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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I changed my oil and switched to AMSOIL from Mobil 1 synth on my previous change. I have an 09 that was purchased a little over a year ago with 0 miles.

This is my 5th oil change. I went about 2500 miles since the last change and I'm still getting some good size flakes.

I still had the stock 2009 DOT4 fluid in the brakes and clutch. That was changed also. It was worse than I thought it would be. These fluids should be changed yearly!! This is technically my first year of ownership but the fluid has probably been in those lines for close to 4 years.

Pics tomorrow.
 

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Flakes?

I changed my oil and switched to AMSOIL from Mobil 1 synth on my previous change. I have an 09 that was purchased a little over a year ago with 0 miles.

This is my 5th oil change. I went about 2500 miles since the last change and I'm still getting some good size flakes.

I still had the stock 2009 DOT4 fluid in the brakes and clutch. That was changed also. It was worse than I thought it would be. These fluids should be changed yearly!! This is technically my first year of ownership but the fluid has probably been in those lines for close to 4 years.

Pics tomorrow.
What are you getting flakes from?
 

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What are you getting flakes from?
I think he's referring to break in perhaps?

If that's the case, you may consider switching to a conventional oil! Whether you are on the granny it, ride it like you stole it, or ride it like you'd normally ride it camp of break-in procedures, it's almost universal (from what I've heard) that synthetic oil slows down the break down procedure. Most things I've read recommend not switching to synthetic until about 3,000 or so miles.

Just food for thought.
 

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This is my 5th oil change. Switched to synthetic somewhere around 4500 miles. I change the oil by raising the bike level on the kickstand and sliding an oil pan underneath. I then transfer the drained oil to another container that is eventually recycled. It was during this transfer out in the sun when the pan was mostly empty that I caught the flakes. If you simply look at the used oil in the garage it looks like...used oil. I've noticed this on other bikes as well that were past their break in period. I'll post a picture tomorrow. Easier from a computer!
 

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This is my 5th oil change. Switched to synthetic somewhere around 4500 miles. I change the oil by raising the bike level on the kickstand and sliding an oil pan underneath. I then transfer the drained oil to another container that is eventually recycled. It was during this transfer out in the sun when the pan was mostly empty that I caught the flakes. If you simply look at the used oil in the garage it looks like...used oil. I've noticed this on other bikes as well that were past their break in period. I'll post a picture tomorrow. Easier from a computer!
Oh ok.

Interesting. Wifes bike is running through the break in right now, I wonder how long I'll be catching flakes? I'll be sure to sift the oil with a magnet too, I'm a little curious now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Updated Pics

The oil I changed was Mobil 1 10w40 synthetic with Napa Gold 1358. It was the first time synthetic oil was used in the bike. Bike now has 7,500 miles on it. I switched to this;



Most people drain straight into a final container and the only time they see the oil is when it's coming out of the bike. Because of the pain of trying to use a big oil container and a jack I use the method described earlier. Inspecting the mostly drained oil pan in the sun you can see this. The big piece is part of the pan and not a chunk of something!:eek:



I also changed the brake and clutch fluids. I would advise changing this fairly quick especially if the bike was used or a leftover rotting at the dealer.

Equipment used. I only needed 1-1/2 containers of fluid and that was probably excessive to do the front/rear brakes and clutch. The rear brake has two bleeder valves. The clutch valve is under the plastic "Kawasaki" cover on the left side close to the oil filler.



Front brake cylinder before change. What looks like debris at the bottom is actually pitting. However the clutch side did have debris forming at the bottom that I scraped with a clean screwdriver while flushing out.



Open the valve and wonder why I waited so long! Simply bleed until clear with no air. Make sure the reservoir levels don't drop too low!

 

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I changed my oil and switched to AMSOIL from Mobil 1 synth on my previous change.
I haven't seen any particles, let alone flakes, in the oil from my bike.

I did get some the first time I changed oil on my 3rd hand crotch rocket but the stuff that came out of there looked like tar. No telling how long it had been in there and how the previous owners had been hammering it.
 

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If you still have the old filter, I would recommend you cut it open and inspect it for metal. I have never seen that much metal flakes in the oil before on a good running engine. Are those flakes steel or brass?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you still have the old filter, I would recommend you cut it open and inspect it for metal. I have never seen that much metal flakes in the oil before on a good running engine. Are those flakes steel or brass?
The oil is in a container now and the sanitation engineer took the filter this morning. I can't tell you for sure what it is but it's got my attention. Some of it is bubbles. Perhaps it's clutch debris from the famous 1700 tranny. Without an oil analysis I'm not sure. The engine seems to run well.
 

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I changed my oil and switched to AMSOIL from Mobil 1 synth on my previous change. I have an 09 that was purchased a little over a year ago with 0 miles.

This is my 5th oil change. I went about 2500 miles since the last change and I'm still getting some good size flakes.

I still had the stock 2009 DOT4 fluid in the brakes and clutch. That was changed also. It was worse than I thought it would be. These fluids should be changed yearly!! This is technically my first year of ownership but the fluid has probably been in those lines for close to 4 years.

Pics tomorrow.
Changed my fluids (including coolant) as well this weekend and found the brake and clutch to be just as dirty. If you plan on flushing them more often then IMO a hand held MityVac is worth every penny. Unfortunately though there is no tool to make changing the fork oil on a 1700 simple or easy. I've decided to tackle that one next season.
 
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