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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing wiring, several fuse bars w/ 1 or 2 relays for various 12V loads. The owners manual states there is spare fused outputs (acc. socket and spare)behind the headlight, meter; and under seat. With ignition ON, or start up, no power to any of these leads except 1 lead (brwn)on the large neoprene plug along the battery, next to the ACC fuse block, and got switched 12V. Acc. fuse has power fed thru unswitched (constant HOT).Is there a switching difference between the spare and ACC socket ? Kaw dealer no answer. I ordered Shop manual, but will take time to come. I'd like to use these wires and sockets to reduce wiring and fusing.
Any help, please reply,
Thanks, HR...
 

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I think you may need the relay kit (Part 99994-0510) to get the wires behind the headlight powered up. I do not have the shop manual yet either but based on all the other add ons (Light Bar, Gear Pos Indicator, 12V outlet) all need that relay kit to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Well, I figure any relay will still need a 12V supply for the relays coil and I should be able to measure it. The Kawasaki Acc. relay has no specs or pin layout. I'm wiring in possibly 2 fuse boxes, and additional relay. I just need 12 VC supply in multiple locations. Thanks for reply
HR..
 

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according to my dealer, none of the auxiliry connections will work, unless you have installed the relais.
Rather strange policy from Kawasaki, building a motorcycle with extra's, but the extra's won't work unless you pay for an accessorie :-|

nevertheless, mine will be installed tomorrow, finally i will have some voltage on my Garmin! ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I found continuity between all those aux wires, and would work for low current devices. Well, I figured out what I'm doing. I'll have Eastern Beaver make up a 3 fuse/relay setup w/one fuse unswitched for a battery tendor. The 2 remaining fuses will operate a J+M CB radio, a Pro-oiler, or spare. Then I'll take off the fused relay load again and run behind the headlight to another 2 or 3 fuse bar for the Powerlet jack and Heated grips w/ anther spare. I found switched power for the coil from a MT connector near the battery. Let U know how it goes.

I'd be curious to know where that relay is placed and connected to! I'll be using a 40 A relay to multiple fuse bars. I just wanted to know a good take off for the switched power.
HR...
 

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A relay or Circuit Breaker is to take the load off of the circuit that you are using to power/switch it.

A Relay or Circuit breaker, wired direct to the battery is the best solution for high draw anything using corresponding wire gauge for the power draw.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
[Qfind room to install these devices along w/ a signal c ancelerUOTE=westgl;2080177]A relay or Circuit Breaker is to take the load off of the circuit that you are using to power/switch it.

A Relay or Circuit breaker, wired direct to the battery is the best for high draw anything using corresponding wire gauge for the power draw.[/QUOTE]

Bought shop manual, Figured out all aux. wiring, relay plug, and similar taps Almost done w/ most wiring. Ordered a 3 fuse/relay all switched harness, looms, and connectors from Cycle Terminal, and am trying to install a signal canceler, brake light pulsar, powerlet jack, CB radio and antenna, w/ music, and heated grips. Very tight fit, but working thru it. will let all know how it goes when done.

HR...
 

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[Qfind room to install these devices along w/ a signal c ancelerUOTE=westgl;2080177]

Bought shop manual, Figured out all aux. wiring, relay plug, and similar taps Almost done w/ most wiring. Ordered a 3 fuse/relay all switched harness, looms, and connectors from Cycle Terminal, and am trying to install a signal canceler, brake light pulsar, powerlet jack, CB radio and antenna, w/ music, and heated grips. Very tight fit, but working thru it. will let all know how it goes when done.

HR...
Would you mind to share the photo of the relay location and probably the steps to reach it as shown in the service manual.
I am thinking to get the relay and installed it myself but couldn't locate it (in fact my new Vulcan S still under registration). The dealer told me relay is not required as they managed to install aftermarket gear position indicator without installing any relay.
 

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The reason for a relay for any high load anything, through a relay/circuit Breaker,

If I say relay it is either a Fuse or circuit breaker.

Circuit breakers are great in place of fuses, because if switched through the Ignition, or a power resettable device,

Then just turn off power, then turn it back on, and that is essentially like replacing the fuse without needing a new fuse every time, as a circuit Breaker is a reusable fuse that can be used over and over again.

When Not using a relay it is like you put a big Load on the switch/device and the wiring.

Signal wires are usually small gauge wires, where Load wires are much larger.

When you add a relay you are using the switch for signal only, and separating the Power source from the switch/device as the power is bypassing the wiring and switch and comes direct from the battery remotely through higher capacity wiring.

This is much better for all your electrical components, switches and wiring much less load going through them.

Kawasaki did the right thing by adding all add ons to go through relays, that will make the electrical on your bike Last a Long time.

Another Great thing to do for a exposed bike such as the Vulcan S, is fill most/all Connectors with Dielectric Grease, open the connector fill with Dielectric grease, then connect back the connector together, this will keep all Road spray, and weather or water, that causes corrosion, from Damaging the contacts inside the connectors, connection points, and they will last MUCH MUCH Longer than not treated.

This is especially great for any connections that are in weather that can corrode connection contacts.

I have a few Goldwings currently, and that trick has made my (83' GL1100, 32 year Old Bike), (84' GL1200, 33 Year Old Bike) , & (86' GL1200, 34 Year Old Bike) Goldwing wiring/connectors, Ignition switch, everything that has a connector on it, and make it last a long time with no corrosion.

I dont know what the draw is for the the Vulcan S, Gear Indicator, I wouldn't think much but hard to tell, without power draw numbers, probably better to go through the Relay than Not.

Only thing is Mechanical Relays have a certain number of cycles for their life, and Cheap Chinese relays have a shorter cycle Life.

A friend of mine put a pair of freeway blaster Horns 130dbl, each ( those have a big draw especially when you have two of the Horns both a high and low tone) on his bike, it was suppose to be loud, he did not use a relay, or direct to battery wire it, and went through stock wiring.

The Horns were Not Loud, well not as loud as they should be, and he was blowing fuses, and may have been over heating his wiring, it would eventually cause problems, if it had not been blowing fuses, as a warning.

Once it was wired right, it was LOUD!!!! a Lot Louder!!
 

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Will this panasonic 12v/20a relay CA1A-12V-N-5 a substitute to the stock relay kit 99994-0510, or the stock relay Omron 27002-1086?
Omron relay 27002-1062 looks similar to 27002-1086 and the power rating is 20A. The similarity (based on photo) among 2 Omron and 1 Panasonic relay is the color of the pin, at which 2 pin on the left are red copper color and the other 2 on the right are tinned color. Price wise the pana is half of Omron.
 

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I just installed my relay today. I haven't added my other accessories, yet. The Relay goes under the black/aluminum panel on the left side of the bike (same side as the battery access cover). I will add picturess as soon as I get them hosted.

It is silly that the bike is fully wired for the relay, it just isn't there unless you add it. Easy accessory money for dealers, I guess.
 

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Relay install

Here are pics from today's relay install.

First: Bike outside, parts boxes next to it (The little green box is the relay pack - the big brown box is my light bar I have yet to install):


Second: It's the first time I've done any work on this bike (only 167 miles at this point), so I got a little over-zealous and removed the seat (not necessary). However, from this angle, you can see the black and aluminum panel above the kickstand. There are four hex bolts that need to be removed to get the aluminum part off, and then below that are two 10mm bolts will need to be removed to get the plastic bit off.:


Third: Behind that plastic bit you'll find wires that terminate at a plug covered by a rubber boot. This is all secured by a bent strap held on by a 10mm bolt. You must remove this strap and bolt to install the Relay bracket in it's place. In this picture I have already removed the strap and installed the bracket to hold the relay (the black metal piece directly below the chain attached to the frame). I have also plugged the relay into the wires and at this point it is dangling just below the frame:


Final shot: Simply attach the relay to the new bracket, and then use the new 10mm bolt that came with the kit to reattach the strap that holds the wiring secure (in this pic that strap is down and left of the relay):


Hope this helps! I'll be adding the lights soon (hopefully tomorrow) and I'll post pics of that process.
 

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guys, would this be the same relay that will take care of the LED turn signals?


i replaced my turn signals with led and its fast blinking now.
 

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No - a fast blink won't be solved by a relay. You need a resistor - there are plenty on Amazon and eBay (search for LED turn signal resistor), or if you don't kind spending the extra money most AutoZones also carry the resistor.

One lead of the resistor goes to your positive wire on the signal light, and the other to ground. I haven't done this yet, so I don't know if you'll need just two or all four.
 

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guys, would this be the same relay that will take care of the LED turn signals?
i replaced my turn signals with led and its fast blinking now.
You need another type of relay, you can find plenty of it by google "flasher relay". and you only need one of this to have a normal flash rate on LED turn signal. Resistor will work as well but you need 4 pieces.
I replaced the turn signal relay which located under the fuel tank, what you need to do is to remove the 4 hex screw on the plastic cover and 2 big screw of the tank near the battery, lift the tank up a bit and move to the right (don't have to remove all, get someone to hold the tank). You will see the black stock relay (refer to the photo attached), remove it from the connector and plug in the flasher relay. The flasher relay I bought has no hooking point but it has the bracket and I able to tighten it to one of the screw point.
 

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You need another type of relay, you can find plenty of it by google "flasher relay". and you only need one of this to have a normal flash rate on LED turn signal. Resistor will work as well but you need 4 pieces.
I replaced the turn signal relay which located under the fuel tank, what you need to do is to remove the 4 hex screw on the plastic cover and 2 big screw of the tank near the battery, lift the tank up a bit and move to the right (don't have to remove all, get someone to hold the tank). You will see the black stock relay (refer to the photo attached), remove it from the connector and plug in the flasher relay. The flasher relay I bought has no hooking point but it has the bracket and I able to tighten it to one of the screw point.
Oh man! This sounds awesome! I'm going to look this up. Thanks for the info! I really don't like the resistors - kinda eliminates the whole reason I went with LEDs (lower load on the circuit) if I have to use a resistor, IMHO.
 
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