Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I know there was a post about this; but its been some time and I'm seeing if opinions have changed...
I'm at 430 ODO and have ordered a Wix filter and 2 quarts of Amsoil metric 10w-40.

Any reason not to go synthetic? Or... should I order the Kawasaki oil kit and save the Amsoil for later?

Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
360 Posts
I did a second "break-in" oil change at 1000 miles after going through the rpm range a good few times. This was mainly for my own peace of mind, the thought there being that maybe some shavings could've materialized going full song the first few times.

Probably not needed, but if you decide to go that route, I'd save the expensive stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
I'll be on 1200 miles next time I'm home and I will do a change to full synth high performance oil.
Kawasaki dealer did mine at 490 with Kawasaki OEM.

This is based on everything I've read on this site and all other information I can find. It'll certainly do no harm and for me it's worth it for peace of mind and £45.00



Sent from my Lenovo TB-8704X using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
I use Rotella T6. It's full synthetic, JASO MA2 approved (what our manuals say we need), and it's extremely inexpensive and available at Walmart (or advance auto but it's like $8 more there.)
Its 5W-40, our manual says to go with 10W-40, but this makes no real difference. In theory it means it'll start up a little easier, it's a very small difference. I've used this oil on all my bikes and it's been great. I like getting full synthetic oil, but motorcycle specific stuff is really expensive, and regular car oil doesn't play nice with our clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I run synthetic oil in everything I own. I used a Kawasaki oil kit on my last change and it was synthetic. The bigger issue on first change though is torquing everything now that you've got some miles on it. It is often recommended to have the first change done at the dealer for this reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Full Synthetic is the Way to Go

There really is no comparison. The Amsoil will work beautifully in your vulcan and there is no reason to try another. It tests out better than any other oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
There really is no comparison. The Amsoil will work beautifully in your vulcan and there is no reason to try another. It tests out better than any other oil.
Out of curiosity, what test do you mean? I've always found it very hard to find tests on oil because you can't really see them working, plus with modern engines lasting basically forever as long as basic maintenance is done, it's even tougher!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
I use Rotella T6. It's full synthetic, JASO MA2 approved (what our manuals say we need), and it's extremely inexpensive and available at Walmart (or advance auto but it's like $8 more there.)
Its 5W-40, our manual says to go with 10W-40, but this makes no real difference. In theory it means it'll start up a little easier, it's a very small difference. I've used this oil on all my bikes and it's been great. I like getting full synthetic oil, but motorcycle specific stuff is really expensive, and regular car oil doesn't play nice with our clutch.
Same here. Great oil for a great price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
What I have learned. Synthetic is the way to go. But no one has mentioned that you should get yourself a set of crush washers and replace them every time you do an oil change. You are going to spend som $35-$60 on parts for the oil change and it doesn’t make sense not to buy a half dozen crush washers now for $3-5 on eBay or amazon and have them for ever oil change. Just one drippy washer will mak
e you spend $$$$$ detailing oil off the bike. And put you at risk of low oil levels.

Just a thought. I do it every oil change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I've seen the OEM crush washers ( GASKET,12X22X2, 11061-0417) for sale on Amazon and others and they're asking $2 -$3 or more... and I think those are sold as individual packs. Plus add shipping. These suckers are expensive!
I just bit the bullet and ordered 1/2 dozen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
......But no one has mentioned that you should get yourself a set of crush washers and replace them every time you do an oil change......Just one drippy washer will mak
e you spend $$$$$ detailing oil off the bike. And put you at risk of low oil levels....
45,000km, 11 oil changes on my VS using the same sump plug washer and not a drop was lost.

Torque it right and you have no problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I’m just not wanting to take that risk. It maybe the heat and wet of Florida. I ended up buying 10 for $4.00 on Wal-Mart website. Maybe it’s just for piece of mind. And I don’t use a torque wrench.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,112 Posts
Out of curiosity, what test do you mean? I've always found it very hard to find tests on oil because you can't really see them working, plus with modern engines lasting basically forever as long as basic maintenance is done, it's even tougher!
The only actual lab test done that I have seen were done by Amsol. In my experience (working as an R&D chemist for a Fortune 500 company) if it is paid for by the company touting the product, consider it suspect. They may or may not have conducted the test or are manipulating the data is such a way as to assure their product appears to be the best.

I don't know if Phillbert has found other, independent testing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,112 Posts
I’m just not wanting to take that risk. It maybe the heat and wet of Florida. I ended up buying 10 for $4.00 on Wal-Mart website. Maybe it’s just for piece of mind. And I don’t use a torque wrench.
Not using a torque wrench is as much a risk as not changing the washer, in my opinion. Get yourself an inexpensive torque wrench and look up on youtube how to calibrate it (or get one of these to calibrate it: [ame]https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-4-Digital-Adapter-4-147-6/dp/B004VYURT0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3PC8H8ENQKNT0&keywords=digital+torque+adapter&qid=1559926592&s=gateway&sprefix=digital+torque+a%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-3[/ame] ).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
I just did my first oil change using Amsoil. The book says 1.9 quarts, but this is actually far too much and put it WAY over the full mark, and with the engine running it started dripping black oil from the top. as this is a brand new bike, you can understand my panicking. I had to take the new filter back off twice to drain some and that put it right in between the low and full marks and the dripping stopped. I am no noob to doing an oil change, but instead of the 1.9 quarts the book says, I'd estimate it to be more around 1.6 or 1.7. With the Amsoil in it, the shifting is not only smoother but a lot quieter. I'll keep my eye on it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Yeah I put in the 2 quarts I had figuring the same about the .1 quarts, and even if it had been just the 1.9 it still would have been above the sight glass
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Put the cap on the sight glass! It will spray out otherwise, this is also your transmission, so you can’t use any regular type of oil(unless you like hard shifts, and burned clutches)

Make sure bike is level when looking through sight glass.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Uh, the cap IS on... I'm using oil rated for wet clutches and sold by the dealer, not my first rodeo =)
As for being level, using a rear mounted stand. On that note, from the dealer the oil was barely visible in the sight glass at all
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top