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Had my first oil change done today, the dealer said it was ok to use synthetic oil. They used Motul 300V synthetic. Is this a good oil? Does anyone have experience with this oil in the Kawi 1700 engine. I put about 80 miles on it after the oil change and the bike seems a little smoother through the shifts. I guess I'll no more after a couple hundred miles.
 

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I'm sure it's a good oil as long as it meets the requirements in the Kawasaki manual. There is a report on the Amsoil web page you can read about a test done in a independent lab on various motorcycles oils and I believe Motul is in it. It's interesting if you like to read that kind of stuff. Synthetic is the way to go, I will be using Amsoil on my next oil change. Good luck
 

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I read up on all the Synthetic oils, Amsoil was tops all around, I run 20W-50 in my 2010 VV........It's better than the 10W-40, it's really hot in Texas and the 20W-50 smooths it out............
 

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I run Amsoil in my Voyager and Mobil1 in my wifes 900. They both seem to do their job. Mobil1 is much easier to get where I live.
 

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Motul is a very good oil but I've always ran Mobil1 15-50 in all my bikes with no issues. I know, I know, it's auto oil not motorcycle oil but if the clutch didn't slip in the ZX14 or CBR1000 I am very confident that the 65hp of the VV isn't going to be an issue :D
 

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Everybody talks about the oil they use and how great it is; synthetic, dino, 20Wthis, 5Wthat, various brands and formulations, smoother shifting, quiter running, cooler engine. I want to hear from someone who has used a motorcycle oil that was actually bad. I'm talking about current motorcycle rated oils that are JASO certified, and they meet the manufacturer's specifications, but actually hurt their engine or transmission. I'm not talking about the relative differences between how long you can go between oil changes, nor am I concerned with 'these' tests or 'those' tests for certain oils. Because, I contend that if you use an oil that is rated for your motorcycle and also meets your manufacturer's recommendations, then all this talk - about which oil is great and what oil is better than all those others - is just bullshit. Unless you can prove to me that there are oils that are bad for your motorcycle and will cause it harm, then I claim that all this oil talk is no more than chest-thumping, "my dog is bigger than your dog" bullcrap. By 'harm' I mean a significant loss of power, performance or life-expectancy, or even actual physical damage to components under normal use. I believe that if you use a proper oil, follow a proper maintenance schedule and don't abuse the machine then it will perform as expected for many years and many many miles. I would expect at least 100,000 miles from any bike under these circumstances. Cheap dino oils or outrageously priced synthetic oils will both work, and neither will harm your engine. The only differences are how much you pay and how often it gets changed. That's all.

Your opinion may vary.
 

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Pennzoil - JUNK! I once had a Honda CRX (It's a car not a bike). I bought it with a little over 100,000 miles on it. Bought it from a friend and he maintained it regularly. I went to change the oil and only got about 3.5 quarts out of it. The dipstick said it was full. It holds 4.5 quarts. I pulled the oil pan and found the remaining oil. It was caked on like tar. Pulled a rod cap to look at the crank. Toast! Had to take it in for a total rebuild. I talked to my pal that I bought it from and he said he used Pennzoil since it was new.
 

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I bought the classic this year as a new leftover. I've only put 3,400 miles on it so far. I've changed the oil three times with Valvoline 10w-40 motorcycle oil from Autozone. I just changed it and went the longest at 2000 miles. I was surprised at how dark it was. I've heard it's junk oil even though it meets all the correct standards. I'll be moving over to synthetic of some kind at about 6-7000 miles. Hopefully the motor will be "broke in" by then.
 

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Pennzoil - JUNK! I once had a Honda CRX (It's a car not a bike). I bought it with a little over 100,000 miles on it. Bought it from a friend and he maintained it regularly. I went to change the oil and only got about 3.5 quarts out of it. The dipstick said it was full. It holds 4.5 quarts. I pulled the oil pan and found the remaining oil. It was caked on like tar. Pulled a rod cap to look at the crank. Toast! Had to take it in for a total rebuild. I talked to my pal that I bought it from and he said he used Pennzoil since it was new.
There could be several reasons for that happening and have nothing to do with the brand name. IMO :)
 

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Vulcan 1700 is right. Pennzoil and Quaker state cause oil gelling. Same company owns both. I believe the PZ7 in it causes it. I had a car that was gunked up. and the previous owner use it.
 

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Any brand named oil that meets the owners manual specs will give you 100,000 miles of happy miles... change it every 3000 miles and you'll get 200,000 happy miles. I've never heard or read (documented) of a motorcycle or car engine failure because of any one particular brand of oil.
 
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