Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Took the bike out for it's first rip. Oil was a little low so I toppped it up to the full line. next thing I know... oil dripping out of the air box. Bummer!

So, i did my search homework and what I came up with is that everyone seems to have their own oil level. Some guys are full at the low mark and some at half or full. Does everyone find they're a little low on the stick?

I did an oil change by the book - all three plugs, new Kawi filter and M4 Kawi oil. Exactly 4.6L (Canadian) and I did the warm up, let it settle for 4-5 mins checked the stick and I'm at the low mark on the stick.

The reports I found were from all breed of Vulcans. Has anyone had a similar prob with their V2k?

Has anyone tried relocating the Crank breather higher up the frame with an after market breather?

Do you get some oil blow when you're heavy on the throttle?

Thanks in advance,
Clay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
319 Posts
oil

Always leave the oil no more than half way up on the stick. I did the same thing once. A few have added breathers. Check on the delpi forums
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yeah most of the ones that I have seen were 800's 900's 1500's - alot carbed. I was wondering if anyone with a V2k had relocated the breather.

I will be relocating mine, I think it's just a bad spot to have. I'm pretty sure they don't have much choice but to route it into the airbox because of environmental issues... you can't let it barf out on the ground or let it spill in front of your tire so reburning it is probably the best option.

BUT... there's always an alternate solution. If relocating it higher up the frame with a filter doesn't solve it. I'll put a puke canister on the line with a return. Oil vapor going through my throttle body doesn't rub me the right way to begin with. no wonder everyone is having carbon build up and knock issues. I'll update with results.

Clay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
I have added a aftermarket filter and its located a bit lower under the hypercharger with no issues.It would be the most difficult bike I have ever owned to check the oil level,but last oil & filter change added 4.6 qts and it was ok.
cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
553 Posts
I have added a aftermarket filter and its located a bit lower under the hypercharger with no issues.It would be the most difficult bike I have ever owned to check the oil level,but last oil & filter change added 4.6 qts and it was ok.
cheers
4.6 qts?!?!?

Did you do all 3 plugs and the filter?

I just changed my oil and added way more than that.
Go to VN2000.com. There is a detailed description on how to properly change the oil on this beast under maintenance. I just did mine and no issues.

Good Luck!
 

·
wocka, wocka, wocka
Joined
·
5,618 Posts
when is enuff, enuff?

Always leave the oil no more than half way up on the stick. I did the same thing once. A few have added breathers. Check on the delpi forums
this issue comes up on every other bike/motor forum. how much oil? and then the song and dance numbers come out. do this, don't do that. obviously, don't overfill... or underfill the motor. huh?

well, the dang oil expands when heated and needs to be checked when hot. the bike needs to be upright for that short little stick to even get wet. So here is the dance. ride your bike. stop. park it. take out the stick and wipe it clean. put it back in. stand the bike up for all of say... 5 seconds. put it back on its side stand. take out the stick. read the oil level. adjust as necessary.

overfilling is ez. too much and it gets blown in to the air box. when I strip my motors, I route-tuck a new breather hose down and out the frame and blow that stuff on the pavement, not back into the airbox.

underfilling, well these motors/trans can hold 5 quarts of that slippery stuff. even if you had only 2qts in the beast it will still get all the lubrication it needs. the rest is just sitting in the pan waiting for its turn thru the pump, etc. now more oil is good for heat removal... if you have an oil cooler. otherwise its just sitting there hot, waiting to go round again.

point. there is no need to get all worked up over having some exact amount of oil or level for the motor to be properly lubricated and protected. meaning if your level is a bit low it is no big deal. if it is a bit high, well that can be a big deal as it gets blown out somewheres.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yep I agree with that. If it's on the stick you're probably good. If you kept it on the low side and checked it often, you'll probably never have a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Thank you for purchasing the Vulcan 2000, Kawasaki's newest flagship cruiser.

Because the Vulcan 2000 has a unique semi-dry sump lubrication system with separate oil chambers in the crank room, clutch side cover and transmission room, the engine oil level indicated on the dipstick is very sensitive to oil temperature, the motorcycle's position and engine RPM at time of shut down.

Under certain conditions, oil can accumulate in the crank and clutch areas and give a false low reading on the dipstick in the transmission room. This can result in false low readings and oil overlilling, which often leads to oil being pushed out of the crankcase vent and into the airbox.

Use the following procedure, which is also outlined in the Owners's Manual, for checking oil level:

Verify Engine Oil Presence
Before starting the engine, verify that the engine contains oil by removing the oil filler cap/dispstick in the lower right side of the engine. If the dipstick is dry, tip the motorcycle slightly to the right and look thru the filler holde until oil appears. If no oil appears even when the machine is tipped at an extreme angle, remove the oil drain plugs to empty any oil that may be in the transmission, crankcase and clutch cover. Reinstall the drain plugs and refill with the specified amount of oil. Continue with Engine Oil Level Inspection.

CAUTION: If the engine is run without oil, it will be severely damaged.

Engine Oil Level Inspection
After you have verified that the engine contains oil, start the engine and allow it to idle for several minutes to thoroughtly warm the oil in the transmission room to 125 degrees Fahrenheit according to the following chart:

Air Temp Idle Time
40 degrees 15 minutes
65 degrees 10 minutes
100 degrees 5 minutes

*NOTE: During this time the auxilliary cooling fan may be activated several times.
After allowing the engine to idle for the specified time, shut it off. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE AND SHUT IF OFF AT HIGHER THAN IDLE RPM. Doing so can leave a significant amount of oil in the crank room and clutch area, leading to a false low oil level reading.

Allow the oil to settle for several minutes. With the motorcycle level from from to back and side to side, remove the oil filler cap/dipstick and wipe the dipstick clean. Continue holding the motorcycle supright and reinstall the dipstick, threading the cap completely in. Remove the dipstick and check the engine oil level. The engine iol level should be between the high and low level lines on the dipstick.

If the oil level is too high, remove the excess oil through the filler opening using a syringe or other suitable device. If the oil is too low, add oil to reach the correct level. Use the same type of oil that is already in the engine.

Replace the cap, making sure the O-ring is in place and tighten.

Following this procedure should provide an accurate oil leel reading. If you feel your are not obtaining accurate readings using this method, please see your local Kawasaki dealer for further assistance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
so your all saying oil going into the air box is because the oil level is to high so how do i stop this thanks Brett
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,388 Posts
so your all saying oil going into the air box is because the oil level is to high so how do i stop this thanks Brett

Hey ....Couple things......Could b caused b high oil level....If this is the case remove some of the oil.......If oil level is good then......This is a common issue....The crank case vent tube runs 2 the air box...Hot gases r carried in there....With the hot gases is a certain amount of condensation.....This forms into oil residue and such......So yes does happen.....There is much information around on relocating the vent line.....Some people will run the line 2 a new location.....Some bikes worse than others......Mine is not a problem so i have never had 2 move mine.......Terry.........:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
I understand the problem with overfilling the crankcase with oil. I found that I get the most accurate reading checking the oil after I have gone for a short ride and got the oil hot. I let it sit for around 15 minutes. Then made sure the bike was level. Removed the dip stick and wiped it off. Put it back in and checked the level. Seems to me that I got the most accurate reading doing it that way. If I let it sit for only 2-3 minutes as the shop manual states, I would get a reading on the low line. 15 minutes, and it is half way up.

George
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
571 Posts
This is a great thread for new owners such as myself to read, especially folks like me who have had several other bikes and get used to doing the oil level the same on all bikes. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Oil Change

this issue comes up on every other bike/motor forum. how much oil? and then the song and dance numbers come out. do this, don't do that. obviously, don't overfill... or underfill the motor. huh?

well, the dang oil expands when heated and needs to be checked when hot. the bike needs to be upright for that short little stick to even get wet. So here is the dance. ride your bike. stop. park it. take out the stick and wipe it clean. put it back in. stand the bike up for all of say... 5 seconds. put it back on its side stand. take out the stick. read the oil level. adjust as necessary.

overfilling is ez. too much and it gets blown in to the air box. when I strip my motors, I route-tuck a new breather hose down and out the frame and blow that stuff on the pavement, not back into the airbox.

underfilling, well these motors/trans can hold 5 quarts of that slippery stuff. even if you had only 2qts in the beast it will still get all the lubrication it needs. the rest is just sitting in the pan waiting for its turn thru the pump, etc. now more oil is good for heat removal... if you have an oil cooler. otherwise its just sitting there hot, waiting to go round again.

point. there is no need to get all worked up over having some exact amount of oil or level for the motor to be properly lubricated and protected. meaning if your level is a bit low it is no big deal. if it is a bit high, well that can be a big deal as it gets blown out somewheres.
I have a question regarding changing the oil on my 2004 V2K. I went to the VN2000. com site and went to the oil change link. Is it necessary to go through all that leveling to just empty the oil and change the filter? Or will all the oil drain when on the stand. I would think I could remove all three plugs and drain the oil, and manually stand the bike level manually for a while to drain any excess. Seems to me that leveling is an over kill for draining. I understand it is necessary to be level when checking the level. When I check the oil level, I put a level above the speedometer, and check the dip stick as I am sitting on the bike, and level.

What do you suggest?

George
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,611 Posts
add me to the list of folks who are getting oil in the airbox cover....I let my local shop who has always done my rides do the 600 mi service and I guess he is not familiar with V2Ks... :(

took a long ride and came home with oil all over the exhaust and the tool box cover... took of the airbox and found a half a cup of oil collected... :(
I followed this warm up / leveling / no revving procedure and my level is still above the top of the top mark. Sigh....

I TOLD him it was a special procedure and even provided him a copy of the instructions listed here before the service. He must have blown that off and just done his usual change job. He is properly apologetic now and we will be siphoning out a half a quart or more and replacing the filter element now....

I like the tubing re-route suggestions but wonder if that could end up lubricating the gripping surface of the back tire with this much oil coming out ??? comments?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
add me to the list of folks who are getting oil in the airbox cover....I let my local shop who has always done my rides do the 600 mi service and I guess he is not familiar with V2Ks... :(

took a long ride and came home with oil all over the exhaust and the tool box cover... took of the airbox and found a half a cup of oil collected... :(
I followed this warm up / leveling / no revving procedure and my level is still above the top of the top mark. Sigh....

I TOLD him it was a special procedure and even provided him a copy of the instructions listed here before the service. He must have blown that off and just done his usual change job. He is properly apologetic now and we will be siphoning out a half a quart or more and replacing the filter element now....

I like the tubing re-route suggestions but wonder if that could end up lubricating the gripping surface of the back tire with this much oil coming out ??? comments?
Personally, I don't think it is necessary to go through tubing re-route if you understand the filling and checking procedure. I have only had my V2K for a few months. It is a 2004. I had the dealer change the oil when I bought it, and they did it right. When I do it myself, I will start out with 4 qts, check it, and go from there. As someone said in this thread, "no problem if you underfill, only if you overfill" It is a difficult bike to check, and as some people say, you just need to know where your fill line is for your bike. I'm still not satisfied to have the level at the bottom end, but it sure beats the alternative.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
987 Posts
Too much oil

I think everyone that has a V2K agrees that the procedure to check the oil is a real pain. I took mine into a Kawi dealer for the first oil change and THEY overfilled it. I took it back because the motor vibrated so bad at speed, shooting oil out the airbox, I thought I had holed a piston. Turns out the kid that the dealership had changing the oil just kept filling it until it reached the full mark cold, nearly 7 litres. When I check the oil now, I run it into the Condor stand warm, wait a minute or two and make sure the oil doesn't come up more than half.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top