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Discussion Starter #1
I need help from fellow 1600 riders, I am trying to replace my bulbs with LED lights, this means hyperflashing so I understand I should replace the flasher for a thermal flasher or an electronic flasher (not really sure witch one is best or required if changing front and back turn signals to LED).
I've seen some flashers with 2 or 3 poles but as I went to check on mine ('05 1600 classic) the one I found in there has 5 prongs.
How do you recommend I proceed???
 

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How did u go about changing the flasher? I'm going through the same thing with no luck

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I never received any answers on the forum and I traded up to a V2K at the end of that same year (right after a long trip that served as a goodbye ride for the 1600, we both owed us a big ride b4 we parted ways), never did find out how to do it and the LED bulbs I had bought stayed in a box on my garage. The 1600 went to my brother so I still have contact and help him do some of the maintenance.

The Beast that I bought already had an aftermarket LED integrated rear light panel (run-brake-turn signals all in one LED array) so I did not move to change the front turn signals as I would not save that much on energy... Until this last couple of months that I was prep'ing to haul a trailer and I ran into my LED bulbs I had stored away.

Because I was gonna add the electric load of the trailer lights , all LED by the way, I thought I revisit the Jump to LED as I already had the Yellow LED bulbs and the smoked lenses for my front turn signals. As I did the basic research to install the trailer wire harness on my bike I started to look for the flasher info also, thinking that if the PO had already changed the rear I would not run into the hyper flash problem. I changed the bulbs and the hyper flash came back... Damit!!!!!!

Well, I wasn't about to put it off again.

So I went ahead with the wire harness thing did all the connections and at first test, BAM!!, not only I was getting the hyper-flash, also both sides of turn signals were flashing all together at the same time, :surprise: BIKE AND TRAILER. :surprise::surprise::surprise:

Let the head scratching begin.....

First of all I found out the rear was working fine 'cus they had installed a "load equalizer" thing that basically draws the energy the LED are saving you so the stock flasher keep working at the designed pace, then the LED's are just for show and features, not to save on system load (some thing that I had decided I did not want to do but, hey, it was already on the bike when I got it, without my knowledge). I was in a particular hurry 'cus I had the trip coming up in 4 days so I had to, I mean HAD TO, get it working and fast. So first I go and try to do a check on the web, mainly on this forum but elsewhere also, ot try to get to the bottom of my problem come to the conclusion that the whole system has a failed connection somewhere and go ahead and dis-assemble the whole thing again, and this means take off the rear every thing (tire was still off but the fender and side chrome rails were already on again) and remove the wire harness to check every connection.

As far as I understood, the load equalizer was not working as it should have, causing the load to be minimal and therefore, because of the single dash turn indicator light, electricity was flowing to both sides. This would happened if no load eq was installed and I had changed to LED bulbs, and I would have to change the flasher to an ELECTRONIC FLASHER instead of the stock thermal flasher to fix the rate of flashing and do the DIODE Mod on the dash indicator light to avoid both sides to flash all at once (like emergency or "hazard" lights on a car).

Very limited on time, I decided to do it in 2 stages, work on getting the system functional for my trip, even if I had to leave the load eq. there for the time being and therefore avoid the need for the diode mod (the diode is an electrical device that only allows electricity to flow in one direction which helps avoid the all light flashing problem without disconnecting the dash turn indicator light).

Thanx to the research I did and a bit of luck, the problem turn out to be a badly connected ground line for the load eq., after checking and reconnecting all wires things finally worked as I needed and I was able to keep pushing to meet the trip deadline.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Sorry for the looooooong post, but I was taught that describing yur problem and the process that brought you to solving it is what might help the most number of other members in similar situations (b'sides, I kinda enjoy it and it helps be process and organize my thoughts about the issue). the short answer is that I did find out how to proceed but, if you want to change to LED's you have two issues to resolve:

ONE is the hyper-flashing (flashing at a faster pace due to reduce electrical load of the LED's) the operative function of the stock thermal flasher is so you'll notice a bulb is failing or not working at all when it does not draw any charge and the rest of the system hyper-flashes. This, as it turns out, is optional if you are willing to live with your turn signals flashing faster, just be careful, if yours flash too fast you might loose visibility to others on road as they might not be aware you are signaling to turn.

TWO (very important) because of the minimal load and the fact that we have a single turn signal indicator light on the dash, both sides (turn signals) are connected to the same circuit, when you activate one the juice flows one way and the light in the dash turns on, if you turn the other side on the juice flows the other way and the indicator turns on. The problem comes up because when the draw is so small that the juice that is not being used by the lights is flowing to the other side (I am not knowledgeable enough in electrical matters to explain how exactly that happens) and both sides flash. there are 2 possible fixes, one is disconnecting the dash light so there is no way the 2 sides can interact, the other one is the DIODE MOD that has many threads dedicated to it in this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Went in but a lot of the pix are not available to see until I have certain # of post. I can asume from the thread that it was solved with Flasher surgery and putting a resistor in there. I am interested in finding out more of this cus at one point I will dive into the problem.
 

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So far this is the best solution until they make an aftermarket one that fits the meanstreak. To be honest I could care less about the auto cancel feature as long as I could get led's to work flawlessly without soldering diodes and resistors all over the place.
 
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