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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some of you know (and have been patiently waiting for this info) and some may not know, so here it is. Last year I hooked up a switch to turn the fan on before the ECU turns it on.

The Vulcans lose power due to the ECU retarding the ignition timing when the coolant temp gets up there, and on the Voyager/Vaquero this retard starts when the needle gets halfway between the middle and the next line. It is quite aggravating to take off from a stop and have the skoot stumbling with that loss of power. Pooey :mad:

So here is the info...remove the seat and the black plastic battery cover. On the left side of the skoot kinda buried a few inches below the left frame rail is a relay box with 5 plastic gang connectors, 2 large in a row and 3 smaller ones in a row.

The small gang plug at the rear of the relay box has a blue wire with a white stripe. This is the power wire to the fan when the fan relay is triggered by the ECU. This is the wire we will feed power to the fan from the switch.

To simplify things I connected a fused link directly to the positive post of the battery with a 10 amp fuse. This wire you will run to wherever you want to place your switch. My switch is located on the left side of my tank bib, it is a simple on/off switch. You will run a second wire from the switch to that blue/white wire previously mentioned. I originally used a scotch-lock type connector but that eventually failed, so I cut the wire and positively connected the wires together,

This hook up will allow the fan to be turned on at any time, ignition switch in ANY position. I have also installed 2 bright red LED's in my tank bib to remind me the fan is on as sometimes I forget to turn it off when I get on the hiway after I have been in slow speed traffic.

When I am in slow speed/stop-n-go traffic I turn the fan on BEFORE the needle gets to the halfway mark which keeps the needle from climbing into that area where the ignition retard/loss of power occurs.

Another option is to connect the switch to a power source that is hot when the ignition switch is in the ON position, thus allowing the fan to be switched on only when the ignition switch is in the on position.

It is so nice to never have the skoot operating in that "loss of power" mode. Living in S. Fla or any area where traffic can be heavy and the ambient temps up there will have these 1700's in that loss of power mode and that is just aggravating.

Sorry to take so long to post this info, many have been waiting.

RACNRAY
 

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Very interesting write up. I don't post much here but have learned a lot. Especially from you Ray. So maybe you could answer this question about the fan. I am not sure if you are familiar with the older Nomads or not but I had a 2004 1500 before the 1700. when I shut the bike down, if the engine temp was up, the fan would continue to run even after the ignition switch was turned off. The fan would run for however long it would take to cool the engine. I always wondered why they didn't do that with the 1700's. Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the temp rise a little right after the engine is shut down. In other words the heat would rise since there is no air movement cooling it down. Which in my mind could cause problems with the sensors not sensing correctly like sitting in traffic. Especially when restarting the engine, I have noticed it doesn't start like when it is cold or cooler.
I hope this makes sense
Bill
 

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ALRIGHT RAY! I knew you would come through for us! I don't care what the other guys say about you, you are okay! :D
 

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Very interesting write up. I don't post much here but have learned a lot. Especially from you Ray. So maybe you could answer this question about the fan. I am not sure if you are familiar with the older Nomads or not but I had a 2004 1500 before the 1700. when I shut the bike down, if the engine temp was up, the fan would continue to run even after the ignition switch was turned off. The fan would run for however long it would take to cool the engine. I always wondered why they didn't do that with the 1700's. Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the temp rise a little right after the engine is shut down. In other words the heat would rise since there is no air movement cooling it down. Which in my mind could cause problems with the sensors not sensing correctly like sitting in traffic. Especially when restarting the engine, I have noticed it doesn't start like when it is cold or cooler.
I hope this makes sense
Bill

Unless the water pump is running after shutoff, the fan is just going to cool the fluid in the radiator. It is also cooling the engine, but that's a side effect of air movement...


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Discussion Starter #7
Very interesting write up. I don't post much here but have learned a lot. Especially from you Ray. So maybe you could answer this question about the fan. I am not sure if you are familiar with the older Nomads or not but I had a 2004 1500 before the 1700. when I shut the bike down, if the engine temp was up, the fan would continue to run even after the ignition switch was turned off. The fan would run for however long it would take to cool the engine. I always wondered why they didn't do that with the 1700's. Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the temp rise a little right after the engine is shut down. In other words the heat would rise since there is no air movement cooling it down. Which in my mind could cause problems with the sensors not sensing correctly like sitting in traffic. Especially when restarting the engine, I have noticed it doesn't start like when it is cold or cooler.
I hope this makes sense
Bill
On many of the older Kawi's the fan would continue to run after the ignition was turned off, sportbikes included. You are correct about engine/coolant temps rising after engine shutdown, also called heat soak.
Why Kawi has not set up the 1700's fan operation the way previous models worked I don't know.

RACNRAY
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ray bought everything but wire, what size wire do you recommend? Thanks again for posting this.
I used 16 gauge.

It is so nice since I did this to my skoot to not have that loss of power when in slow/stop n go traffic. My switch stopped working recently (thats when I found a bad connection at the scotch lock I had used) and I felt that power loss for the first time in a long time. Boy had I gotten spolied!!

RACNRAY
 

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Looking at options for my senior moment lapses

Ray Like you I live in an area that gets really hot in Summer and has no real winter, do you know what trigger the fan eg it starts at 200 ohms resistance then as it gets hotter resistance falls and ecu tells fan to come on or is it the opposite.

Or
Is it direct from the thermostat and not through the ecu that the fan comes on?

I may have missed it but have you considered putting an inline resistor to trick the fan on earlier for?

Just asking as my auto electrician was going to have a play as well and didn't want to cover old ground. (this will also cost me less, lol)
 

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I wired a switch in Saturday. I went a slightly different route, in that I tapped in on the Accessory wire behind the right cover. I soldiered both that connection and the connection to the fan wire Ray pointed out. I mounted a marine toggle switch through the left forward portion of the plastic bib, then put a dark gray waterproof cover over it. Easy to get to while not being obtrusive in appearance, as the dark gray doesn't contrast. Now I don't have to worry about forgetting the switch position. I'm am so hot on some days by the time I get home from work that my brain is on auto-pilot and all I want to do is get in the shower, I KNOW I will forget to turn it off sometimes. Yesterday was the first time I tried it, verdict is still out on effectiveness. I have not changed out my stock cooling fluids either, that may dampen my results. I figure it can't make things any worse! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ray Like you I live in an area that gets really hot in Summer and has no real winter, do you know what trigger the fan eg it starts at 200 ohms resistance then as it gets hotter resistance falls and ecu tells fan to come on or is it the opposite.

Or
Is it direct from the thermostat and not through the ecu that the fan comes on?

I may have missed it but have you considered putting an inline resistor to trick the fan on earlier for?

Just asking as my auto electrician was going to have a play as well and didn't want to cover old ground. (this will also cost me less, lol)
The thermostatic switch is connected to the ECU. The resistance is near zero for the ECU to turn the fan on.

I wired a switch in Saturday. I went a slightly different route, in that I tapped in on the Accessory wire behind the right cover. I soldiered both that connection and the connection to the fan wire Ray pointed out. I mounted a marine toggle switch through the left forward portion of the plastic bib, then put a dark gray waterproof cover over it. Easy to get to while not being obtrusive in appearance, as the dark gray doesn't contrast. Now I don't have to worry about forgetting the switch position. I'm am so hot on some days by the time I get home from work that my brain is on auto-pilot and all I want to do is get in the shower, I KNOW I will forget to turn it off sometimes. Yesterday was the first time I tried it, verdict is still out on effectiveness. I have not changed out my stock cooling fluids either, that may dampen my results. I figure it can't make things any worse! :D
The main purpose of the switch is so the fan can be turned on BEFORE the temp gauge needle gets to the halfway point. On my skoot this prevents the coolant temp from climbing into the area where the ECU retards the timing and the 1700's suffer the power loss. If with the fan on the temps still rises then changing the coolant is the enxt step.

RACNRAY
 

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The main purpose of the switch is so the fan can be turned on BEFORE the temp gauge needle gets to the halfway point. On my skoot this prevents the coolant temp from climbing into the area where the ECU retards the timing and the 1700's suffer the power loss. If with the fan on the temps still rises then changing the coolant is the enxt step.
RACNRAY
Oh, I got that part Ray. My first shot at this yesterday was turning it on when I hit the off-ramp after 30 minutes of around 78mph down the Interstate, and right into a triple set of traffic lights. Needle didn't go as high as it usually does, but still close to 3/4. Mine typically runs at a hair past half. When I got on into downtown, it really seemed to be helping there, but for the first time in about FOREVER, not a single light caught me! The one time I wouldn't mind a red light (for testing purposes), I get green all the way!
 

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What kind of switch do I need to get. I know nothing about electrical.
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Just a simple two-pole toggle or push-button. You are switching 12 volts and less than 10 amp (that's the fuse size for the fan circuit) so there isn't much current. All you are doing is breaking a single wire, which is looping from whatever you want to use for the power source to the wire Ray identified. After saying all that, if you really know nothing about electrical, you may want to get a bud that does know a little to help out. You want to make sure connections are sound, wires are protected and routed in such a manner they won't get pinched or rub through (shorting out to ground will pop the fuse), and the switch is securely mounted. Did I miss anything?

I got to verify that this works for me as well today. My normal temp is about a needle-width over one half. Without the fan, the temp will pop up to 2/3 (the next mark) or a little over quick as a whip when I stop, and it takes forever to cool it back down to a half. With the fan on, it still heats up, but only half way between a half and 2/3, which seems to be enough to keep the ECU happy. And that makes me happy!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just a simple two-pole toggle or push-button. You are switching 12 volts and less than 10 amp (that's the fuse size for the fan circuit) so there isn't much current. All you are doing is breaking a single wire, which is looping from whatever you want to use for the power source to the wire Ray identified. After saying all that, if you really know nothing about electrical, you may want to get a bud that does know a little to help out. You want to make sure connections are sound, wires are protected and routed in such a manner they won't get pinched or rub through (shorting out to ground will pop the fuse), and the switch is securely mounted. Did I miss anything?

GOOD ADVICE JERRY!!

I got to verify that this works for me as well today. My normal temp is about a needle-width over one half. Without the fan, the temp will pop up to 2/3 (the next mark) or a little over quick as a whip when I stop, and it takes forever to cool it back down to a half. With the fan on, it still heats up, but only half way between a half and 2/3, which seems to be enough to keep the ECU happy. And that makes me happy!
GLAD TO HEAR...now when you get a chance get the factory coolant out of the skoot and get some better stuff, will certainly help either further.

RACNRAY
 

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GLAD TO HEAR...now when you get a chance get the factory coolant out of the skoot and get some better stuff, will certainly help either further.
RACNRAY
That will be after the PCV. After changing both the intake and the slip-ons, I know I'm running lean, thinking the PCV should be a priority. I'm just hoping that this condition isn't engine-threatening, but just annoying - a little rough on the spark plugs, a little extra heat and tolerating the after-fire sound effects.
 

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The thermostatic switch is connected to the ECU. The resistance is near zero for the ECU to turn the fan on.



The main purpose of the switch is so the fan can be turned on BEFORE the temp gauge needle gets to the halfway point. On my skoot this prevents the coolant temp from climbing into the area where the ECU retards the timing and the 1700's suffer the power loss. If with the fan on the temps still rises then changing the coolant is the enxt step.


Thanks Ray I'll pass this on
 

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Hi I have a fan question that is a bit off topic so I hope this does not offend but you all seem to have the knowledge I need.
Is there any way to tell if the fan / fan switch is working correctly? I have a 1600 Mean Streak. On hot days the fan would run for about 30 seconds after I shut down. It does not seem to be doing that this year. The Meany does not have a temp gage just an idiot light. I am planning a week trip and don't want to get stranded in northern Minnesota.

Thanks Carl
 
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