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Dear Ponch,
Thanks for the info on the wires! I'm installing a Kawasaki light bar on my 2K, it has an on-off switch on the bar. The instructions tell me to tap into the low beam wire in the headlight bucket and ground to the triple tree, the result will be no running lights on high beam. Soooo, I've decided to wire direct to the battery with an in line fuse then relay as you instructed. The factory bulbs in the bar are H3 25W x 2 = 50W/12 = 4-5 amp. What size fuse should I install? Is it required that the relay max amp match the fuse? I was also thinking of jumping up to 50W H3's in the light bar about 9 amp draw. I also plan on installing an 80/100 in the headlight. Have any words of wisdom? I have zero experience in wiring relays, lights etc.
 

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Hi Curm,

I'm not Ponch, but my .02....
For reliability, I would fuse at 50% to 100% of the current draw. For 4-5 amp, a 10 amp fuse, for 9, a 15. It is important to conservatively size the wire for the load and if you do, a short should have no trouble quickly blowing the fuse. AWG #14 should be sufficient in either case. If you can find it "marine" wire is good. It typically has many fine strands and is quite flexible and fatigue resistant. It is also "tinned" which inhibits corrosion. The insulation is also usually rated to a fairly high temperature. It may have been mentioned, but be sure to place the fuse as close to the battery as possible.

The relay should be rated to *at least* the maximum current draw, for reliability double it. Compared to AC, DC can be a problem for relays. Since AC goes to zero volts 120 times/second, any switching arc is extinguished at that point. Not so for DC and if the relay contact gap and size are too small, a switching arc can sometimes sustain itself after the contact opens. Again, if you can find one, use a relay specified for the desired current at DC.

When I looked at my 06 V2K headlight wiring, I decided the wire size might work for 80/100, but would be very marginal in size.

I don't have experience with them, but an HID refit might be a good option for the headlight. Lots of light for much less current. I just mounted a pair of 2" HID running lights and each 30 watt light looks as bright (or more) than the stock high beam. Still need to try them at night. Between the cold and snow, night riding has not happened since the install. :(

Woody
 

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Just an FYI on upgrading the bulbs in the lightbar to 50W each. One of the first things I did when I got my V2K was to install a National Cycle lightbar that came stock with 2 X 35W bulbs. All was well until I decided to upgrade to 50W bulbs and then I found out my bike wouldn't start up after shutdowns on long rides. Evidently the battery wasn't charging up properly because of the increased electrical load due to the 50W bulbs. And this was on a brand new bike with no other added electrical accessories. So I went back to the 35W bulbs and haven't had any problems since.
 

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Just an FYI on upgrading the bulbs in the lightbar to 50W each. One of the first things I did when I got my V2K was to install a National Cycle lightbar that came stock with 2 X 35W bulbs. All was well until I decided to upgrade to 50W bulbs and then I found out my bike wouldn't start up after shutdowns on long rides. Evidently the battery wasn't charging up properly because of the increased electrical load due to the 50W bulbs. And this was on a brand new bike with no other added electrical accessories. So I went back to the 35W bulbs and haven't had any problems since.
Hmmmm. I did exactly the same thing (upgrading to 50w) and my battery has been fine and my lights are on all the time?
 

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Hmmmm. I did exactly the same thing (upgrading to 50w) and my battery has been fine and my lights are on all the time?
Maybe you guys could share how you wired them. Did you both use relays and switches and what hot circuit did you use?
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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there is the right way and then there is every other way

Here's how I did mine mine.
Cruzier, Bingo! this is the right way. The white/blue acc wire connection is available under the seat at the rear of the shock where the wiring harness connects to the fender. This is were you "steal" power for the switched "trigger" circuit.
 

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...And this is how I did mine. As I believe Poncho said, I picked up the battery power from the acc power pigtail. The toggle switch is mounted in the cowling and lets me select the driving lights on either high -or- low beam. Everything but the fuse is in the headlight cowling.
Sorry some of the text is hard to read - I shrunk the pix a lot.

Woody
 

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P.S.

It is my understanding that some state vehicle inspections require some aux lights to be enabled only on low beam. There seems to be some uncertainty between driving and fog lights, so... The (somewhat hidden) toggle gives me an option.

Woody
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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wood, did you ground your coil at the headlight bucket or did you connect it to the - ground wire in the bucket?

reason is, grounding to the frame, tho it works is not best method. I've read elsewhere that particulary in the front end assembly, frame grounding can cause the bearings in the steering stem to pit as they are in the path of the ground connection. Best to use the ground lead.
 

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I also found a blue/white wire under the gas tank. Does this serve the same purpose. It seemed to be hot all the time though.
 

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Right you are, Ponch. I soldered, sealed, and shrink tubed taps to the wires at the back of the headlight connector (Hi/Lo/Gnd) and ran #14 (hot and gnd) back to the battery accessory pigtail for the new lighting supply. Fused there.
Also...
Don't ya just love the guys who ground their trailer lights through the hitch ball. I guess the blinky tail lights do command attention ;)

Thanks for the comment.
Woody
 
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