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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I've got the triple tree bolts loose and i'm trying to raise the fork tubes half an inch to lower the front end. the tubes will go DOWN but not up! could someone please tell me how this is done? Im stumped and the bike is on the jack!
 

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Wow I don't know that one.
You might get a faster answer if you PM RacNray.
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2013
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Ok, so I've got the triple tree bolts loose and i'm trying to raise the fork tubes half an inch to lower the front end. the tubes will go DOWN but not up! could someone please tell me how this is done? Im stumped and the bike is on the jack!
I assume the wheel is off, right? If the fork won't slide up, just loosen the clamp a little more, and it should move easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
no, the wheel isn't off, I figured if I loosened the clamps and let the jack down it would push them up but the top fork covers seem to be keeping that from happening.
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2013
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no, the wheel isn't off, I figured if I loosened the clamps and let the jack down it would push them up but the top fork covers seem to be keeping that from happening.
I believe you will have to remove the wheel. Just lowering the jack, the pressure/weight of the bike isn't applied straight down on the forks, so it's binding in the triple tree.
 

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I really don't think you can lower the front end of the Voyager just by sliding the forks.:(

If you look down toward the lower triple tree; you will notice that the triple tree butts up against the fork cover.

Here is the parts diagram; it may help to visualize the problem.
http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b709bf8700223e479848f/front-fork

I think you would have to re-locate the dust seal; which would probably require a new spring and reduce the fork travel.

Others may have a trick that I'm not seeing; but it isn't going to be simply loosening the fork clamps on the tree and sliding the forks up.:(

Scott
 

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I really don't think you can lower the front end of the Voyager just by sliding the forks.:(

If you look down toward the lower triple tree; you will notice that the triple tree butts up against the fork cover.

Here is the parts diagram; it may help to visualize the problem.
http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b709bf8700223e479848f/front-fork

I think you would have to re-locate the dust seal; which would probably require a new spring and reduce the fork travel.

Others may have a trick that I'm not seeing; but it isn't going to be simply loosening the fork clamps on the tree and sliding the forks up.:(

Scott
Yes you can; I and many others who have installed a 21" front wheel have done it. I DO NOT recommend doing it. I am mot going into great about why. You can search several threads about a 21" front wheel kit and read my thoughts about it.
 

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Yes you can; I and many others who have installed a 21" front wheel have done it. I DO NOT recommend doing it. I am mot going into great about why. You can search several threads about a 21" front wheel kit and read my thoughts about it.
I did find your input on one of the threads about the 21" front wheel.
It seems that you had the shop replace the springs too. This required them to remove and disassemble the forks. Which is inline with my original observation.

I had to remove my forks when I replaced my stem bearings. The lower triple tree sits at a full stop on the fork cover.

If you look at the diagram that I linked to you will see the cover PN:44033.
The lower triple tree butts up against it and it DOESN'T move.

This morning I only looked at the diagram shortly myself. (mea culpa)
After reviewing it better this afternoon. It looks like there is a damper, washer and spacer that needs to be relocated. (not the dust seal)

It looks like the spacer PN: 92026A is held in place on the upper fork with a 4X16 bolt PN: 92151.
From my experience with installing the forks; I am going to guess that this is the part that holds the cover and therefore the lower triple tree in it's stock position on the forks.

I would also guess that you would need to remove the forks, slide the cover up and relocate the spacer.
I would be very careful to check the clearance above the top of the triple tree and I would make sure that the left and right spacers were located exactly the same.

I think this may reduce the distance of travel making it easier to bottom out. So, a stiffer spring may be in order.

Scott
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2013
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I did find your input on one of the threads about the 21" front wheel.
It seems that you had the shop replace the springs too. This required them to remove and disassemble the forks. Which is inline with my original observation.

I had to remove my forks when I replaced my stem bearings. The lower triple tree sits at a full stop on the fork cover.

If you look at the diagram that I linked to you will see the cover PN:44033.
The lower triple tree butts up against it and it DOESN'T move.

This morning I only looked at the diagram shortly myself. (mea culpa)
After reviewing it better this afternoon. It looks like there is a damper, washer and spacer that needs to be relocated. (not the dust seal)

It looks like the spacer PN: 92026A is held in place on the upper fork with a 4X16 bolt PN: 92151.
From my experience with installing the forks; I am going to guess that this is the part that holds the cover and therefore the lower triple tree in it's stock position on the forks.

I would also guess that you would need to remove the forks, slide the cover up and relocate the spacer.
I would be very careful to check the clearance above the top of the triple tree and I would make sure that the left and right spacers were located exactly the same.

I think this may reduce the distance of travel making it easier to bottom out. So, a stiffer spring may be in order.

Scott
Scott, you are absolutely correct that the spacer 92026A has to be relocated if you slide the fork up into the triple tree. This is a PITA. If either one isn't perfect, it will cause the fork cover to rattle every time you hit any tiny bump. I bet you don't have to ask me how I know this, either!
And yes, sliding the forks into the tree does reduce the suspension travel and increases the chance of the bottom of the tree bottoming out on the fender! Also, the fender spacer provided by Roaring Toyz makes the fender even another inch closer to the tree, so you lose two inches of suspension travel if you slide the forks into the tree. You can almost certainly say hello to the nice dent in the top of your front fender if you do this. Again, you probably don't need to ask me how I know this, either!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks y'all, I ran out of daylight last night and didn't feel like fooling with removing the forks so I buttoned it all back up and left it be. I had read several threads where people talked about moving the forks up and I had thought it was a simple procedure. Should have known better lol.
 

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Thanks y'all, I ran out of daylight last night and didn't feel like fooling with removing the forks so I buttoned it all back up and left it be. I had read several threads where people talked about moving the forks up and I had thought it was a simple procedure. Should have known better lol.
I thought the same thing; until I had to remove them for the bearing replacement.

I think Ponch took all the pieces parts to the cover off; which would allow you to move it in the triple tree at least the distance of the spacer, damper ect. without losing any travel.

Is lowering the bike an aesthetic mod or are you looking to reach the ground better?

Scott
 

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I thought the same thing; until I had to remove them for the bearing replacement.

I think Ponch took all the pieces parts to the cover off; which would allow you to move it in the triple tree at least the distance of the spacer, damper ect. without losing any travel.

Is lowering the bike an aesthetic mod or are you looking to reach the ground better?

Scott
Trying to reach the ground better. I only wanted to move them.5" but I took the bumpers of the seat and took the clips off the stock shocks. I'll have to put a bit of air in the shock to keep it from bottoming out but I can flat foot now. Especially two up.
 

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Trying to reach the ground better. I only wanted to move them.5" but I took the bumpers of the seat and took the clips off the stock shocks. I'll have to put a bit of air in the shock to keep it from bottoming out but I can flat foot now. Especially two up.
I haven't heard about taking the bumpers off of the seat.

I guess we're talking about the stock seat. What and where does it contact now?

Also, if you haven't already; I would really suggest buying the micro air pump for the shocks.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I haven't heard about taking the bumpers off of the seat.

I guess we're talking about the stock seat. What and where does it contact now?

Also, if you haven't already; I would really suggest buying the micro air pump for the shocks.

Scott
I have the air pump... the seat contacts in the same place without the bumpers, I purchased some furniture bumpers that are only about an 1/8" thick and put them on the frame where the old bumpers contacted.
 
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