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Discussion Starter #1
I know there are a thousand threads on this, after reading through 976 of them I made an e ecutive decision and bought a Mobil 1 m1-100 filter and Castrol edge synthetic 5w-40 oil along with royal purple 75w30 synthetic for the diff. Does anyone have any thoughts on any of this?

I have no idea what was put in the bike up until now, but at the least I'd like to start treating her nice from here on in...

Thx
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bump.. anyone? gonna do my oil changes this week and would like to be sure these oils will do the trick.
Thanks! :)
 

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BOTM Winner, December 2016
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eg75,

That is automotive oil...
I'd stay away from it due to your wet clutch and use motorcycle specific oil...
Friction modifiers will make your clutch slip...

You said you read 976 threads though ???
Really ???

Just the opposite with oil filters...
Motorcycle specific filters Ssuuucckk !!!

I use the Purolator PL14610 or PL14612...
The Bosch equivalents are excellent also.

I know nothing of availability in Canada but I would use Valvoline 4T Motorcycle 10 40 or Mobil One 4T 10 40...
If you want a 5 40 then get Shell Rotella T6...
Any good motorcycle oil should be rated as JASO MA or MA2 ...

I have done a TON of research, trust me, I never saw Castrol Edge recommended for a motorcycle.

As always,
YMMV

Luckymann77
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks man, appreciate the info, I'll return this stuff and look for some of those reccomendations.
How about for gear oil? Royal Purple 75w90 for the diff? any thoughts?
 

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BOTM Winner, December 2016
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I know nothing of the Royal Purple stuff except it's expensive...
I'm sure it's excellent though...

The Mobil 1 or Valvoline full synthetic is half the cost and probably as good or better...
I got a deal on the Valvoline at Advance Auto so that's what is in mine now.
About 9 bucks on the deal...

I will give you a hint in changing the rear diff...
Leave the bike on the side stand for the whole procedure...

Keeps the fluid off the cast wheels...any oil contact on those wheels needs to be washed off immediately !!!
Also when refilling, it keeps the oil level just a tad low which allows for any expansion and may lower the pressure on the seals...

Have you been on the Vulcan Gadget webpage ???

Luckymann77
 

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Discussion Starter #6
nope I have not... I havent owned a bike in over 5 years and just bought a 2006 nomad last week. It's at the shop getting some stuff done but plan on doing the fluids/brakes myself this week when I bring her home.
Wonder how much that advance would charge to ship to canada, man it's hard to find good oils here, canadiantire has a hidden mini shelf with 1 or 2, I guess I can go to a bike shop but theyll charge a fortune.
Thanks for the hint on the diff, havent dont it before that's super helpful!
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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BOTM Winner, December 2016
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Several members here swear by it...
It's JASO MA rated...
No friction modifiers either so it's OK for your wet clutch...

I'd use it...
Your scooter won't know it's diesel oil...it can't read !!!

Actually was going to try some then I found the deal on the Valvoline 4T 10w 40 ...

Luckymann77
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Awesome I will! Thanks bud!
 

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1. Check/fill oil level with bike perpendicular to ground, not on stand.
2. Final drive is vented, so no need to keep oil level low.
3. GL-5 gear oil will work fine.
4. Replace plug, roll bike back and forth a little, then recheck level.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I understand I should fill it right till the bottom of the fill hole thread with the bike upright. Is that accurate?
 

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BOTM Winner, December 2016
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Quote Gadget Fix It page
Regarding differential fill...


" Sometimes with machines, owners discover what the factory recommends may not always be the best way to do things and after many years and probably millions of miles of combined experience Vulcan owners have discovered leaving the bike on the sidestand when filling the gearcase seems to result in fewer leaks down the road (no pun intended). So, skip all the leveling (unless you'll be checking engine oil level) and just fill the gearcase with the bike on the stand. The difference in the amount of lube added is very small, there's no danger of damaging the internal parts and for reasons unknown there seems to be less chance of a leak developing in the future.

Fill the case through the large opening until the case starts to overflow or the oil level reaches the threads on the opening. DO NOT OVERFILL. Let the assembly sit a moment until you're sure it's full but no extra lubricant will drip out the fill hole then put in the plug. Clean it all up and you're finished."

In other words, getting your bike absolutely level for the differential fill is NOT critical and this method is TONS easier !!!

Luckymann77
 

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On the stand provides no standard. Stand could be bent, sitting in a hole, the bike could be on a slant, etc.
Vertical is vertical and a standard.
A personal opinion...no way do I believe that filling to a standard causes leaks, millions of miles or not. Sounds like conjecture to me.

Follow factory recommendations or the internet. It is your choice.
 

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As an add, I am not cranking on you, but the Gadget advice.
What makes me laugh is the DO NOT OVERFILL part. Pretty hard to do with a big open hole in the side of the case!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the input guys, I have a jack and intend on having the bike on it anyways for other work so I might just do it vertically.
I returned the castrol oil and mobil1 filter today, figure I got all winter, why not wait for the rotella to go on sale at Canadian Tire... wont be riding for the next 5-6 months anyways....

I also returned the compression tester, since the shop is now doing a leakdown test, dont see much point in wasting 30$ on a compression tester.... if I notice problems with the engine, I'll buy it again.

Really appreciate all the informative users on this site so far... much obliged!
 

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I am not suggesting you use automotive oil in your bikes, but I will say that I believe it to be safe for your bikes. I have 63,000 miles on my Vulcan and 40,000 miles on my Concours and they've never had motorcycle specific oil in them. I've got original clutches on both and they perform perfectly. I believe the change interval is a bigger factor then the actual oil you use as long as you use a name brand oil that is.
 

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I am not suggesting you use automotive oil in your bikes, but I will say that I believe it to be safe for your bikes. I have 63,000 miles on my Vulcan and 40,000 miles on my Concours and they've never had motorcycle specific oil in them. I've got original clutches on both and they perform perfectly. I believe the change interval is a bigger factor then the actual oil you use as long as you use a name brand oil that is.
So what oil do YOU normally use?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
After everything I've read, I've decided to go with the Rotella 5w40 synthetic diesel engine oil. Seems a LOT of people put this in th bikes an can't say enough good things about it, plus it's half the price of some others... As for the filter, I think I'll go with th mobil1 m1-100.

Rick, what Paul said, what do you use?
 

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For my Vulcan I've run 10w40 Penzoil Dino oil since new. I found that to give me the smoothing shifting. For my Connie, I've tried several and think I like Mobil 1 0w40 synthetic the best.
 
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