OEM Light Bar Wiring Question on 900 Classic

The reason that the instructions are written to install the light bar that way, is that in most states (that I am aware of) it is actually not permitted to have the driving light on with the high beam. (which just seems like a stupid, stupid law to me) SO, technically, If you had it hooked up to be always on with both High and low beams, you *shouldn't* pass inspection (if your state has inceptions that is)

I have mine setup to be able to work both ways.
1. per instructions to only come on with the low beam for when I take it in for inspection.
2. after I get i home from inspection, I open the headlight bucket and move one wire from the low beam wire to a wire tapped into the turn signal running light.

Since the wire I'm moving is only used to activate a relay, I don't have to worry about the draw on the headlight or the turn signal circuits. The light bar gets it actual power from the accessory line.

I imagine that the light bar for the Classic is set up to run the same way?

As far as total power draw with High beams, I haven't had any issues. I do about 50% of my riding at night for my commute to work down a very dark highway with little traffic during the hours I travel, so my high beam is on a lot.

If you are concerned about the amp draw. I was and this is how I wired mine up. If you take watts divided by volts = amps. So two 25w lamps in your light bar 50w/12v=4.16 amps. Then 65w high-beam/12v= 5.41 amps So in theory with both on you should be drawing 9.57 amps on a 10 amp fuse is to close for me. That is why I used a relay. Which I picked up at my local auto parts store. Headlight stays on it own fuse and light bar works on the accessory fuse.

Now what does the above mean in simple terms.

Take the ground wire from light bar and plug it into the ground in the headlight bucket. Also terminal 85 will go to ground on the relay.

Take the power wire on the light bar and hook it up to 87 on the relay. I am assuming the light bar already has a switch on it and is already wired up.

terminal 30/51 will go straight to the positive already in headlight bucket. accessory fuse.

then 86 will connect to what ever wire you choose. depending on how you want the lights on. low beam, high beam, running light, up to you.

So wiring up the light bar this way will put it on its own fuse. It will also only come on with the key as well. Because the accessory wires have power all the time. Also make sure you get the insulated connectors. We don't want any shorts.

Hope I did not confuse you any. I did all of mine in the headlight bucket. In this video he puts the relay under the seat. You also have a set of accessory wire there to. Same fuse as the ones in the headlight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvz1E9PG78M

If it's truly an OEM light bar he is adding there is no relay. Much easier to wire in without it. Instructions that came with mine were very simple to follow. Hardest part was removing the oem blinkers and mounting the new light bar. Wiring was a breeze, I also had the schematics handy to verify. I suggest getting a service manual if he don't have one already. My digital one ($10) from ebay worked just fine, but also bought a paper one ($60).

Yes I know he wants them to run all the time. So if that is the case he will need a relay. Just saying.

While I would also like to have them on all the time it really isn't necessary. The high beam is plenty bright. The driving lights are really only needed on low beam because (well) its the low beam. And they do help shine into the ditches as well. I suggest trying it without the relay in the stock configuration. It will save you some time. Go from there.