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Discussion Starter #1
I started to have issues with my ’05 VN2000. When under hard acceleration around 4500 – 5000 best I can guess the power completely drops off then about a second or less the power comes back like nothing happened. Seems to be when it is colder and right now it just happens at the worst time (cornering or passing) but have yet to duplicate in“test” acceleration. I have never had any issues with the bike and it has almost 30,000 miles on it, I bought new in ’07, the engine and exhaust are stock. Bike does not sit in the garage during winter if the roads are clear it is out on the road; have over 450 miles in the last two weeks so I don’t think it is bad gas.

Any idea on why this would be happening?
 

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power

It sounds like you are "bouncing off" the rev limiter. do you have a tach? Are you guessing the rpms. My bike did the same until i bought a tach. You'd be surprised how short of time it takes to hit 51-5200. My gues is you are over reving
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It sounds like you are "bouncing off" the rev limiter. do you have a tach? Are you guessing the rpms. My bike did the same until i bought a tach. You'd be surprised how short of time it takes to hit 51-5200. My gues is you are over reving
I have hit the limiter before but this is a total drop in power. Trust me after 2 1/2 years I have hit the limiter a few times and it is nothing like this, it will throw you forward and then when it comes back on it throws you back. Yes if you are fast enough you can drop the throttle but it is not as easy as you think remember I'm under hard acceleration and the power is only lost for second or less.

I guess it could be tied to the limiter cutting out and not functioning normally.

Thanks for the feedback,

Mike
 

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Sounds like something in the fuel or inlet tract. Maybe a clogged or dirty air filter, choke/cold start system not fully off, fuel filter if there is one.
 

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miss

Another long shot, are the plugs still original? If it's in the filter, thats part of the fuel pump in the tank. Also could be a wire going bad
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys,

I was going through the manual and it could only be about a dozen things... lol

I think you guys are right I will start with the easy stuff, air filter (has been replaced) plugs, and some of the easier things.

I was looking at the "Vehicle-down Sensor" that would do something very similar to what I'm talking about;

From the manual:
Incorrect installation of the vehicle-down sensor
could cause sudden loss of engine power. The
rider could lose balance during certain riding situations,
like leaning over in a turn, with the potential
for an accident resulting in injury or death. Ensure
that the down sensor is held in place by its bolt as
shown.

I think that because it is more prone to do it when it is cold it is not the sensor but what they describe is what I'm feeling and it is not a good one, sudden loss then back on and fast so you better be holding on. I guess until I figure it out I better not get on it too hard. Better do some more testing, going to be in the 50's this week so I might not freeze working on the bike.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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miss

could be riding in that cold of winter, there might be a lean-put condition. This is where you miss the good ole days where you could choke it a little to see if it cleans up. Now to do that, you need a power commander and richen it up
 

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I believe that the vehicle down sensor requires a "key on, key off" sequence to reset, so not likely the problem.
I would do, or have done, a fuel pressure test and a fuel pump volume test.
This will check out many aspects of the system... plugged filter, low injector pressure, bad fuel pressure regulator, possible bad pump, pinched or collapsed fuel line, etc.
It sounds as if fuel demands cannot be met when they are high, so this is the test.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update

Great info, I don't know why I didn't do this before but you can learn from my mistakes.

I have the manual... hey why don’t I look up how to do the Self-Diagnosis? Well I did and this is what I have found.

Error -- Problem
12 -- Inlet air pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
41 -- Injector #1 malfunction, wiring open or short
42 -- Injector #2 malfunction, wiring open or short
62 -- Subthrottle valve actuator malfunction, wiring open or short

Sounds like I'm losing a ground that takes all of that out but I will have to decipher the manual or I have that many problems.
 

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Unless the FI light is currently on, those codes are historical.
Now, have you owned this bike from new?
Has the FI light ever come on for you for no explainable reason?
If not, those codes look suspiciously like someone running the engine whilst troubleshooting; possibly for the very problem that you are having.
If the FI light does not come on when this problem happens, I would not put to much stock in those codes.
A fuel pressure test would still be my first line of attack.

Post back
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Unless the FI light is currently on, those codes are historical.
Now, have you owned this bike from new?
Has the FI light ever come on for you for no explainable reason?
If not, those codes look suspiciously like someone running the engine whilst troubleshooting; possibly for the very problem that you are having.
If the FI light does not come on when this problem happens, I would not put to much stock in those codes.
A fuel pressure test would still be my first line of attack.

Post back
The FI is off.
Yes I have owned it from new.
The FI has not come on that I'm aware of.
I wish I was able to look down when this happens but it is under hard acceleration so I'm not sure if the light will stay on if it is triggered.

I have dropped it off at the local shop to see if the can do some testing as I don't have the equipment to test the fuel.

I'm going to be out of town for two days so I will have to see what happens after I get back.

I will update later with the status so if someone else has this they can at least know what I have been through.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is your V2k a California model? If so crack the gas cap open and try it.
let me know the results.
Bare
Not the California model.

I will update you with what I find.
 

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The FI light should stay on "at least" until the key is shut off, so no worry to look down and try and catch it.
The fuel pump volume test will prove or discount any possible venting issues.
 

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Error -- Problem
12 -- Inlet air pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
41 -- Injector #1 malfunction, wiring open or short
42 -- Injector #2 malfunction, wiring open or short
62 -- Subthrottle valve actuator malfunction, wiring open or short
I'll bet you a hundred it's an issue with the electronic ignition control module - by the way you're describing the sudden cut out/cut in scenario. Most likely thing I can think of that would give you all 4 codes at once... they all are reliant on the signal from the ICM. The ICM is probably having an issue with the RPM frequency input. might even be the connector. If it's at the dealer they could try one off the shelf on the test ramp.

Clay
 

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I'll bet you a hundred it's an issue with the electronic ignition control module - by the way you're describing the sudden cut out/cut in scenario. Most likely thing I can think of that would give you all 4 codes at once... they all are reliant on the signal from the ICM. The ICM is probably having an issue with the RPM frequency input. might even be the connector. If it's at the dealer they could try one off the shelf on the test ramp.

Clay
Sorry, no on that. The ECM monitors the collector voltages on the respective drivers to set these particular codes. Does not involve ignition system.
Not saying that he does not have an ECM issue; just would not be first on my list of checks for this particular problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update

I guess I’m not very good at describing the problem because after the shop went though it they were able to reproduce the problem. The codes had nothing to do with it, might have come from when they did other service on the bike or who know but they are cleared now.

Are you ready for what is wrong? Transmission, the problem happens is 2nd and 3rd gear as it has never caused me a problem in 5th and I don’t ever remember it being an issue in 4th with 1st being so short I don’t think it ever happened in 1st. The mechanics are confident that that is “coming out of gear” they believe that it is part #13139 (Shifter, Output) that is for 2nd and 3rd.

Before you think they are just trying to get money out of me, they are covering this under an extended warranty that I purchased so there should be no cost to me. I just never thought that if something slipped it would catch again under hard acceleration. Well it is in the shop as of yesterday with just over 30,000 miles on her so they will know more on Tuesday when they open her up. Will update the post when I get more information but I will be out of town again next week so hopefully next weekend.

Have to get some work done on my KLX 300 now that I don’t have my VN2K to ride for a couple of weeks <G>

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Jumping out of gear....that is something I would have never thought of. That is a shortfall of long distance troubleshooting.
It sounds like the shop has seen this before. It could be a major job with my worry that there is shrapnel in the sump.
Good luck and I hope that it turns out well!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
so, did they get her fixed?
Yes they did fix it, I still had to pay some as Kawasaki said it was from owner abuse but they said the same thing when my tank cracked on my KLX300 just sitting in the garage and I'm not the only one with that problem. The mechanic asked if I had ever dropped it as sometimes things can get bent and cause problems such as this. I am the original owner so it has never been dropped unless during shipment but that was out of my control. The dealer was willing to work with me and I now have 4K miles (34K total) after the work and she runs like she did before the problem.

Sorry took so long to reply I had to get some pictures for you to see.

Pictures are of second Gear, third is in about the same condition just can't get a good picture of it. Forth is a little worn and 5 gear is fine. You can see the shift fork for second and third is burnt but that was because when it came out of gear the fork rubbed against it causing it to burn.





 
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