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BOTM Winner, April 2016
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Discussion Starter #1
Tell me again why we're supposed to use a programmer? I finally got around to installing mine yesterday, and to be honest.... don't notice a huge difference, if any

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Tell me again why we're supposed to use a programmer? I finally got around to installing mine yesterday, and to be honest.... don't notice a huge difference, if any

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Wouldn't know, never Had one:grin2::grin2:
 

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Tell me again why we're supposed to use a programmer? I finally got around to installing mine yesterday, and to be honest.... don't notice a huge difference, if any

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I installed V&H pipes and a Baron BAK on my 04 and ran it since new with no programmer. I did have a V&H programmer installed by V&H at the JP cycle facility in Sturgis in 2009 but it caused all kinds of havoc with my bike. Stalling, hard start, drop in hp and torque, FI light on all the time etc. I took it back twice for programming but they were unable to find a program that was acceptable. JP Cycle took the programmer back and refunded me. I have run ever since then with the stock FI and no issues. If anything, plugs and pipes show a bit rich. We are at some altitude here so that may make a difference....?
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2016
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Discussion Starter #5
Which one did you install?

And do you also have aftermarket air intake and pipes?
Hey Smed.. DynoJet PC lll USB. I have an intake and Hard Kromes 3" exhaust. I found a program for that and installed it. Did a pretty good ride today, about 800 km, bike ran really good overall, little hard to start sometime, had to give slight throttle to get it to fire sometimes.

I'm thinking if I'm going to see any real benefits from this thing, it needs to go on a dyno

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Bike Of The Year Winner, 2012
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Hey Smed.. DynoJet PC lll USB. I have an intake and Hard Kromes 3" exhaust. I found a program for that and installed it. Did a pretty good ride today, about 800 km, bike ran really good overall, little hard to start sometime, had to give slight throttle to get it to fire sometimes.

I'm thinking if I'm going to see any real benefits from this thing, it needs to go on a dyno

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which intake ya got?

What map did you use?
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2016
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Discussion Starter #7
Smed, I'm using my custom made air cleaner, I'd say in line with a big thunder I guess.
I loaded the map for the 3" Hard Kromes and the big thunder, but I noticed last night that there is one for European models with 3" Hard Kromes and a hyper charger. When I compare the maps, I see that the one I have loaded now has a lot of fuel pulled in most of the ranges, yet the Euro map has fuel added for all the ranges. I was going to try and get it loaded tonight and take a rip.

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Best results come when you get the bike dyno'ed. Anything less is just a guess.

You run a fuel processor because pipes and an intake introduce more air into the system. Since our bikes have a very basic mapped fuel injection system; it doesn't automatically adjust sufficiently enough for that extra air; so we have to give it a bit of a boost. That's the "why". But the only way to really and truly know is to get it dyno'ed. A dyno tuner can tell you whether your bike actually needs the fuel processor, and can get your processor dialed in so it makes the most power. Who doesn't want more power?
 

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Bike Of The Year Winner, 2012
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What romans said...

rocnrol, I kind of remember the write up you did with that filter.. was cool.

Did you actually remove the entire stock intake? Or just modified how the air filter is attached?
 

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I'm running the same processor, same pipes, and a BAK...the shop that did it for me loaded the stock maps and it was better, but not by much...got lucky and they had a traveling dyno crew in the following week...picked up an extra 19HP at the wheel with their tune.
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2016
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Discussion Starter #11
What romans said...



rocnrol, I kind of remember the write up you did with that filter.. was cool.



Did you actually remove the entire stock intake? Or just modified how the air filter is attached?


I bought an aftermarket intake to get the adaptor to the throttle body, then just made a backing plate and put on the element. So there's nothing left of the stock intake.


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BOTM Winner, April 2016
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Discussion Starter #12
Smed, I'm using my custom made air cleaner, I'd say in line with a big thunder I guess.
I loaded the map for the 3" Hard Kromes and the big thunder, but I noticed last night that there is one for European models with 3" Hard Kromes and a hyper charger. When I compare the maps, I see that the one I have loaded now has a lot of fuel pulled in most of the ranges, yet the Euro map has fuel added for all the ranges. I was going to try and get it loaded tonight and take a rip.

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Well.... That Euro map was horrible. You could just tell it was over fueling, it wa popping on deceleration, which it wasn't doing before, it was idleing like crap. I reinstalled the original map. I'm taking a customer out for a ride/lunch today, so I'll see if this original map works like it did last weekend. Overall I did like it.


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BOTM Winner, November 2016
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I installed the PC III yesterday and right away I realized my 2000 did not like the mounting position for the box. I nearly destroyed it on the first ride as it became lodged in between the plastic battery cover and the shock (where the directions advised to locate) !!! Well CRAP ! Once I was able to pry it out it had cracked the plastic on the top of the PC and the cover for one of the ports was now missing. I then decided to mount it inside the tool compartment box located on the right side under the keyed side cover. Since the plastic was already broken I took my dremel tool and removed the two small tabs on the bottom to allow the PC to fit inside the tool compartment. I then dremeled a small notch to allow for the wiring to exit. Bike did not want to start after install then I researched and found out I needed to hit the starter button right after I turned the switch on. If you wait till the fuel pump/injectors cycle and shut off then the PC will hibernate and the bike will spin over forever and start slowly or not start. Just wanted to add my two cents worth.
I tried to add a couple of pics but it would not allow me ! As soon as I have enough posts maybe I can add pics. I also removed smog and no more back firing !!! FI mod as soon as I find a resistor.
 

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I ran my V2k on PERFEXPERT and it came up with 93hp with 131 ft/lb torque as average of running the app 3 times.

I'm too chicken-sht to run and full throttle 1/4 mile run I got to 103mph and backed off. Getting a good hole shot is also harder than it looks.

I'll use the dyno numbers as a base make then rent Dobecks SAFR diagnostic tool to dial it in.

I just installed a Dobeck EJK on my V2k , right now I have old Britt pipes with factory air. I'm waiting on Tornado thunder kit(anyday) and some V and H powershots (Thurs). Pulled the 2nd butterflies and resister will be here tomorrow for mod.
I pulled all of the PAIR plumbing and capped off.

The EJK settings from factory are close. I'm not going to do any tweaking until I get final set up.

So far definitely better cruise idol and pull when cracking throttle.
 

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BOTM Winner, November 2016
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Hey Smed.. DynoJet PC lll USB. I have an intake and Hard Kromes 3" exhaust. I found a program for that and installed it. Did a pretty good ride today, about 800 km, bike ran really good overall, little hard to start sometime, had to give slight throttle to get it to fire sometimes.

I'm thinking if I'm going to see any real benefits from this thing, it needs to go on a dyno

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk
I had the same hard starts until I read you need to hit the start button while the fuel pump/injectors are still cycling. I found the info on DynoJet's web site.
 

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Bike Of The Year Winner, 2012
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I had the same hard starts until I read you need to hit the start button while the fuel pump/injectors are still cycling. I found the info on DynoJet's web site.

Hmm.... I don't think I ever had that problem.

But.. I put the PC on it the day i bought it.. that was almost 12 years ago... so the way it is now, is really all I know/remember.

Maybe it does start hard, but I don't have anything to compare it to.
 

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BOTM Winner, November 2016
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Hmm.... I don't think I ever had that problem.

But.. I put the PC on it the day i bought it.. that was almost 12 years ago... so the way it is now, is really all I know/remember.

Maybe it does start hard, but I don't have anything to compare it to.

Before the PC III I would turn the switch on and after the fuel pump cycled I would then hit the start button. The starter would turn over about 2 or 3 times and the bike would fire right up every time. After the PC III, same start cycle, it required the starter turning over several times and then the bike would start and I had to give it a little throttle to help it run. If I hit the starter during the fuel pump cycle it starts every time and only turns over 1 maybe twice and fires right up. With the delete of the A.I.S. and tubing ( I tried the marble mod w/ little success ) along with the PC III I no longer have the back firing. :) By the way great looking bike !!!!!!!
 

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BOTM Winner, April 2016
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425 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I installed the PC III yesterday and right away I realized my 2000 did not like the mounting position for the box. I nearly destroyed it on the first ride as it became lodged in between the plastic battery cover and the shock (where the directions advised to locate) !!! Well CRAP ! Once I was able to pry it out it had cracked the plastic on the top of the PC and the cover for one of the ports was now missing. I then decided to mount it inside the tool compartment box located on the right side under the keyed side cover. Since the plastic was already broken I took my dremel tool and removed the two small tabs on the bottom to allow the PC to fit inside the tool compartment. I then dremeled a small notch to allow for the wiring to exit. Bike did not want to start after install then I researched and found out I needed to hit the starter button right after I turned the switch on. If you wait till the fuel pump/injectors cycle and shut off then the PC will hibernate and the bike will spin over forever and start slowly or not start. Just wanted to add my two cents worth.

I tried to add a couple of pics but it would not allow me ! As soon as I have enough posts maybe I can add pics. I also removed smog and no more back firing !!! FI mod as soon as I find a resistor.


This is initially where I wanted to put mine, but it didn't want to close, mabey I'll revisit this


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BOTM Winner, April 2016
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Discussion Starter #20
Before the PC III I would turn the switch on and after the fuel pump cycled I would then hit the start button. The starter would turn over about 2 or 3 times and the bike would fire right up every time. After the PC III, same start cycle, it required the starter turning over several times and then the bike would start and I had to give it a little throttle to help it run. If I hit the starter during the fuel pump cycle it starts every time and only turns over 1 maybe twice and fires right up. With the delete of the A.I.S. and tubing ( I tried the marble mod w/ little success ) along with the PC III I no longer have the back firing. :) By the way great looking bike !!!!!!!
I did a deliberate attempt with these two scenarios, Preach is 100% right! hit starter while system is cycling, starts right away, wait until the cycle is done, bike just wants to turn over. Need to crack the throttle a tad for it to fire

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