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I'm posting for first time as a newbie Hello to every one! OK now here is the situation my service contract expired last year , now I will change the oil and perform some miner services on my bike. beginning with this question do I need to remove the 2 plugs to drain the oil completely and oh my bike is an 06 ,2000 LT thanks.
 

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There are actually 3 plugs-- the two on the bottom of the engine that you see, and a third on the bottom of the clutch cover. All need to be removed to do the oil change. Be very careful when you put the one on the clutch cover back because it strips very, very easily. Just snug it up.

Instructions:

http://www.vn2000.com/documents/VN2000_oil_change.pdf

I don't do any elaborate leveling-- I just put a chunk of 2x4 under the kickstand for a little extra clearance and have had no issues. My opinion is to just skip that part.
 

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There are actually 3 plugs-- the two on the bottom of the engine that you see, and a third on the bottom of the clutch cover. All need to be removed to do the oil change. Be very careful when you put the one on the clutch cover back because it strips very, very easily. Just snug it up.

Instructions:

http://www.vn2000.com/documents/VN2000_oil_change.pdf

I don't do any elaborate leveling-- I just put a chunk of 2x4 under the kickstand for a little extra clearance and have had no issues. My opinion is to just skip that part.
If you do skip the drain plug on the clutch cover be careful and not overfill the motor with the new oil.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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oily to bed, oily to rise... and yor goil will go out w/ other guys!

Thanks for the info,it makes all the differance!
fatman, do all 3 plugs and the filter to get all(most) oil out of the bike. collect it if you can in a clean pan. Put ONLY 5 quarts oil back in the bike. No More than that. These bikes will blow all extra oil into the air filter box and then down the side of your bike and pipes.
Carefully measure your old oil and note how much came out. It should be 5qts or very close to it. Do this with each change and pay attention to how much oil your bike consumes.. if any at all. Never read or add oil when the motor is cold. The stick lies. If you have a tight motor you should never have to add any oil. just change it regularily. I like 5k cause its easy to see an remember nickels n dimes on the speedo. out, ponch
 

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....Never read or add oil when the motor is cold. The stick lies. ...
Are you saying the level on the stick is not consistent when the engine is cold?

When cold, my oil level sits right at the bottom line of the Add/Full range. This seems to correspond with about 1/4-1/2 way up the range when warmed up.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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the stik lies... actually its the oil isn't always in the pan

Are you saying the level on the stick is not consistent when the engine is cold? When cold, my oil level sits right at the bottom line of the Add/Full range. This seems to correspond with about 1/4-1/2 way up the range when warmed up.
the word consistant and this bikes oil readings should not be used in the same sentence... just kidding. your doing well to get readings that are.. reliable? 1/4-1/2 way up when hot is about right, what I have seen.
Others would get that low reading on a cold stick and add.. a quart?. we've read too many times what happens next. oil everywhere outside the motor.

I check the oil stick hot and cold looking for some sense of stability or reliability. it seems to be all over the map. reads high one time, low another, hot or cold doesn't seem to have any..."consistancy" reading the level marks.

I do know that I get an exact measured 5 qts out at every change interval 5k miles. I put only 5qts in and never add any. So, regardless of what that LIE'ing stick says, I've got a 5qt motor and have never blown any oil in the air box or out the rerouted crankvent hose.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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need to take my own advice.. new, better way to fix this

well, I did it. I was buzy changing oil n filter on the goose as I have pressed her into more service these last two weeks.. while I was being distracted with one bike, I attempted to read the oil level on the redbear'n. I wasn't getting a reading on the stick hot or cold.. so I added maybe 1/2 qt.? no big deal, I thought. I did ride the bear last evening w/o any oil issues.. the belt needs adjusting. This am checking both bikes when cold.. holy schmoly I'v got too much oil in the bear!:eek: when cold, she was most all the way up the stick, yikes!

ok, don't panic. what to do?:confused: I don't want to go thru draining the whole load of oil just to refill it. IDEA!! I pulled the plug on just the primary chain case and got maybe 1pt+/- out. check the oil level. still too high. run the motor a few minutes and drain that case again, another 1pt. Now she checks out fine on the oil level sticky thingy.

sheesh. I need to stick with my old plan and just leave that thing alone. 5qts in, 5k miles, 5qts out. This motorbike is the weirdest for oil checkology. out, ponch
 

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Speaking of oil

I am new to the forum and have a question about changing the oil in my 2004 VN2000. I have ~16,000 miles on it and have used 10W40 with Kawasaki filters each time I changed oil. Now I'm thinking about using a synthetic instead, and would like to replace the filter with a 3 1/2 in filter instead of the manufacturer's recommended filter. Does anybody else consider this a good idea? And, is there anything special about converting to a synthetic that should be done?:confused:
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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"isn't that special"?

I am new to the forum and have a question about changing the oil in my 2004 VN2000. I have ~16,000 miles on it and have used 10W40 with Kawasaki filters each time I changed oil. Now I'm thinking about using a synthetic instead, and would like to replace the filter with a 3 1/2 in filter instead of the manufacturer's recommended filter. Does anybody else consider this a good idea? And, is there anything special about converting to a synthetic that should be done?:confused:
confuscious, the most special thing conversion from a petroleum based oil to a synthetic product is the moola it will set you back. Minor downside of an extended 3.5" filter is if you have an engine gard (cobra-fatty) that goes directly in front of it, then it is a wee bit less accessible. its, do-able but a tight fit. other than that, if you got the skins, then pony up and roll on down the road. out, ponch
 

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Speaking of oil

Thanks Poncho,

After reading the poop on "All about Oil" me thinks for my bike, the synthetic is a good move. I like the idea of being proactive and would rather spend a little more on preventive maintenance than down time with the motor torn down. With out a shop to setup the work I'll be happy to spend bit more on the oil change. Besides, the dealer charges 12 bucks for a filter and I can get the PureOne for half that...helps off set the price for the synthetic. Thanks!!
 

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Because the Vulcan 2000 has a unique semi-dry sump lubrication system with separate oil chambers in the crank room, clutch side cover and transmission room, the engine oil level indicated on the dipstick is very sensitive to oil temperature, the motorcycle's position and engine RPM at time of shut down.

Under certain conditions, oil can accumulate in the crank and clutch areas and give a false low reading on the dipstick in the transmission room. This can result in false low readings and oil overlilling, which often leads to oil being pushed out of the crankcase vent and into the airbox.

Use the following procedure, which is also outlined in the Owners's Manual, for checking oil level:

Verify Engine Oil Presence
Before starting the engine, verify that the engine contains oil by removing the oil filler cap/dispstick in the lower right side of the engine. If the dipstick is dry, tip the motorcycle slightly to the right and look thru the filler holde until oil appears. If no oil appears even when the machine is tipped at an extreme angle, remove the oil drain plugs to empty any oil that may be in the transmission, crankcase and clutch cover. Reinstall the drain plugs and refill with the specified amount of oil. Continue with Engine Oil Level Inspection.

CAUTION: If the engine is run without oil, it will be severely damaged.

Engine Oil Level Inspection
After you have verified that the engine contains oil, start the engine and allow it to idle for several minutes to thoroughtly warm the oil in the transmission room to 125 degrees Fahrenheit according to the following chart:

Air Temp Idle Time
40 degrees 15 minutes
65 degrees 10 minutes
100 degrees 5 minutes

*NOTE: During this time the auxilliary cooling fan may be activated several times.
After allowing the engine to idle for the specified time, shut it off. DO NOT REV THE ENGINE AND SHUT IF OFF AT HIGHER THAN IDLE RPM. Doing so can leave a significant amount of oil in the crank room and clutch area, leading to a false low oil level reading.

Allow the oil to settle for several minutes. With the motorcycle level from from to back and side to side, remove the oil filler cap/dipstick and wipe the dipstick clean. Continue holding the motorcycle supright and reinstall the dipstick, threading the cap completely in. Remove the dipstick and check the engine oil level. The engine iol level should be between the high and low level lines on the dipstick.

If the oil level is too high, remove the excess oil through the filler opening using a syringe or other suitable device. If the oil is too low, add oil to reach the correct level. Use the same type of oil that is already in the engine.

Replace the cap, making sure the O-ring is in place and tighten.

Following this procedure should provide an accurate oil leel reading. If you feel your are not obtaining accurate readings using this method, please see your local Kawasaki dealer for further assistance.
 

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Two Cents

Speaking to the issue of stripping out the clutch drain plug...I did. BUT, if you take your Rigid Snake lite camera and look in that hole, there is a secondary surface in that hole that can be very very carefully tapped out and a slightly longer plug or metric bolt can be used with the same o-ring. I never pulled the cover off, but with the camera and a feeler probe to make sure that the longer bolt wasn't touching anything grindy, the fix works.

As for the oil level checking, I am with Ponch. I change out the oil every 5k, check to make sure that I am getting 5 liters ish (very similar to quart), and add 5 liters back new. I don't use Kawi filters, I like Hi-Flo, but the system works. ;)
 
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