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i have a 06 vulcan lt. i have been using the kawa chem 10w40 oil right from the kawasaki dealer. i was wondering if i could switch to the mobil 1 10w40 full synthetic oil. my bike has 6100 miles.

thank you
 

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Use the Mobil 1 Vtwin oil. It doesn't have the friction modifiers in it. Friction modifiers are not good for your clutch.
 

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It's recommended that the switch to fully syn oil should wait until after the first oil change or two. You should be okay to switch anytime at 6100 miles.
 

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Last I read, Harley was shipping from the factory with synthetic in their bikes. Break in tolerances may be a thing of the past, but all that's moot with my bike now that it's over 30,000 miles anyways.
 

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I just got my Amsoil 10-40 bike oil today and an Amsoil filter,,,,plan on changing my oil probably Thurs or Fri, raining till then. My LT has 3200 miles and this will be the 2nd change after the initial change at 600 miles. Let you all know how it goes.
 

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I use Valvaline 10w40 basic Motorcycle oil. I used synthetic in the past, But I've noticed the clutch slipping when using that type of oil. No more cluch slip since I switch to regular oil.
 

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Noticed Advance Auto Parts in my area has Mobil 1 bike oil on sale for $8 a quart. Both 10w-40 and 20w-50. Its usually about $10-$11 a quart. Still more than Rotella T 5w-40 thats about $25 a gallon but less than Amsoil. Not debating which is best, just passing on sale info.
 

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I saw the Mobil 1 bike oil (both weights: 10W-40 and 20W-50) at Walmart for some $8 and a change. Seemed like the everyday price.

I was trying to figure out the difference between the "Sports Bike" and "V-Twin" formulation. I was reading the back of the bottle as well as info at Mobil's website.

It seems that they assume that "air-cooled" V-twins run "hotter", that's why they recommend the 20-50. Still, I am inclined to go with the "Sports Bike" formula (10-40) as our Vulcans are water cooled and the manual also recommends this weight.

Do you guys think this is good thinking or would the V-Twin 20W-50 be better? I am in New York, so no extreme temperatures here. But I tend to ride year-round -- at least I was riding most of this past winter when there was no snow.

This was my first winter and I am at about 1,500 miles so with the next change I am switching to synthetic.
 

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I have 350 kms(218 miles) on my 09 900 classic and did the hard accelerating and hard decelerating engine brake in.Some say don't put synthetic in the first oil change and some say it doesn't matter.I was going to put the shell rotella t6 synthetic in this weekend am I safe in doing so????Thanks
 

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No oil expert here. I did an oil change at 2000 miles to make the change to synthetic. Some have said wait even longer and some have mentioned new bikes coming with synthetic. Do not know the right answer but figured things were pretty well broken in at 2000 miles. For my break-in I did an early oil change at 200 miles and followed the manual for break-in speed. Then let the dealer do the normal 600 mile service so the change to synthetic was actually my third oil change.

My Walmarts here do not carry Mobil 1 bike oil or Rotella synthetic so choice is either get it at auto parts stores, bike shops or direct order Amsoil from their dealer that posts in this site often.
 

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Ron -

Who is doing your services? I am in the Joelton area but am down your way often. What's the going price for an oil service?

Thanks,
Kevin
900 LT
 

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Only one I've had done was the 600 mile break-in where I got the bike at Sloan's in M'boro. Do not recall how much of the service charge was the oil change. Went back there because they will do it while you browse if you get in early enough and wanted to look at some accessories anyway. Thought they might check the belt, clutch and other things as part of break-in service. I think their labor rates are pretty high like most dealers but seem like good people. I can handle a little higher rates if they treat you right and do a good job. Since they are about 25 minutes from East Brentwood I can do just an oil change myself cheaper and quicker than a round trip to Sloan's. Cost me $25 for a gallon of Rotella Synthetic 5w-40 and about $10 for a Mobil 1 filter to do it myself. Had to buy a small filter cap wrench and small oil pan to do it.

If I'm just needing a part I usually go to America's Motorsports on 8th Ave in Nashville as its on my way to work but they do not have as big a showroom or accessories as Sloan's.
 

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*SNIP*Only one I've had done was the 600 mile break-in where I got the bike at Sloan's in M'boro. Do not recall how much of the service charge was the oil change. Went back there because they will do it while you browse if you get in early enough and wanted to look at some accessories anyway.
Thank you, Ron. :)
 

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Kevin, Congratulations on the bike purchase. Have really enjoyed mine since last Fall. Biggest issue is the seat is not very comfortable for tall riders. Probably will replace the seat eventually. Wind buffetting was bad until I put windshield lowers on it.

The Americas Motorsports in town seems OK but have not had any service done there. I think there is also one up your way at Rivergate. My previous "learning bike" came from Americas Motorsports and the prior owner I bought it from seemed OK with their service. There are not any Kawasaki dealers around Brentwood.

Back to the oil service topic. Many oil threads on the board. Many opinions about Amsoil, Mobil 1 bike oil, Rotella and other oils. An Amsoil rep in the oil section will direct ship oil from his warehouse for a reasonable cost if you want what many consider the best. He gives a forum discount if you contact him. Just be sure you do not put anything in the bike that has "Energy Conserving" low friction additives common in car oils as it will mess up the wet clutch.
 

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Great info, Ron. The only "problem" I currently have is the wind buffetting. I wear a 3/4 helmet with face shield and at about 60 mph it's so bad my vision becomes blurred unless I lift the shield open. I've tried moving the windshield up/down to no avail. So, here's the newbie question: what are these lowers you speak of?????

As for being tall and the seat being uncomfortable, the tall part for me isn't an issue lol. The '07 I bought has a Corbin seat on it and the rides I've taken so far have been quite comfortable. I'll be doing my first few hour ride on Saturday so that opinion may change.

The closest shop to me is probably Rivergate but Mid-South in Clarksville is only a couple mile further. Gonna call both to get a price on the first service (since purchase) and hopefully I can watch over their shoulder.

Thanks again!
 

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Windshield lowers are the wind deflectors that extend down the front fork. Most of the buffeting for me is air coming under the windshield and up beside the tank so this tends to deflect it around you. I have the stock Vulcan lowers which are not as large as some aftermarket. Mine just hit my Cobra engine guard at full handle bar turn so they could not be made larger. The Vulcan lowers mounting brackets are really nice as they hang off the windshield bracket instead of straping to the fork tubes. Look around and find something that fits your light bar, turn signal and engine guard arrangement if you have any of these. One of the poster's on here "waterboy13" or Kawasaki Forum makes some a little larger. Here's his. http://www.vulcanforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=223 If you want Vulcan lowers places like Accessories4Bikes.com have better prices than the dealer. Here is a picture of mine since I modified the lexan size.
http://i986.photobucket.com/albums/ae349/tncarters/IMG_0598.jpg
 

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Not sure if it matters but I've ran Rotella, Mobile V-Twin, regular Synthetic and regular ole Dino oil and I can never tell a difference. I'm doing an oil change this weekend on my bike and will just be using NAPA brand regular oil.
 

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Just be sure you do not put anything in the bike that has "Energy Conserving" low friction additives common in car oils as it will mess up the wet clutch.
I see this alot on other MC forums too, but I don't recall anyone actually reporting a problem. Certainly I could have missed it.

For me, it's no biggie to pay a bit more for MC oil, but my point is that I think it might be more an urban legend or "theoretically possible" thing than a real big issue. FWIW, I'm typically a "use what the book" says sort of guy with regard to specs so again, it's FWIW...
 

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I see this alot on other MC forums too, but I don't recall anyone actually reporting a problem. Certainly I could have missed it.

For me, it's no biggie to pay a bit more for MC oil, but my point is that I think it might be more an urban legend or "theoretically possible" thing than a real big issue. FWIW, I'm typically a "use what the book" says sort of guy with regard to specs so again, it's FWIW...
I've never had a problem and the manufacturers never say not to use them.
 
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