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I am getting ready to store my 900 and the stock oil filter is stuck on. I have replaced once in the spring of this year and just snugged it on. Has anyone found a good oil filter tool for Kawasaki filters or a good method to break a stuck one? Also what are you guys (or ladies) using as a replacement oil filter? I am going to replace the stock part number one (provided I get this one off) with a Purolator PureOne PL14612. Any thoughts?
 

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The best oil filter removal tools (I've found) for stuck filters is the strap and lever types. They are available at various places and online. If you are in a pinch you can use an old serpintine belt, or any belt or strap that's thin enough to fit between the filter and other surrounding items.

Wrap the strap around the filter and then wrap it around a handle of some sort and rotate (pull) the filter off. Try to get it near the base of the filter or they will colllaspe on you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks R_W_B,

I own many types and sizes but have not tried the strap type. This will be my next purchase (probably tomorrow) since I don't have an old belt to use. I hope it works for me. The vulcan 900 doesn't allow much room to get any tool with a lever on it so maybe I will have to try to make one as you stated.

Thanks again.
 

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If your looking for something quick and on the cheap, i usually just punture it with a screw driver all the way through and push up, or just squeeze it with a pair of channel locks, if the filter is scrap anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
MachU

Thanks, I may end up doing just that if all else fails. There are only so many tools to try. I never had to resort to this tactic but I guess there's a first time for everything. The 900 doesn't offer much room fo rany tools except attaching onto the top. Brackets, frame or sensor block the filter pretty much.

Thanks, may end your way.
 

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Mike he's right if you got room to turn the screwdriver that is the easiest. I've had so many applications where there just wasn't enough room to get a screwdriver in there and then turn it.

But either method you use try to get close to base, I've seen um collapse on me where I ended up tearing it literally to pieces before I got it loose.
 

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I am getting ready to store my 900 and the stock oil filter is stuck on. I have replaced once in the spring of this year and just snugged it on. Has anyone found a good oil filter tool for Kawasaki filters or a good method to break a stuck one? Also what are you guys (or ladies) using as a replacement oil filter? I am going to replace the stock part number one (provided I get this one off) with a Purolator PureOne PL14612. Any thoughts?
I use this spider wrench; especially since it is so small and lightweight. The cheap ones are to be avoided at all costs and it's worth the money to get one that costs more since the tool steel is better, the rubber grips are thicker and the higher end ones are top quality.

https://www.google.com/search?q=spider+oil+filter+wrench&aq=0&oq=spider+oil+&sugexp=chrome,mod=14&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys (R_W_B, MachU & Vulcan 41),

I will look into the strap as R_W_B suggested and the Habor Freight tool suggested by Vulcan 41, I have one similar to that one (which Vulcan 41 suggests) but it does not have the rubber grips on the end and it just slips around the end flats of the filter without gripping it. Perhaps this one would be work. I am going to have a great collection of oil filter tools. I only thing that that worries me that I can think of when using the screwdriver through the filter and getting close to the base, is knowing where the protruding block threaded boss ends so that not to damage it.

Appreciate all you responses.

Mike
 

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Thanks guys (R_W_B, MachU & Vulcan 41),

I will look into the strap as R_W_B suggested and the Habor Freight tool suggested by Vulcan 41, I have one similar to that one (which Vulcan 41 suggests) but it does not have the rubber grips on the end and it just slips around the end flats of the filter without gripping it. Perhaps this one would be work. I am going to have a great collection of oil filter tools. I only thing that that worries me that I can think of when using the screwdriver through the filter and getting close to the base, is knowing where the protruding block threaded boss ends so that not to damage it.

Appreciate all you responses.

Mike
Usually approximately half way into the filter and you should be good. Just remember that the further away you are from the threaded inlet the weaker and more flimsy your grip will be. Try putting vacuum caps on the tips of your spider wrench if you have any so that it will grip better. That is why I said the good ones have better rubber tips and they also do not fall off or break off. If not the old trick of a large screwdriver or large channel locks will do the trick and it's quite fun ripping it off to get even with the stubborn thing!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Commache,

I am willing to look at these also. I agree, seams the cheap tools tend to exactly that cheap, I have several, unfortunately.

Also read your reply in the G*** & Motorcycle forum post. Thank you for your service and glad you came out ahead with the two visitors to your shop. We need more like you.

Mike
 

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whoaru99,

I believe I got that tool same tool, and I like it, but the throw is limited because the oil sensor switch is in the way. I tried this tool and it grips well but I could not loosen the filter. It did crush the filter a bit, so maybe use this and the screwdriver would get it off.
 

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For the OEM filter you can get an exact fit "steel" cover oil remover that fits over top of the filter and you use a 3/8" ratchet to remove it. I found it to work great if you can get it on...tolerances are way too tight. The OEM one didn't fit an aftermarket one I purchased. They sell them in plastic as well...they don't work for removal...just keep slipping or crack.

I tried the spider ones, mine was without the rubber ends and that didn't work. Would just spin.

I tried many others but space is very limited and as such was unable to either get them on or enough room to remove the filter.

I ended up with the simple strap one. It's attached to the end of a square piece of straight pipe into which fits a 1/2" ratchet. This works great...simple and efficient. I use it as my "removal tool". I apply a new filter with the "plastic" cover type...fits a 3/8" ratchet. OK for installation at "torque" specifications.

As for filter replacement, I use the Fram replacement. Good quality and less expensive. I change my oil and filter frequently. I've had great results, no complaints.
 

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When you install the new filter, use some white lithium grease on the gasket. That will allow easy removal next time.
 

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This is what I use all the time. Actually just the big one. The little one stays in the house for the wife to open jars and such. http://www.lowes.com/pd_253674-16878-50540_0__?productId=1072405&Ntt=strap+wrench&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dstrap%2Bwrench&facetInfo=

I have also taken a shop rag and put over the filter and then put a metal strap style one (the one that Whoaru99 mentioned). I had to do this on my wife's Mitsubishi Eclipse once. I actually started to pick my self up off the ground with my feet in the bumper. It finally broke loose like that.
 

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For the OEM filter you can get an exact fit "steel" cover oil remover that fits over top of the filter and you use a 3/8" ratchet to remove it. I found it to work great if you can get it on...tolerances are way too tight. The OEM one didn't fit an aftermarket one I purchased. They sell them in plastic as well...they don't work for removal...just keep slipping or crack...
I had the same experience. Bought a plastic cap type at the local auto parts store and it just spun around the filter. Ended up buying a metal cap type at the bike dealership, tapped it on (lightly) with a rubber mallet so that it seated snuggly on the filter and it worked great. When you put the new filter on make sure you torque it to the proper specification (and no more) and you’ll be fine next time around.
 

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For the OEM filter you can get an exact fit "steel" cover oil remover that fits over top of the filter and you use a 3/8" ratchet to remove it. I found it to work great if you can get it on...tolerances are way too tight. The OEM one didn't fit an aftermarket one I purchased. They sell them in plastic as well...they don't work for removal...just keep slipping or crack.

I tried the spider ones, mine was without the rubber ends and that didn't work. Would just spin.

I tried many others but space is very limited and as such was unable to either get them on or enough room to remove the filter.

I ended up with the simple strap one. It's attached to the end of a square piece of straight pipe into which fits a 1/2" ratchet. This works great...simple and efficient. I use it as my "removal tool". I apply a new filter with the "plastic" cover type...fits a 3/8" ratchet. OK for installation at "torque" specifications.

As for filter replacement, I use the Fram replacement. Good quality and less expensive. I change my oil and filter frequently. I've had great results, no complaints.
I had a problem with the plastic cup slipping while taking off the original filter what I did what put a 1/4 sheet of sand paper in the cup. Tapped it onto the filter and it came right off.
 

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If I really need a tool, then I use a large pair of pliers that looks something like this:


I don't normally use it since I hand-tighten the filter and never had any leaks.
I grab the old filter and the new one and make them kiss each other on the rubber ring as I twist them clockwise/counter-clockwise (I know too much romance in the garage), that way the rubber on the new filter gets the proper amount of lubrication.
Afterward, I spin it on slowly until the filter makes contact with the engine and comes to a stop. At that point, I turn it (single hand) one full turn or until I can no longer turn it without turning purple (of course, whichever comes first).

I have used the same exact oil filter on 3 different make bikes and have been very happy: Hi-Flo 303 :)
- 2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom
- 2006 Yamaha Vmax
- 2003 Honda NightHawk CB750
 

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That's pretty much my replacement technique too. Never have torqued or wrench tightened an auto or motorcycle filter. Tight as I can get it by hand, although I try for purple. ;)
 
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