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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. I just purchased a new to me 2007 Nomad 1600. I've had a 900 Classic LT and been on this board for years. I'm trying to do some trouble shooting on this new bike. It has approx 41,000 miles, new fuel injectors, new fuel pump, baron big air kit, TFI fuel controller. California model that appears to have the charcoal canister removed. Bike will start, idle (roughly), but when put in gear sputters under load and usually dies. Can't get it started after that. The TFI fuel controller is very very beat up. The 4 pods don't really have adjustable screws anymore, so I've ordered a PowerCommander III to replace it. (Wanted that anyway) Anybody have ideas of what I can check in the mean time? Should the reed valves be removed? Not sure if he has them plugged, as I'm not really sure where to following the piping.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Ryan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Removing the controller was my first thing I did. Ran even worse without the controller. I can only assume that is because with all the stock air stuff removed the stock ecu just can't compensate for the amount of air coming in. I may be way off, but thats all I can figure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will clean the throttle body when I get the PCIII controller. Without the old TFI controller the bike won't really start. It does, but then dies within just a few seconds of starting.
 

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It should start and run without the controller. If it will not, there is something wrong and adding a controller could just cover up the issue and add more confusion.

Post a picture of the plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Once I get off work later today I'll get pictures of the plugs. I'll also try and contact the seller to see if he can give me more background info on any problems and changes to the bike. If I can narrow down when the problems started, ie after air kit, jets, etc, then maybe we can figure out where to go next. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I have an update. I'm sorry it took me a few days, but it has been SNOWING here for the last 3 days, and I didn't have a place to work. Anyway I'm pretty sure that the catalytic converter is bad. Either melted or plugged. I got the new fuel processor installed. I left my map at stock settings, and started it up. It ran very well for a few minutes, but in the short period of time the CC got really hot. I loaded a map that more closely reflects the condition of my bike, ie big air kit etc, and it ran, but got progressively worse. The CC got red hot and then the bike died. Can't hardly get it to run at that point. Plugs don't tell me much cause the PO that sold me the bike had just put new ones in. Only about 10 miles on those plugs.
So with that being said, can I remove the CC from the bike and pipe through, or do I have to buy a special kit? I'm not in California.
Thanks again for the help, and please if you know, let me know if I can remove the CC.
 

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What causes a catalytic converter to glow is excessively rich fuel mixture, so the "now" bad cat is the consequence, not the initial problem. That problem still exists by evidence of the still red cat, which is now rendered useless.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What causes a catalytic converter to glow is excessively rich fuel mixture, so the "now" bad cat is the consequence, not the initial problem. That problem still exists by evidence of the still red cat, which is now rendered useless.
Correct. I was hoping that if I could at least get it running, I could diagnose what was wrong. I took the CC off, and no change in how it ran. So CC is probably okay. I'm lost at this point so I hauled the bike into my mechanic. Hopefully he will have the tools to diagnose and get it running again.
Thanks everybody for your input.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good to know. I spoke with a muffler guy in town, and he can make me a custom pipe routing option for between $250-$300, or gut the goat belly for around $100. I'll cross that bridge once the mechanic gets the bike running. His first thoughts once he heard the bike when I dropped it off is incorrect fuel pressure. He is going to check that, and then dig into compression, injectors etc if fuel pressure is correct.
 

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He should check plugs first to see if one/both cylinders are the offenders. If only one, then fuel pressure is not the issue.
Injectors, themselves, give very little problem.
Compression should have no bearing on the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I went and spoke with the mechanic today. He hasn't had much time to actually work on the bike, but he did have it running for a few minutes and he seems to think that it might be the Throttle Position Sensor being bad. When he had it opened up (WOT) the bike ran great, but as soon as he started moving through the throttle positions the bike ran like crap. At idle especially it was very bad, and was very very rich. He hasn't had a chance to look at plugs, but I pulled them on Saturday and all 4 looked the same. Very black. He is going to keep me posted. And SFAIR I wanted to thank you for your input and knowledge. Not everyone is willing to share what they know. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ya I hope its not bad either. For whatever dumb reason it appears that it is not a replaceable part. What is up with that? Seems kind of stupid. Do you know if there are any other models that will work? I saw several on ebay, and if you type in the numbers on the side it shows several for different cars that match that number. I'm hoping that I can find one if that is indeed what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So after weeks of waiting for Fed Ex, I have an update. First off the TPS was throwing an error code, and the mechanic did a voltage test on it and it was bouncing all over the place. We figured it was bad for sure. I found a throttle assembly on the internet and it took fedex two weeks to deliver it! Mechanic got it installed and it ran a little better, but still is having problems. TPS code is now gone, but still won't run very well. We noticed fuel coming out of the injectors, so he (mechanic) pulled the fuel pump and did a test. Fuel pump is providing 9-11 psi. Injectors leak all the time, which explains the very rich condition. He pumped up the fuel system to 23 psi and the injectors still leak. He is going to see if he can hook the injectors up to an external system he has and apply 50 psi, and then see if he can get the injectors pulsing correctly. Does anyone know what the fuel pump should be providing? Thanks for all the help everybody.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you. I had done some reading and had read right around the 40 psi mark, so its good to know what it should be. I'll pass the info along to my mechanic.
 
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