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The bike starts & runs fine but the headlight does not come on. The bulb was changed but not the problem. Any suggestions where to look. There must be a relay somewhere? Where is it? Any help appreciated.
 

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There is a 10 A fuse and a relay in the relay box. I'm guessing a fuse, make sure to try the high beam and or a meter to test.

A. Headlight Circuit Relay
Headlight relay.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is a 10 A fuse and a relay in the relay box. I'm guessing a fuse, make sure to try the high beam and or a meter to test.

A. Headlight Circuit Relay
View attachment 228624
The fuse was the 2nd thing I checked after the bulb. This problem goes a little deeper. I'm going to trace wiring & look for a relay. Any info on relay location would be helpful.
 

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I have double checked the fuse with a meter & I have power through the relay bot still no power to the headlight plug. All wiring looks good. Any suggestions?
 

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So you have no headlight at all, low or high?

Have you checked the connections at the dimmer (high/low) switch?

By the diagram I see in the manual you should have steady power on the blue/yellow wire into the switch, with output of red/yellow for low and red/black for high beam. You can also use these to double check your continuity between the switch and headlight socket..

On your relay, the blue/yellow wire is the wire that powers your dimmer switch, green/yellow is the power for the light from the fuse, and then the black and yellow/red pair being the circuit that actually triggers the relay.

Check for the following:
Power into the relay on the green/yellow wire.
Power out of the relay on the blue/yellow wire (once bike is started so headlight would come on)
Continuity along blue/yellow wire between relay connection and dimmer switch
Continuity between dimmer switch and headlamp socket on red/black and red/yellow wires respectively
Continuity to ground from headlamp black/yellow wire on the headlamp socket

Apparently, on the 1500 and 1600 series bikes, the relays and main fuse are all hidden towards the front around the coolant tank. Might poke around in that area to actually locate the relay itself.

This is a quote from another site, not my own works...

This is probably one of those things that shall forever remain a mystery, placement of the main (30 amp) fuse on the Vulcan 1500/1600 bikes.

You'd think Kawasaki would place it in the bikes fuse box and maybe even provide a spare fuse in the lid or somewhere near. Nope, you've probably noticed if you've ever removed the seat on your bike the spare fuse is in a holder attached to your battery hold down. Remember that location and have the tools necessary to get to the spare in the event your main fuse decides to blow some dark and stormy might in the middle of nowhere.

So where is the main fuse if it isn't under the seat and isn't in the fuse box? It's in its own special place under the bike's right side cover. Here's how to locate it.

1. Remove the bike's right side cover

2. Remove the coolant tank (no need to remove the hoses if you don't want to, just pull the tank away from the bike. On the other hand if the tank is full of grunge you might want to take the opportunity to remove and clean it up.

3. Now look for four box shaped electrical gizmos. Those are all relays that provide high amperage power to your headlight, starter and other items. Locate the starter relay, furthest to the left.

4. The master fuse is under the red cap on top of that relay. Depress the side latches to remove the cap. It's held in place not only by the latches but there are four electrical connections plugged into the top of the relay. If any of those posts is corroded it could make removal a little dicey. Just wiggle the cap up, don't pry it up by sticking metallic objects underneath (is explanation really necessary? <g>)

5. Replace the main fuse with your spare but 'only' after repairing whatever short caused the fuse to blow in the first place. If the electrical posts are corroded clean them up and apply di-electric grease available at any auto supply store in tube or pressurized can form. Di-electric grease provides corrosion protection but allows full power to flow through contacts.

You're done BUT if any of the contacts was corroded chances are mighty high you have the same issue with others. Why not spend a few extra minutes (assuming you're in a safe comfortable location) cleaning the contacts for the rest of the relays and all the connections you can find under the side cover. Don't forget the two plugged into the fuse box.

Button everything up and go ride.
 
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