Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am working on a 99/00 Vulcan 500 and am at a loss.
It has no spark and due to inconsistent manuals, much trial and error, and many hours of testing I am coming to inquire for ideas.

I have one manual (from Kawasaki) with ohm readings for the Igniter. These readings don't match any of the 5 Igniters I have to test. One original, two used, and two new from Kawasaki. The new ones test identically but are the furthest from the manual. I know there will be some variance in readings due to testing apparatus (blue point multimeter set to 00.0 K ohms) but all units are off significantly in at least three readings.

The one manual states a pick up coil of 100-150 ohms resistance needs to be used. The other manual (older I believe) states 480 ohms. I have tried both set ups to no avail. The 100-150 ohm pick up is generating 2.5-4 volts AC.

Coils ohm out to spec and can be manually triggered from the terminal and from the wire coming out of the igniter.

Plugs have been checked, bypassed and replaced.

Lock outs have been checked and bypassed, individually and as a group on green/black out of the igniter.

All wires into and out of the igniter have been ohmed to power, ground and for continuity and they check out. They have also been checked for proper ground/signal/power input/output with only the trigger wires to the coils failing due to no ground.

When plugging the igniter in after a minute of two of disconnect the starter relay in the junction box will buzz but at no point while connected.

The coils are seeing no ground at all from the igniter, so I can not verify pulse/no pulse. Considering that lock out has been bypassed to ground and open and the ground circuit shows only 0.3 ohms on the high end to battery negative I am lost. Please feel free top shoot ideas at me so I can check them or update this post with information I have forgotten.

Thanks, :confused: Eric
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
1. What was the initial problem... no start, runs poor, etc?
2. Ohms readings are virtually useless unless you have the IDENTICAL meter that Kawasaki used, and even then ???? Only useful for finding I/O catastrophic failures.
3. What do you mean by plugs have been bypassed?
4. Second to last and last sentence need clarification.
5. How many miles on the bike?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I agree ohm readings for igniter are sketchy but the inconsistencies across units arent ok. The plugs being bypassed mean coil wire minus boot straight to ground and still no spark. By lock out I mean the kill switches related to safety. Side stand, neutral etc. These switches go to ground or open to kill or enable the spark. These switches have been bypassed to ground and nothing so the ground the coils need to saturate doesnt come from that or isnt being transferred through igniter. The main ground to the igniter shows at most across meters/temperatures/time .3 ohms.....
Does it make sense now?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Initial problem was no start. I work at a shop and it is a customer's bike so have no history prior. Also no mileage as bike arrived in pieces.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
1. On ignitor plug, locate grey wire.
2. Key on, probe grey wire while still connected to ignitor.
3. Take voltage reading.

Post back with reading.

Many times inputs/outputs are active circuits, so impedance readings may vary from unit to unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Will post back tomorrow but I thought it was a twelve volt secondary input. That said my memory only goes back a few hours.....what should the reading be while connected? I believe it is reading at twelve.....but once again my memory is almost certainly flawed....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Original ignition switch w no discernable repairs. This test was run in "On". In "Park" (i.e. lights) power is cut as a general rule though I dont think that makes a difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
OK, you are going to have to check the ignition switch.
At the switch, there should be a 100 ohm 1/2w resistor that goes in series with the grey wire and then attaches to the brown wire at the switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
Yes. The grey should not connect directly to the brown but have a 100 ohm resistor between brown and grey. Be sure it is 1/2 watt.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top