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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, all you Vulcan experts out there, In the owners manual, it stats the from 32 Deg F to 104 Deg F you can use 10 or 20W50. 10W40 also falls into this cat. except it is effective below 32 Deg F. I have a V2k with 17K and am changing the oil for the first time since I picked it up. Other than the exteneded run time, what would be the advantages in using a synthetic oil? Will the Synthetic oil or using the 20W50 quiet the gear noise? any advice here would be appreciated. I am fully aware of the reason they put this informaion in the owners manual and based on that I could run either 10W40, 10W50 or 20W 50. And if I do go to a synthetic, does anyone have a good reccomedation? thanks
 

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Don't know if this helps, but here is how I see the high side. My Vision only has an oil cooler. Victory only wants 10W40 used. Your VN2000 has a water radiator, so I can't see needing the __W50.

Herb
 

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Thanks g1, I am leaning towards the 10W40, so it will most likley boil down to synthetic versus SEA. I will being doing some more research on the two. thanks for the reply. Do you own the four bikes listed or are they by-gones except for the Vic?
 

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Do a search on this forum and any other bike forums and you will get all the oil info you can stomach...;)

After reading everything, I went with Shell Rotella 15W-40 that they sell at a lot of places. Cheap heavy duty dino oil. JASO-MA rated which the manual recommends.
I also went with a Wally-World Super Tech filter made by champion after reading a lot about filters too. I don't remember the part number, but; if you need it, I'll get it tonight.

Later...
 

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Do you own the four bikes listed or are they by-gones except for the Vic?
We actually do own four if you count a 250cc Honda Reflex scooter. I had really hoped the Vision would be a morph of the VN2000 & the Goldwing. Nope! We bought it before they were released. Man, the Japanese transmissions are smoother with better ratios.

I hope you run Jaso-Ma, but that is your call.

Herb
 

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I just switched to Amsoil syn 10-40 motorcycle oil this season on my '08 900 LT WITH an Amsoil filter and it quieted mine down quite a bit. 3100 miles on the bike at the start of the season. IMHO, no problems and I like the smoothness of the running engine now. Maybe its the placibo effect, I dunno. OH yeah,,,,the price is right too as I have a rep working at my place of employment.
 

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The benefit of synthetic: it doesn't shear near as bad in the tranny. Unfortunately, bikes use the same oil for the gears too. Synthetic is much better in this regard, as well as all around

20-50 is usually recommended for air cooled bikes.......but I like it in any machine where I live...(Central Texas)...it gets hot, water cooled or not. I havent been able to find 20-50 Mobil 1 lately, so I use 10-40 mobil 1High Mileage. If it has friction reducers, I haven't noticed any.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all for the advice, I went with kaw synth 10w40 and an OEM filter. After I changed the oil (yes I removed all three plugs) and refilled it with 4.9 quarts as the owners manual reccomended. I ran the bike at an idle until warmed up, let it stand for say about 20 minutes. When I checked the oil (level bike and threaded the stick all the way) the oil showed on the lower end of the operating range. has anyone else noticed this? I am reluctant to add more oil beyind the reccomended amount becasue it can really make a mess of the intake breather if overfilled. I am thinking maybe I need to drive it around a while to get the right amonut of oil in all the chambers. please chime in if you any advice on this. thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks Ophidia, I read that in the owners manual but thought it was when the engine was dry, not when you were changing the oil with the filter. None the less I will add another .5 qts and I should be fine.
 

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I know, it seemed odd to me as well, but it seems to be OK. I know what it's like to have it blow out oil-- after I got mine last July (used from the dealer) it started doing that bad on the was home (blue smoke out of the exhaust, smoke from the side of the bike) so I turned around and went back to make them fix it. Turns out that the junior tech that did the oil change didn't know how to check or change the oil (not a Kawi dealer) so I stood over the master tech while he did it. He got it right, but he's been in the biz for 25 years.
 

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Thanks all for the advice, I went with kaw synth 10w40 and an OEM filter. After I changed the oil (yes I removed all three plugs) and refilled it with 4.9 quarts as the owners manual reccomended. I ran the bike at an idle until warmed up, let it stand for say about 20 minutes. When I checked the oil (level bike and threaded the stick all the way) the oil showed on the lower end of the operating range. has anyone else noticed this? I am reluctant to add more oil beyind the reccomended amount becasue it can really make a mess of the intake breather if overfilled. I am thinking maybe I need to drive it around a while to get the right amonut of oil in all the chambers. please chime in if you any advice on this. thanks.

if you get it in the middle of the hash marks, thats good...........all the way to the full mark can be too full.

I used a bigger NAPA filter and 5 full qts...........put me right there
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys for all the input, I have added some oil and I am good to go. Sounds like a simple little problem but the book is a bit missleading about how much to add when changing just the filter compared to the oil and filter compared to an empty crankcase. Thanks again.
 
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