Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So...

I tried to do my first oil change on my own today
I failed pretty bad..
I didnt have a 17mm socket so i wasnt able to open the drain plug..
Even after draining the oil i didnt have the tool to open the oil filter.
Anyway.. I changed the oil which i guess its better than nothing and i will be more ready next time.


tl:dr
Anyone knows what the crush washer size so i can order some?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
699 Posts
Yes, I'm sure the manual says to do so as well.
But its just a flat washer. How bad can it get while installed on the engine, and why would it go bad?
It will last many years.
I have had my bike for over 7 years and haven't replaced a washer yet! AND no leaks either. That's all the washer does is stops leaks.

If you want to replace every oil change go ahead.
I'm just saying don't stress about it.

There is even another discussion about this very thing on this forum here -
https://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/14-vulcan-2000/299270-oil-plug-washers.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
904 Posts
It’s an aluminum washer. I just clean it off and check the faces over for any impressions or marks that may cause a leak. I’ve never replaced one yet on either of my bikes. I check for leaks there after an oil change and for a couple of days after. Never had a problem. That’s not to say you shouldn’t change it however, it’s just my personal preference. If it was visually damaged or squashed, I’d change it right away. It don’t cost much.
Size is 12x22x2 mm
Here’s the part No. 11061-0417

Can buy it here:
https://www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/11061-0417?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImcSw7vLh4AIVAUCGCh37bwKdEAAYASAAEgKbKPD_BwE

Or search the part number at your favourite part retailer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
904 Posts
I think initially I tried to buy a washer at the dealer and believe it or not they never had any. Said to reuse it, if it wasn’t damaged. So I didn’t bother after. In the owners manual on my 800 it says “replace damaged gasket with a new one” and the KVS manual says “replace gasket with a new one”. If your that worried, buy the washer. After 7 years on my 800 and 2 on my 650, I’ve never had a leak.
I looked through the thread about this, posted above. If there’s anything I can tell you, don’t be trying to flatten out washers! Just go buy a new one. Don’t use Teflon tape on those plug threads! Teflon solids are detrimental to your engine. If any of those loose strands get into your oil pump, it will plug up an oil passage(s) and or clog up the screen. That will lead to oil starvation and then a whole lot of engine damage. If you got a leak, just go get a new washer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,037 Posts
You can get an oil filter wrench at any Auto part Store or if you don't want to do that then use a large Channellock Pliers. Hand tighten the new oil filter and done. This bike really is about the easiest oil change of all the vehicles I have ever owned. There shouldn't be any problems at all. And yes, I reuse that washer as well. If you have a bunch of those washers than more power to you but unless it is totally messed up there is no real reason to worry about it. Also do not over tighten the Oil drain plug. It could strip and then you are in a heap of trouble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
653 Posts
Old bush mechanics trick to getting oil filters off if you're not in your workshop or in your case don't have the tool.
Punch a screw driver into the oil filter can and now you've got a handle to turn it off.
Unless of course you plan on putting the old one back on?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,037 Posts
Old bush mechanics trick to getting oil filters off if you're not in your workshop or in your case don't have the tool.
Punch a screw driver into the oil filter can and now you've got a handle to turn it off.
Unless of course you plan on putting the old one back on?
LOL, I have done that before on some cars where I didn't have the proper wrench. A bit messy but it does work in a pinch. :grin2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
As a young mechanic, I was working under a Cummins diesel, changing oil. Primary oil filter was about 12" long and 6" diameter. Started with shop's band wrench attached to my 15" long, 1/2" dr. ratchet. Filter so tight, it starts to wrinkle. Get big screwdriver and punch it through filter and start to pull. Filter starts trearing. Now, oil everywhere, sharp tears in filter(what's left of it), and looking up through it, I see the inner part of the top of said filter. Got long punch and smaller hammer. Tapped top of filter, cutting knuckles on jagged edges, counter clockwise, careful not to scratch filter base. Just as I get it off, Foreman walks over to see what all the noise and cussing coming out from under a simple oil change is. Last part of memory: Foreman walking away, puffing pipe clenched in teeth, muttering, "Weenie"!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
299 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
As a young mechanic, I was working under a Cummins diesel, changing oil. Primary oil filter was about 12" long and 6" diameter. Started with shop's band wrench attached to my 15" long, 1/2" Dr. Ratchet. Filter so tight, it starts to wrinkle. Get big screwdriver and punch it through filter and start to pull. Filter starts treating. Now, oil everywhere, sharp tears in filter(what's left of it), and looking up through it, I see the inner part of the top of said filter. Got long punch and smaller hammer. Tapped top of filter, cutting knuckles on jagged tears, counter clockwise, careful not to scratch filter base. Just as I get it off, Foreman walks over to see what all the noise and cussing coming out from under a simple oil change is. Last part of memory: Foreman walking away, puffing pipe clenched in teeth, muttering, "Weenie"!
Thats..uhh

an interesting story you got there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Just a little humor-little mc filter won't need to be installed too tight. Removal a breeze, with a proper-size (small) filter wrench. If previously overtightened, it may be a little nasty, but not so bad as to discourage you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
904 Posts
Sticking a screwdriver through may help sometimes, but dependeds on how much room you have. Not to mention if it starts to tear, which it sometimes do and now it’s too slippery to grip with anything. I’d use that as a last resort. Get a $10 pair of oil filter pliers.
A trick a mechanic showed me long ago and I’ve used it many times, is to use your hands with non slip or rubber faced work gloves. The grip is amazing and it’s never failed me. If you don’t have a set of those gloves, clean off the oil filter and wrap a piece double sided tape on the filter and use your dry hands or clean gloves to turn it. This also works.
But I’ve long since bought a set of channel loc oil filter pliers and never had any problems since. You can get a cheaper brand for about $10. It seems the factory oil filter was put on by a gorilla, but after that you don’t have to overtighten it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Good advice. As additional constructive advice:
The oil filter is actually best to grip at the top or bottom of the filter (where it screws onto the engine filter base or where the metal curves to form the bottom) - not the middle. (My story was an extreme example of why! It'll never happen to you, and I was just a rookie, back then.)
I know it may be hard to get there with Channel Locking pliers, which is why a band type filter wrench or VulcanHead's pliers may best. The band type set closer to the top of the filter works well. Harley and others make their filters with the "finger" dents near the bottom and you can get a cup-like wrench to fit them very positively, for a nice, strong grip.

Clean filter base with clean rag after filter is removed, and inspect for smooth mounting surface.
Check the top of the new filter, to make sure the seal is in place (a big o-ring), apply small amount of oil to seal and spin until seal on filter makes contact with filter base on engine, then 1/2 to 3/4 turns by hand.

Kawasaki and I agree, recommends a new crush washer (12mm aluminum) and torque plug to their spec's. Refill crankcase with appropriate motorcyle oil, correct viscosity and specified amount.

Run for a minute and check for leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
904 Posts
Good advice. As additional constructive advice:
The oil filter is actually best to grip at the top or bottom of the filter (where it screws onto the engine filter base or where the metal curves to form the bottom) - not the middle. (My story was an extreme example of why! It'll never happen to you, and I was just a rookie, back then.)
I know it may be hard to get there with Channel Locking pliers, which is why a band type filter wrench or VulcanHead's pliers may best. The band type set closer to the top of the filter works well. Harley and others make their filters with the "finger" dents near the bottom and you can get a cup-like wrench to fit them very positively, for a nice, strong grip.

Clean filter base with clean rag after filter is removed, and inspect for smooth mounting surface.
Check the top of the new filter, to make sure the seal is in place (a big o-ring), apply small amount of oil to seal and spin until seal on filter makes contact with filter base on engine, then 1/2 to 3/4 turns by hand.

Kawasaki and I agree, recommends a new crush washer (12mm aluminum) and torque plug to their spec's. Refill crankcase with appropriate motorcyle oil, correct viscosity and specified amount.

Run for a minute and check for leaks.
Yup and you can also get those pliers in an adjustable swivel jaw type to more accommodate tighter spaces, if need be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Hey guys here is quick easy solution: K&Nfilters.com. For the Vulcan S 650 it takes a KN - 303. It has a hex nut on the end for easy off. $10.67 and UPS will deliver to your door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
904 Posts
K&N had a recall on some of those filters because the spot weld that holds that stamped nut on didn’t have the correct weld penetration, thus bursting in that area and dumping your oil. Which on a motorcycle can be drastic! Check that recall and make sure your good to go.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top