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Discussion Starter #1
i picked up a brand new Rush Racing exhaust for my 2007 vulcan 900 classic. (Rush racing is selling off their remaining kawasaki inventory on eBay and i got it very cheap.) i went to partzilla and got some new exhaust pipe holder gaskets (OEM #11009-1856) and shiny new nut caps (OEM#92210-1132) and i think i'm ready to go. couple questions.

1) do i need to put any type of sealant or silicone on the gasket before i install the new exhaust on to the header or is the gasket enough??
2) i've got an OEM repair manual on the way because i'm assuming the nuts on the headers have to be torqued to spec. is this correct?
3) is there enough room usually to get a ratchet head around the end cap?
4) is there a different gasket i should use besides the ones i purchased?
5) are there any tips a novice mechanic like me should have to make the job easier? this is the first bit of mechanical work i've done on the bike since i purchased it last spring. i'm not very mechanically inclined, but this seems like a job i should be able to handle.

thanks in advance for any wisdom you can throw my way. i'll post photos of the before and after.

- rich
 

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1) no, its a crash gasket.
2)torqued at 17N-m, or 12ftlbs
3)? End Cap?
4)no
5)just follow the instructions,and take your time. Don't tighten up the head nuts until the end, or the heat shields will not line up right.( I did this with my Vance and Hines, and have a small gap. No one see's it,but I know it's there. :rolleyes: )
This is how I did mine.Hope this help's you out.
 

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Agree with TIRH, take your time. I started with attaching the exhaust to the heads and ring gaskets first, but left the cap nuts on but loose. Then put in the rear bolts, starting with the top vertical bolts first, then the lower bolts next, and left all 4 of these bolts loose. Then kind of jiggled the exhaust aournd to get it in place where I thought it should go, then started tightening things up. I was working with a replacement set of stock exhaust, which didn't seem to fit correctly at first..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I got my gaskets today so I’m ready to do the install. One more question though- the gaskets have a flat side and a slightly rounded side. Which side goes towards the engine and which side faces the pipe? Or does it matter?

thanks,
Rich
 

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I got my gaskets today so I’m ready to do the install. One more question though- the gaskets have a flat side and a slightly rounded side. Which side goes towards the engine and which side faces the pipe? Or does it matter?

thanks,
Rich
I put the flat side facing the engine, rounded side facing the exhaust pipe. Video on why
 

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Get some help putting on the heat shields. (that is the hardest part) It takes three or four hands. Trust me it will keep your sanity intact.

Put some anti seize on the header studs that the cap nuts go on. Next time you take them off they will slide off like butter
 

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Agree, flat side against the engine. The engine side is always machined flat. The pipe may not be perfectly flat, or the pipe may not align perfectly flat. Your old gaskets are crushed flat, but may not be perfectly flat (slightly angled) and still sealed. So those are crush gaskets, that you can really only use once.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just put it on. A few thoughts....

first, louder than I thought. I like the tone, but volume might be an issue.

the muffler pipes did not want to go in to head pipes AT ALL.a lot of persuasion and perspiration was necessary. That part was disappointing. It came already assembled from manufacturer and it was all I could do to get the pieces apart.

I rented a torque wrench from Autozone and I didn’t hear the “click” on ANY of the 4 nut caps. I stopped because the flanges were actually starting to bend. I am bringing it to be serviced in a couple weeks so I’ll have them check it.

should I use lock-tite on the screws that hold the billets caps on the end?

ill let you know how first ride goes when I take it out.

thanks,
Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So in addition to the things I mentioned in the above post (#8), a new development...

I started the bike up again today, and around the forward header pipe there is some steam or smoke escaping. I think it’s steam because it also seems to be spitting a little water out. In the photo below I am pointing to the nut around which the water seems to be escaping. It is the rear header pipe that had the flange that was bending, so I was much more aggressive on tightening those nut caps. On the forward cylinder, the one that now has the vapor, I did not tighten it as much because I did not want the flanges to bend. I did not hear the little “click” on the torque wrench on any of the nut caps.

So not quite sure what to do. Do I tighten up the nut caps on the forward head and see if that stops the steam in the water from escaping? Is it even safe to ride to get it serviced at the end of the week?

rich
 

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Don't panic. You have the hard part already done.

DO NOT put locktite on the cap nuts at the header. Use antiseize instead.

As you can see from the leak, exhaust gas is hot and can form vapor. Combine that with the extreme heat and it is easy to see why those studs frequently rust and seize and can be nearly impossible to remove the nuts a few years down the road. That's why you use antiseize and not locktite.

Sounds like your exhaust is in a bind (pun intended) :cool:

You can try tightening the front nut to see if the leak stops, but the best thing to do is to loosen all 4 cap nuts. Then slightly loosen the frame bolts.
It is best to tighten the header nuts like you do a wheel. Don't tighten one all the way and then tighten the other.
Tighten them evenly. Do a few turns on the front nut then a few on the back nut then go to the next pipe and repeat. Go back and forth until they are tightened evenly.
this is the key to getting them to seat even and flush.
It is difficult to torque these nuts because as you can see the alignment is tricky which makes getting an accurate torque reading almost impossible.

Then snug up the frame bolts last.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I meant should I use lock tite on the screws that hold the shiny slash cut end pieces on the back end of the exhaust pipes.

I didn’t see the piece of advice about anti-seize before I started. I’m not sure I’ll be able to loosen anything:(

when I tightened the header bolts I did go back and forth, not sure it worked.

if I loosen them, doesn’t that mean I’ll have to take the whole thing out and replace the gasket beit has been crushed?

seems like if I loosen it, the leak will get worse. I’m not doubting you- just wondering which I should try first.

when you refer to the frame bolts, are you referring to where the exhaust’s mounting bracket bolts on to frame?

starting to think I shoulda let my mechanic do this lol
 

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I'm hoping the vapor is just water vapor from the exhaust of a cold engine. I would suggest just loosening the nuts, then tighten them again evenly as SixthGear said. As long as you don't remove the exhaust, those gaskets should be ok. I didn't use a torque wrench when I replaced my exhaust, I just tightened the nuts and bolts by feel. After the first ride, I checked them again and had to re-tighten the cap nuts. There has been no issue for me since then.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I’ll do that tomorrow. Think I should do both cylinder heads or just the one that’s leaky?
 

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I meant should I use lock tite on the screws that hold the shiny slash cut end pieces on the back end of the exhaust pipes.

Yes it's ok to loctite those screws

when you refer to the frame bolts, are you referring to where the exhaust’s mounting bracket bolts on to frame?

Yes


This will be a good learning experience for you. Like I said you got the hard part already done.
Just take your time retightening those header cap nuts and I bet you will get it sealed just fine
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Much thanks for everyone’s advice, really appreciated.

This evening I removed the heat shields, loosened all the header nut caps as well as the muffler’s attachment to the mounting bracket and the bracket’s attachment to the frame.

I then tightened all the nut caps evenly a small bit at a time, starting with the back nut on the rear cylinder, then the front nut on rear cylinder, the back nut on front cylinder, then finally the front nut on front cylinder. Then I went back and repeated the process, tightening just a bit at a time. I did not use the torque wrench- just did it until they were snug/tight.

I will post pics below, but there is still just a tiny bit of moisture leaking through (red circles in photos, both on front header.) Not nearly what it was. Once it warmed up and the idle slowed, that moisture stopped.

should I tighten it more?

My plan tomorrow is to start it, then tighten up all the bolts on bracket and frame and see at what point the header starts to spit more moisture. Tightening those bolts will change the stress forces on the header and I fear it may worsen again.

I will also post a photo of the joints between header pipes and muffler pipes. There is a good seal around the lower pipe, but around the upper pipe there is a lot of exhaust escaping. Given the angle of the muffler pipe as it sits on the mounting bracket there is no way to get the top pipe inserted any further.

learning a lot, that’s for sure. Any critiques welcome and again, thanks for helping this newbie DIYer work out the kinks.

rich
 

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I can't tell from your pics but the gap between the pipe flanges and the header should have even spacing on both sides.
 

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Just commenting to say I installed the same pipes in black on my bike and don't seem to be having any issues. I'm also not mechanically inclined in the leastThere is a fair amount of space between the pipes and where they insert into the bike but from reaching out to others with these pipes it's common. I've been riding for a few weeks now and don't notice any popping or exhaust leak but also don't know exactly what to look for besides smoke or vapor. I also have the instal directions directly from Rush if you'd like them or don't already have them.
245424
245425
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I do have the factory instructions, but I appreciate you offering to send them. They seem ok now, but who knows when I tighten up the mounts.

as I said in a previous post it was all I could do to get it apart when I opened the box and there is no way to make the top muffler pipe fit in flush with the top header pipe and still get the bottom pipes together. The fit just seems to be off.
 
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