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I have done a redneck airbox mod....


{photo shamelessly swiped from Refugio at the other forum}

And I have done a full debaffle.....


{again with a stolen photo, this time from predfan}

And lastly, I have removed the secondary throttle plates {thank you, Baitis!}
(no pictures to steal, sorry)

Now, for some strange reason, my bike is running hot. Can you believe that? I was wondering what my options are to increase the fuel so I am not running lean anymore, other than purchasing an after-market fuel processor/managment. I am a tightwad, and would rather not spend the ~$200 plus if I don't have to.

Thanks, y'all.
 

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If your bike is running lean - and it might be with those mods, then you're going to HAVE to go with a fuel processor IMHO...
Now...whether or not it's running "lean" is a subject for much debate. Your problem might be that you're running your bike a little harder, now that you've uncorked your exhaust, diddled with your intake, and are basking in the warm glow of Vulcan studliness, or the weather might be warmer now...or whatever.
Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure is to dyno your bike at a dealer - or whatever other means they have of looking at your bikes F/A mix ($$$) or you can look at the spark plugs (free-but not definitave in determining your F/A mix.)

IMHO - a $200 fuel processor will be cheaper than engine repair if you ARE running lean.... BUT!!! I've not modified this bike enough to warrant a fuel integrator - so I dunno. A lot of others out there have, and most seem to bolt a fuel box on their bike when they've reached your stage of modifications.

(EDIT: I do like that airbox mod!!) :D

Good Luck!
 

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keep eyes open on Ebay for cheaper, 2nd hand fuel processors. Bought my first one for 50 bucks shipped from a guy that didn't have a 900 anymore.
 

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You sure it's running lean and those holes just aren't letting the hot air get to you now? Without a processor you'll have to tape up some of those holes if the plugs look lean.
 

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If you are a vet, Dobek offers a discount for their Techlusion and Electronic Jetkit processors. I got mine for $150. It still isn't cheap, but it isn't $200 plus either.
 

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You are definitley running lean. IMHO. Fuel helps regulate the temp of the bike, and just openeing the exhaust or just openeing the intake (some) won't usually hurt the fuel mixture too much. However, doing a Full Debaffle as well as opening up the intake as much as you have will allow so much air through (great for power) that the fuel is not able to cool down the jugs each time it is sprayed into them since there is so much air being run through. Your optins are to close up some of the in and out of the airflow, or buy a Fuel processor to add more fuel.

My previous bike was an air/ oil cooled 1400. I added drag pipes, and wide open K&N pod air filters for maximum air flow. I tried it for a short day, and it could NOT handle the extra air flow without getting hot. That bike was still running dual (albeit seperate) carbs, and once I re-jetted (increasing the size of the needles that allow fuel into the carburators which in turn adds more fuel to the jugs for combustion)-- The Beast was awakened, and I had Zero heat issues from there on out.
 

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You are definitely running lean. IMHO. Fuel helps regulate the temp of the bike, <snip!!>....
I've been rolling that around in my head some...(there's room, I know...:D)
Our bikes are both air and water cooled. According to the manual - if I remember correctly---The fans kick on around 212, and back off again around 195 (all +/-). OK...so how lean is too lean? How hot is too hot? If the slide rule pushers at Kawi iron works built this thing to run in a certain operating band, and your temperature light does not illuminate - or stay illuminated - then is the bike really running too hot?

I'm a twidget, which means I do wires and circuits. I did buy a fuel integrator for my other bike when I did similar mods, because I'm not going to let a $200 expense hazard a $16,000 bike...OK...maybe only 10,000 now...but still....:cool: I did pick up about 5RWHP (estimated) from the fueler, which was welcome, and my bike runs noticeably better with the box installed.

My (current) theory is that running overly lean will radically increase your exhaust temperature - and while it might take a while for that to manifest itself in engine coolant temperature woes (which is what the thermostat - and presumably the temp light is looking at) I'm not enough of a wrench to have all that figured out. We cyclists are sometimes a worrysome bunch, so...how lean is too lean?
How hot is too hot? :rolleyes:

Still....I'll be buying a fuel integrator when I mod my pipes. Even a $7,000 bike is worth the $200.

JMHO...:cool:
 

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I've been rolling that around in my head some...(there's room, I know...:D)
Our bikes are both air and water cooled. According to the manual - if I remember correctly---The fans kick on around 212, and back off again around 195 (all +/-). OK...so how lean is too lean? How hot is too hot? If the slide rule pushers at Kawi iron works built this thing to run in a certain operating band, and your temperature light does not illuminate - or stay illuminated - then is the bike really running too hot?

I'm a twidget, which means I do wires and circuits. I did buy a fuel integrator for my other bike when I did similar mods, because I'm not going to let a $200 expense hazard a $16,000 bike...OK...maybe only 10,000 now...but still....:cool: I did pick up about 5RWHP (estimated) from the fueler, which was welcome, and my bike runs noticeably better with the box installed.

My (current) theory is that running overly lean will radically increase your exhaust temperature - and while it might take a while for that to manifest itself in engine coolant temperature woes (which is what the thermostat - and presumably the temp light is looking at) I'm not enough of a wrench to have all that figured out. We cyclists are sometimes a worrysome bunch, so...how lean is too lean?
How hot is too hot? :rolleyes:

Still....I'll be buying a fuel integrator when I mod my pipes. Even a $7,000 bike is worth the $200.

JMHO...:cool:
Have you ever found a wire coming off of a breaker that had become brittle because it wasn't tightened properly and the current caused the wire, at that point, to heat up so much it failed? Consider your exhaust valve to be in the same boat. The only way it can get rid of the heat from all that hot gas passing by is to stop briefly when it's fully closed and radiate away some of that heat. Now take an overly lean mixture, burning hotter than normal, will the valve have enough time to safely radiate the heat away from itself or will it start failing on the edges of the tulip and eventually fail to seal properly. Spark plugs suffer the same fate when the electrodes start to burn away. The cooling system, whether it's air cooled or liquid cooled can't help. Going one step further, while these components are failing and glowing red hot, when a fresh charge of air-fuel comes into the combustion chamber the red hot parts set it off before it should and tries to send the piston/crankshaft in the opposite direction. Detonation is the word used most often.
 
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