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anyone have any info about flushing the cooling system?
have a 99 vulcan 800 and I'm sure its never been done.

two years ago i drained the coolant and put in fresh, but i'm sure it could use a good douche,
like with a caustic cleaner. radiator cap needs replaced, and there is crap in the upper hoses - so I'm
sure the block and radiator itself has to have crap in it. want that out.

last summer hot light came on more often. this is Florida so no surprise, but it's been lighting up a bit more often...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
anyone have any info about flushing the cooling system?
have a 99 vulcan 800 and I'm sure its never been done.

two years ago i drained the coolant and put in fresh, but i'm sure it could use a good douche,
like with a caustic cleaner. radiator cap needs replaced, and there is crap in the upper hoses - so I'm
sure the block and radiator itself has to have crap in it. want that out.

last summer hot light came on more often. this is Florida so no surprise, but it's been lighting up a bit more often...
found the drain plug. 10mm right side, underneath, near the outer right of the engine.
pulled that out, no fluid flows, hmmmmm
pushed a small screwdriver up the thread holes and viola! water!! like a birth plug. dirty water, cant say its anti-freeze, just dirty rusty water,
ya, need some caustic chemicals inside this engine. maybe a new thermostat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
found the drain plug. 10mm right side, underneath, near the outer right of the engine.
pulled that out, no fluid flows, hmmmmm
pushed a small screwdriver up the thread holes and viola! water!! like a birth plug. dirty water, cant say its anti-freeze, just dirty rusty water,
ya, need some caustic chemicals inside this engine. maybe a new thermostat.
Kawasaki wants $50 for a thermostat and gasket.
pulled mine. cleaned it up with simple green.
looks OK, but would still have to boil it up and see if it opens.
not going to replace for 50 bucks.
anyone know a NAPA replacement for ten bucks?
I may just remove it altogether and run without. I dont ride if it's colder than 60 degrees, which these days in Florida is about never....
 

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I did flush my cooling system last summer in a simple and classic way. Just drained the old coolant and flushed with a tap water from (and to) every hole I could find and open. Then I put everything together and filled it with clean distilled water, ran engine couple of times. Drained again, filled again (distilled water) and drained again. After some three or four such cycles I filled it with green (ready to use) aluminum compatible coolant. That's it.

P.S.
Filling up is a little tricky.
If someone needs, there's a video on YouTube how it's done by one of VN800A owners. (It's not me :D)
 

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What Tehnis said.

Let the water flow out all openings.
These arent cars with heater cores and hard places to get to.
If your running hot AND you know the coolant section has crud, maybe it time for a new radiator?
That is the piece that can plug up with crud and make the engine hot.
 

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Try filling and adding about a quart of distilled vinegar a couple times. Let run until fans comes on, drain and repeat. Do this until water comes out mostly, if not completely clear, then fill with 50/50 antifreeze.
 

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I would not recommend to add any vinegar or any acid type fluid to any aluminum cooling system at all. It's Your decision, but it's mostly because of the way of green coolant works. The green one contains components which have "abilities to cure" microscopic aluminum damages and even repair micro leaks. If You apply vinegar to all system, You risk to rip off that protective layer, even together with some part of system's aluminum oxide, which been there for years! Well, if You still would take risks using vinegar, in worst case, You should wash only the most problematic parts. If it's, for example, radiator, take it off and wash it separately.
 

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i go to the honda car dealership that sells auto parts and buy a jug of type 2 blue 50/50 pre-mix and change it every 2 years or less
 

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Engine ice. Good stuff.
 

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Made for bikes.
 

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So, what's the difference between bike aluminum engine and car aluminum engine? :D
If something is "made for bikes", it's just a marketing trick. Just like a "motorcycle oil". There's no "motorcycle oil"! There's only an "engine oil" with specific parameters ;)
 

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So, what's the difference between bike aluminum engine and car aluminum engine? :D
If something is "made for bikes", it's just a marketing trick. Just like a "motorcycle oil". There's no "motorcycle oil"! There's only an "engine oil" with specific parameters ;)
You are absolutely wrong regarding oil. Use auto oil in a wet clutch MC engine and you will eventually damage the clutch friction discs.
 

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i use shell rotella t 5w40 diesel oil
 

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and i still have not begun my 800 valve clearance check, i'm waiting to get motivated
 

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You are absolutely wrong regarding oil. Use auto oil in a wet clutch MC engine and you will eventually damage the clutch friction discs.
:)
Yes and No! (I don't know what You meant, but...)
You are absolutely right about the need for a specific oil for wet clutches and absolutely wrong if You say that it's a "motorcycle oil" and not the same simple engine (motor) oil for wet clutches:)

First, let's check VN800/A manual. It says we need Engine Oil Type API SE, SF, or SG. SH or SJ with JASO MA (SAE 10W-40, 10W-50, 20W-40, or 20W-50). No word about the "motorcycles", because there is no "motorcycle oil" :) According to API specification, all these oil categories (types) are simple engine oils for simple engines with wet clutches. (Don't forget that in 70-ties and 80-ties there also were cars with wet clutch systems.)

So, why do some oils are marked as "motorcycle oils"?
First, as I said, its a simple marketing trick. The way to sell ordinary engine oils for price of double :D People actually are too lazy to go deep into technical details. Most of them are ready to pay more, if they get confirmation that it's the right product for them.

Second, according to API whitepaper, previously mentioned oil types (seems like except SJ) are obsolete and replaced with new ones for long ago. Actually, it means, that there is no SE, SF, SG, SH engine oil in mass production any more. And if You need one and there's no choice, there's an option to go for next available type. In this case, according to API, API SJ (for wet cluch, SJ JASO MA) should be fine. (I'm using ordinary SL for long time with absolutely no problem.) Theoretically, You could go for even much higher grades, but there's no real reason for that. It's a logical and technical overkill and a chance that Your last century bike clutch will not function properly. Higher grade oils would have features and chemical components that Your engine and clutch would never profit. So, can You damage Your engine and clutch? Yes! (Totally agree.)
So, finally, what's exactly an oil for a motorcycle engine? It's a simple engine oil which has further specs for taking into account, before using. And, there's no "motorcycle oil" There's always an engine oil which is or is not for specific needs :)
P.S.
Great resource:
API Engine Oil Classification
 

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wait, did someone say that shell rotella diesel 5w40 t6 is synthetic?
i thought t6 5w40 is a group III base stock oil, isn't synthetic from group IV base stock?
 
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