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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
Over the past few months I have had a clutch slipping feeling 3 times.
99% of the time it is normal! but yesterday was the last time where I came out of a right turn into a street and as I accelerated, it was going fine for a second and then the engine revved as though I pulled the clutch in for only a second. I backed off the throttle and then went full throttle to check if it would do it again and it didn't do it again.
The bike has 56000km on it. The road was dry and good grip each time. I also had my hand off the clutch too.
Has anyone else had this issue?
Could it be a wearing clutch,or broken spring?
Thanks in advance :D
 

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Two possible problems:

1. Clutch was slipping, or
2. Jumped out of gear.

What year is it and how long have you owned.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Sfair.
I just went for a 200km ride and it did it again in second gear as I was getting ready to slip into third gear.
It only does it randomly. If I try to make it slip by slowing down in second gear and then throttle hard,It just does as it should.
Iam a mechanic and have diagnosed many car clutches because it is easy to repeat the fault. But this is very random.
My bike is a 2007 with 56000km on it.
I have owned the bike for 9 months 10000km
Regards Jason
 

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Sounds like the dogs/slots for second drive and driven gears are worn/damaged.

What happens, particularly with Kawasaki transmissions, is the 1-2 shift can sometimes be a little reluctant and the heel shifter makes it soooo easy to give a little stomp stomp to make the shift change. Then the shifting fork can get bent, second gear engagement is no longer complete and gear damage results. Also, the 1-2 shift is the most used drag racing shift and it can be hard on the gears also.

Sometimes when the shifting fork is bent enough, it rubs too hard on the side of the gear and wears quickly and the shift becomes worse over time. Also, the gears themselves wear and after a while, you may find it jumping out of second anytime power is applied.

The ONLY PERMANENT fix is a case split, replacement of the two gears along with the shifting fork and an inspection of the shift drum for wear.

On mine ( I have a 1500) I removed the heel shift for this very reason. The toes are much more sensitive to shifting and I find that 1-2 shift with more precision and am not tempted to resort to any stomping/forcing if it wants to hang. Just cannot pull that hard with the old toes!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Sfair,
Sometimes it is very clunky to select gears.
Would a gear related problen make a grinding noise when it slips on me?
When my bike slips,the engine just revvs up sudenly while Iam applying steady power but it has only happened 4 times in the past couple of months.
It feels exactly as though I pulled the clutch while getting up to speed.But only for enough time for the revvs to lift and then as a reaction,I drop the revvs and it is all good again.
This week Iam going to replace the back tyre,So I will have a close look at the drive belt.But if the drive belt was missing teeth I would expect a skipping noise while moving all the time.
Hopefully it will become more frequent before it leaves me stranded and it is easy to find.
Regards Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Interesting point. When I did the last oil change, I used Motul 510010W50 bike oil and Kawasaki filter.
But I did have a bike shop repair the Stator for me. There was nothing on the invoice saying they replaced the engine oil,So I can only assume they drained the oil and refilled with the original oil which was in the engine. It was a Kawasaki dealer who did the stator,So I would like to think they would use the right oil if they replaced it.
Keep in mind that I did have to strip it down once I got the bike home (750km) to tighten the stator mounting bolts properly.
Regards Jason
 

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Two possible problems:

1. Clutch was slipping, or
2. Jumped out of gear.

What year is it and how long have you owned.
As Sfair said, maybe "Clutch Slipping"?

Do you have tall bars possibly? Are your cables being stretched to their limit? I have read that if your clutch cable is stretched too tight (usually from ape hangers and risers etc...) that as you turn your bars to their limit is actually pulls on the clutch cable. Just a thought!
 

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If the clutch was slipping, it would do it in more than just second.

Second gear grinding, jumping and clunking are all symptoms of the issue I described above. If it is not repaired, it will just get worse over time while filling your sump with shrapnel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It did happen once in top gear at100km/h as I was overtaking a car. It was a slight incline, but only a little throttle as I was on a bend in the road.
I dont want to rule anything out, so I will change the oil and filter this week and look for flakes in the sump too.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Guys,
A bit of an update on my clutch issue.
I just got back from a 1300km roadtrip with my girlfriend and bag on the back of my bike.
At lower speeds just cruising along I notice I have the required amount of free travel at the clutch lever,But as soon as I travel at say 110kmh on a slight incline and power on a little. I notice the lever has no free travel and as soon as I back of the throttle,The free travel in the clutch lever returns.
I found myself adjusting a little more free travel into the lever while it was at it's tightest to prevent it from slipping.
Has anybody else noticed the free travel tighten up at higher speeds under some load,But not hard throttle.
I did get it to slip once more for a split second while overtaking a bus at 100kmh going up hill.
Also,Can anyone explain why the free travel would tighten as the bike is under load?
Iam from the car industry and never worked on a bike clutch,So bear with me if it is something common knowledge.
Iam happy to replace the clutch kit and new springs if that will fix it.
I checked my engine mountings to see if the motor is tilting under load and pullng on the clutch cable,But that all looks fine to me.
P.S. I have 60,000km on the bike now and the clutch is still original as far as I know.
Regards Jason
 

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The only time I've seen a clutch change adjustment on a bike was on a drag bike I had. After a hard launch start while letting out the clutch slowly to avoid too much wheel spin it would lose all clutching and the clutch handle would blow back against my hand with the wind. I just shifted with no clutch but when it was cooling down the clutch play came right back to normal. I tried an aftermarket clutch and heavy duty springs and it helped with the problem. This was an extreme heat situation with a lot of HP running thru a bike not designed for it that caused this so not normal operating for sure. This was on a 1971 H2 750 Kawasaki 3 cylinder 2 stroke drag bike. Go to Kawasaki.com and see the pictures of the just released 2015 H2 supercharged Kawasaki. This thing is nuts. http://kawasaki.com/Products/2015-Ninja-H2R
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That looks like an awesome bike. It would be nice to have one in the garage for the times I want to just go for a quick fast run.
Maybe I should order a new clutch kit and at least try that first due to the mileage on the bike.
Is there any aftermarket brand of clutch kit which has a good reputation?
 

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The only after market clutch I've ever had was the Barnett clutch. I just read some reviews and everybody that reviewed it thought it was great. Some just used OEM clutch plates and Barnett springs. My Barnett springs increased the lever pull and it was noticable when pulling in the clutch. I have seen very few if any complaints on the 900's clutch or springs so not sure it is a big deal what you replace it with. Since you are not positive if thats the problem it might be smart to do the cheapest replacement since it will be good for another 70,000 anyway. After that who would care. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I saw a video on youtube about changing a bike clutch and the guy doing the video swears by the Barnett brand.
I have a few hours spare this afternoon,So I will remove the clutch and see what is going on in there.
I will report back what I find.
Regards Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok,So I have now removed the clutch plates and springs along with half the bike.
The friction plates have only worn 0.1mm. They are each 3.0mm measured at several points on each plate.
The springs also measure up at 0.1mm under new length. Still well withing tolerance.
There is a very slight straw colour on one steel plate.
Unfortunately I don't have a perfectly flat area to measure warpage.
Now Iam really scratching my head.
Regards Jason :confused:
 

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I think you were on to something with the engine load scenario.
I would have put the bike in a high gear, held brakes and released the clutch slightly to load the engine and had someone look at all clutch cable points for pulling or flexing.
One would not want to hold this for very long for obvious reasons.

Have you changed the handlebars/risers from factory?
Has the clutch cable ever been replaced?
 

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As an add, do not forget that there are three different places to adjust that cable that have to be correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Sfair.
When I get the bike all back together again. I will load the motor up and watch how the clutch cable reacts.
I did add some 2 inch risers almost a year ago,But the cable has a free path with plenty of length still.
Regards Jason
 
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