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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys,

Sorry for maibe asking 100th time the same question .. i tried using the search but was not able to find anything
I have a 2009 VN 900 SE with VH slash-cut staggerds and K&N replacement air filter and iridium plugs.
I also checked the PC website and found nothing for my setup.
Could you please send me a map that you are using and works fine for the above setup ? If it's not possible to post it here i can send a mail trough PM to put it there
While cruising just with the pipes and stock airfilter it pops hard on decel .. lean i think .. with added K&N it must be even leaner ..
I drilled the pipes and fitted the O2 sensors back but still same pop on decel
Please help
Many thanks
 

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Hello guys,

Sorry for maibe asking 100th time the same question .. i tried using the search but was not able to find anything
I have a 2009 VN 900 SE with VH slash-cut staggerds and K&N replacement air filter and iridium plugs.
I also checked the PC website and found nothing for my setup.
Could you please send me a map that you are using and works fine for the above setup ? If it's not possible to post it here i can send a mail trough PM to put it there
While cruising just with the pipes and stock airfilter it pops hard on decel .. lean i think .. with added K&N it must be even leaner ..
I drilled the pipes and fitted the O2 sensors back but still same pop on decel
Please help
Many thanks
I do not have your setup so wrong map sorry.
I can tell you how to kill the decel pop COMPLETELY if you want, and it works with all maps.

The zero throttle column in the software will show zeros all the way down.
Change the zero throttle column to the following.
begging at 500 rpms,
0 at 500 rpms
1 at 750 rpms
1 at 1000 rpms
1 at 1250 rpms
1 at 1500 rpms
fill the rest of the zero column with 25
Load the changed map and you are good to go.

This of course assumes you have already "MARBLED the Garthog".
 

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I'd love to help you out as I have basically the same setup, except I have a PCV instead of a PC3. Good luck. You can also call Dynotech and they can help you with the setup. They were really helpful when I called about getting the correct map. Oh and I have a classic.
 

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BOTM Winner, December 2013
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the best solution i have cound to decel popping is to close throttle COMPLETELY when decelerating....holding it open even just a tiny makes em pop....well thats at least is the case for my bike.....used to run stock pipes de-baffled now i run a cobra 2-1 and not marbled
 

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I'd love to help you out as I have basically the same setup, except I have a PCV instead of a PC3. Good luck. You can also call Dynotech and they can help you with the setup. They were really helpful when I called about getting the correct map. Oh and I have a classic.
Send me the map and I can translate it and will pass it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello,

I don't have it Marbled unfortunately
The PCV map should be fine if Bytehead can translate it to a PC3
Thank you

P.S I already emailed PC and they told me to get #M225-002 and start from there with a Dyno run, etc :(
 

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Hello,

I don't have it Marbled unfortunately
The PCV map should be fine if Bytehead can translate it to a PC3
Thank you

P.S I already emailed PC and they told me to get #M225-002 and start from there with a Dyno run, etc :(
Get er done then, Without marbling the pop kill fix will make things worse. You have to shut down the air flow into the exhaust pipes.
There are two air hoses to the Air Cleaner. The big hose is the air flow. Put a standard marble or a yellow wire nut in the hose and put it back on. This stops air from being injected into the exhaust pipe.
Send me your email and I can send you the map tonight.
 

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Map Sent.

Let us know how she works. I for one am impressed with the map, should work well for you.
 

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Hello,

I don't have it Marbled unfortunately
The PCV map should be fine if Bytehead can translate it to a PC3
Thank you

P.S I already emailed PC and they told me to get #M225-002 and start from there with a Dyno run, etc :(
ya i tried their suggestion and the one they say to use is garbage, WAY to rich, i got a map off Byte as well ( thanks! ), yet to try it out, hopefully this weekend if its a bit warmer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hello guys,

Just arrived home from the garage after a few hours of tweaking on the bike
They are some problems :(
After i finished the marble job and re-routed the oil hose which was blowing oil into the air filter box and installing the PC3 the bike is starting very slow ..
Before putting on the PC3 it was starting right away
Now i have to push the start button for a few good seconds until it starts
Did not install the new map yet, forgot to take the USB cable with me :(
Does that have to do anything with it ?
Also changed the air filter to K&N and oil to 20w-50
One more strange thing is that after i managed to start the bike and i go 1st gear the bike slowly starts moving without letting out the clutch .. and it does not want to get on neutral .. does it have anything to do with the PC3 or map ?
Is the oil a problem ? maibe i have put too much into it .. changed also the filter and it went in 3.5 liters
Thanks alot
 

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Hello guys,

Just arrived home from the garage after a few hours of tweaking on the bike
They are some problems :(
After i finished the marble job and re-routed the oil hose which was blowing oil into the air filter box and installing the PC3 the bike is starting very slow ..
Before putting on the PC3 it was starting right away
Now i have to push the start button for a few good seconds until it starts
Did not install the new map yet, forgot to take the USB cable with me :(
Does that have to do anything with it ?
Also changed the air filter to K&N and oil to 20w-50
One more strange thing is that after i managed to start the bike and i go 1st gear the bike slowly starts moving without letting out the clutch .. and it does not want to get on neutral .. does it have anything to do with the PC3 or map ?
Is the oil a problem ? maibe i have put too much into it .. changed also the filter and it went in 3.5 liters
Thanks alot
In my opinion YES the oil is a problem, unless you live in an extremely hot area, you should use 10W-40 Motorcycle oil only.
The clutch is bathed in oil, and thick, cold oil will cause the clutch plates to stick, like in honey.
If you decide to continue with the thicker oil give the bike plenty of time to warm up the oil.

Are you going to change the breather box or just the filter. The map is setup for a high flow breather box, the K&N filter that replaces the stock filter flows better but the box does not. The map you received will be rich in some areas. Change the breather box to receive the largest benefit.

Change the oil and install the map and the bike will start much better.:cool:

And If i remember correctly, the PCIII is powered by the injectors power, after the start up cycle the injector power is cut which means the PCIII power is cut, the PCIII then has to do another start up cycle before the bike will start. Try hitting the start button before the power up cycle is completed. Maybe one of the other PCIII guys will pop in, if any are left.

I have a PCV and it is wired to the battery for power so it stays powered up.

I will promise the map will completely kill the Decel Pop, but there might be a whiff of gas from the exhaust when used.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hello Byte,

Yes, it's quite hot here, last year we had 40+ celsius the whole summer and the engine was very hot, the fan was starting at the first traffic light, that is why i decided to go with the thicker oil
It is still spring so i will let it get warmer before use
Yes, the PC3 is powered to from the injectors, it was a nightmare to try and connect the grey wire to the spliced yellow with white strip without removing the fuel tank
Small question .. does the PC3 have problems with water ? where would be a good position for it to be installed ? i managed to find a tight spot under the seat instead of the toolbox
Thank you
 

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Hello Byte,

Yes, it's quite hot here, last year we had 40+ celsius the whole summer and the engine was very hot, the fan was starting at the first traffic light, that is why i decided to go with the thicker oil
It is still spring so i will let it get warmer before use
Yes, the PC3 is powered to from the injectors, it was a nightmare to try and connect the grey wire to the spliced yellow with white strip without removing the fuel tank
Small question .. does the PC3 have problems with water ? where would be a good position for it to be installed ? i managed to find a tight spot under the seat instead of the toolbox
Thank you
OK if the calculator is correct 40 C is around 105 F, I run in that myself and the 10W-40 works well.
OK just be aware on cool days the clutch will be a little sticky until it gets moving.
On starting.
Just try hitting the start before the power up cycle finishes and it will start quicker.

Keep your idle up above 950 with the thicker oil, below 900 and the top end will not get enough oil.

If the heat is that bad in the summer, there are some other options than the standard coolant.
I just bought a Mix for the standard coolant called Water Wetter for antifreeze. It is a surfactant to prevent bubbles from forming on the metal and allows better heat transfer. Not hot enough to check yet but have heard it works well.
Race bike's use a mix of bottled water and Water Wetter no antifreeze. Works well for race bikes in high heat but can not be used in cold weather.
Also keep an eye on the battery, high heat can kill them quick.

Under the seat in the toolbox is good, you can get to it there. A tip, leave the USB cable plugged in to the PCIII and coil and store it, next time you need to hook up it's ready.

Be sure to calibrate the THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, in the instructions, as this can create issues if not set correctly.

Did you remove the secondary throttle plates when you were in the air box.
Gives a better throttle response, no more punch, just jumps when you tell it to.

Have fun you will enjoy the new setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello Byte,

Yes, i am thinking to start using some kind of cooling aid, we don't have water wetter but we have something similar
What do you mean by hitting the start before the power up cycle finishes ? when i turn the key and the fuel pump is primed ? is that the power up cycle ?
How can i tell if the idle is above 950 .. we don't have a rpm clock ? can you see it in PC3 software ?
Do you have some documentation on how to calibrate THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR ?
No, i did not remove any throttle plates .. didn't know about this
 

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Hello Byte,

Yes, i am thinking to start using some kind of cooling aid, we don't have water wetter but we have something similar
What do you mean by hitting the start before the power up cycle finishes ? when i turn the key and the fuel pump is primed ? is that the power up cycle ?
How can i tell if the idle is above 950 .. we don't have a rpm clock ? can you see it in PC3 software ?
Do you have some documentation on how to calibrate THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR ?
No, i did not remove any throttle plates .. didn't know about this
As you know the pcIII gets power from the injectors. The power stops to the injectors after the fuel pump stops priming, power up cycle, actually called the POST, or pre operation system test, hit the starter during the POST and the PCIII will not have to reset again.

The PCIII software has a built in tach on the screen. Use it to set your Idle speed.

The instructions to calibrate the throttle position sensor are included with the operation user guide from Power Commander. Do read the instrunctions.

The secondary throttle plates is just a gimick to allow you to control the throttle instead of the ECU. The ECU likes to open the throttle slowly and smoothly. That can be a different day.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello,

I did some more reading on this issue and found that you might be able to user the stop/start red button to power up the PC3 again without having to start during the check period
Will try that also
Thank you for nice advices
 

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Hello,

I did some more reading on this issue and found that you might be able to user the stop/start red button to power up the PC3 again without having to start during the check period
Will try that also
Thank you for nice advices
That is an interesting concept. The red kill button will cause the pumps to reset again, so you could turn key on, wait for pressure, kill switch off, kill switch on, and start then. Fuel pumps would be at pressure so all would be good. I was just remembering what others had said they had started doing.

Let us know how it goes. Here's wishing you all the luck.

Stay Safe and RIDE HAPPY.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
More bad news
Holiday over, went to to bike, uploaded new map, bike doesn't start at all
Tried starting it while doing the check and fuel pump prime, nothing, tried what i'we read about switching the red button off and on .. nothing
I took it off .. started just fine
Will take it home, upgrade firmware, upgrade all software on it and try again
In the meantime i will run it without PC3 .. was running good with just only the Vance&Hines exhaust, now with K&N there is not much difference because the box in which the air filter is, it's limited on how much air can suck in by factory
Will check also the spark plugs from time to time for lean condition signs

Any advices would help .. anyone ran the vulcan 900 custom with aftermarket pipes and K&N air filter/stock box and no PC3 ? any problems ?
Thank you
 
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