on Lic. Plate but can cut/weld/fab my own, already have metal laying around. For lights going to go with LED's but in bullet style. Perfect clean, tucked in place that I can mount them. May not work but saw these on Ebay when getting my lights so got them coming I believe this will solve the fast flash issue, PLEASE tell me is I am WRONG, it did seems strange to wire in the resistor from + to - but been awhile since I had to think about resistance and Ohms and DC all combined, my first thought was it would short but the instructions clearly state jump between + and - please forewarn me if this looks wrong. here is the link to see what I am saying http://www.ebay.com/itm/200818930127?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

But if all goes as planned then that get the killer cleaned up rear end look I envy over your guys bikes, so much cleaner, kudos to all of you and your work.


NOW THINKING: maybe I should have gone this route, but tell how bad my idea of the resistors above is please
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Flasher-Relay-ELFR-1-FAST-BLINKER-FIX-OEM-Connect-/180345282841?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item29fd6aa119&vxp=mtr

or this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acumen-LED-Kawasaki-Motorcycle-Turn-Signal-Relay-Indicator-Blinker-Flasher-/190805129714?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6cdf39f2&vxp=mtr

Starting to over think this so just tell me the best method or choices above, Thanks
 

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Okay another question hopefully someone will see it within, did not want to start another thread. If I change only the rear OEM turn signal/running lights out with LED type will I run into the dreaded FAST FLASH syndrome?

Will I have to do all the Mods which are the equalizer and diode kit. Again this is only rear being done?

thanks
You can get a flasher relay for $20 on ebay. I installed the Low and Mean LED with License plate kit and the turn signals did flash fast. Do not get a load equalizer - its a waste. You can find your flasher relay box in front of the battery. It just pulls off and the new one from ebay just hooks right into it - work perfectly. Plug and Play is the way to go.
 

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You are on the rite track with the flasher relays. So you can get an electronic flasher at any auto parts store. replace your stock flasher with the new one and all will work. Electronic flashers don't care what blubs you have, they flash the same with 1 or 10.It does not depend on the blub load to make it work like the factory flasher does. You may be able to find one that plugs directly to the OEM plug or what I did was add a jumper to the stock plug for the electronic one. I can put it back to stock in about 30 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
appreciate it

You are on the rite track with the flasher relays. So you can get an electronic flasher at any auto parts store. replace your stock flasher with the new one and all will work. Electronic flashers don't care what blubs you have, they flash the same with 1 or 10.It does not depend on the blub load to make it work like the factory flasher does. You may be able to find one that plugs directly to the OEM plug or what I did was add a jumper to the stock plug for the electronic one. I can put it back to stock in about 30 seconds.
Appreciate you and your help seriously gillisfire20, you seem to always be willing to help on anything you have dealt with before. Though I spent the $6.00 on Resistor(lord help me) I went ahead and got one of the plug n play unit should make it today. Also finished up drilling out my custom/homemade Vert. Lic. plate holder and got her painted last night. Should be on the bike and done by tomorrow. My new lights not so much, good old USPS tracking, they will be here when they get here LOL, but our 10 day weather outlook is lousy to no harm nor foul I guess. When all is done the rear end so have a very nice clean look.

Again appreciate the members, all about sharing what went right and wrong for the next person in my opinion.
 

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Just wondering if anyone has tried this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260989375379?item=260989375379&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

I am a little confused whether or not a diode is needed, on a coupe other threads people say yes you need them, and others say no. Maybe someone can clarify. I'm only looking at doing the rear lights at the moment so what I understand is that I do not need a diode, however if I were to later change the front as well I would need a diode.

Does this sound right?? Thanks
 

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I didn't care for the looks of the rear of my Vulcan Custom either. It has a great looking fender and a fairly fat tire, but it's hidden by a huge chunk of plastic that holds the signal lights, license plate, license plate light and a reflector. So I figured that it was time for a change.

I wanted a side mount license plate, which I found for $15 on EBay. I did purchase the 19mm nut ($36) from Mean Cycles that is a nut+bushing all in one. It's expensive but it's made out of stainless steel and then chrome plated. I couldn't come up with anything else close on my own. I did have to flip the axle over which involved loosing up the exhaust but not too hard to do.

I then removed the fender and took off the plastic piece that holds the signal lights, license and such. I then made a bracket to hold some replacement signal lights.

I put red LED 1156 bulbs (again EBay for $8) and put in a electronic flasher relay. I found this one on EBay by TST Industries. http://www.ebay.com/itm/290710789489
It works with LED or regular bulbs or a combination of both. I have LEDs for the rear signals and incandescent lights for the front without any flashing issues.

I am going to post a thread that shows what I did with pictures and such.

MissViolet: I don't have any need for the diode on my dash indicator light (So far). The purpose of the diode is to stop all 4 signal lights from flashing. This happens because the LEDs are diodes (they have a positive and negative to them) and the dash indicator lets power go from one side of the circuit to the other. Putting a diode kit in the leds to the dash indicator prevents this. Several companies make kits for $8 to $15 or you can get 2 diodes for .50 cents each and make your own - it's not hard and there are a lot of diagrams on the web to do this. If you need one PM me and I will send it to you and how to wire it in.
 

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my question is, what size tire are Shadow and gillsfire running? :)
 

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any mods needed to run that gorgeous tire ? :D
 

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Very minor mods. There is some trimming of plastic parts inside the fender and the two belt guards. Gillisfire20 has it all documented on his photobucket site here:

http://s759.photobucket.com/user/gillisfire20/library/230 install?sort=6&page=1

It's all easy. I used a combination of side cutters and pruning shears to cut the plastic. Go slow, don't over-cut.

Since I have the Barons rear pulley, I did not have to cut as much from the inner fender skirt as some have. The Barons rear pulley moves the rear tire backwards about an inch or so.
 

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Fast flash

Okay another question hopefully someone will see it within, did not want to start another thread. If I change only the rear OEM turn signal/running lights out with LED type will I run into the dreaded FAST FLASH syndrome?

Will I have to do all the Mods which are the equalizer and diode kit. Again this is only rear being done?

thanks
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/lf1-s-flat-universal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/787/842/

This fixes that it pluh and play
 
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