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Discussion Starter #1
]I guess I'm going to replace my stator, only 13,000 miles on my 2008 and it's fried... but my questions what tool do I need to get those damm locker nuts off? is there a special HEX tool i need. thank you
 

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Same 5mm multipoint hex head (Allen) socket undid all of the bolts (cover and stator) when I had to replace my stator. The three bolts which attach the stator have been OEM treated with non-permanent locktite so they're a bit more difficult to remove.

Didn't know that the '08s had the same stator problem as some '06s and '07s, but the stator in the pic has the same burned look as mine did.
 

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So your saying that a 5MM will do the job??? it has that male end, so it won't stay in place, kinda strips off, i don't wanna strip the damm bolt... then i will be pissed.. don't i need one of them Torx bit, so that will fit over the male end?? i didn't know either on the 08, but with 13,000 miles, it looks like it needs to be replaced... i also bought a R/R too just incase..
 

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I bought a 5mm hex head at Ace Hardware and it did the job. Unless Kawi changed the bolts for a different head size for '09 the 5mm should work. I had zero problem with stripping, in fact until I got the hex head socket I used a 5mm Allen wrench to remove the stator cover bolts. I got the hex head socket because it's necessary to use a torque wrench for reassembling the parts.

However, if once a hex head bolt begins to have the head stripped it's a genuine problem to remove it, and that would especially apply to the stator bolts themselves because Kawi used locktite on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok, then i will get the 5mm Hex Head and hope for the best...LOL did u get the one with or without the hole in it??
 

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Some times a little acetone will soften up the locktite. If memory serves me.
 

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ok, then i will get the 5mm Hex Head and hope for the best...LOL did u get the one with or without the hole in it??
Sorry, I don't know what is meant by the hole in the socket. The one I got from Ace Hardware is actually a Craftsman (Sears) hex head socket, 3/8 inch drive, with a 5mm hex bit on the business end.
Good luck!
 

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ok, then i will get the 5mm Hex Head and hope for the best...LOL did u get the one with or without the hole in it??
I went and bought a set of allen and torx sets,will fit bout anything,Always good to have,also have em for 3/8 ratchet
get that stator off???:smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Now to install the new one when it gets here tomorrow, but i did order a new gasget and R/R just incase..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is the NEW one i ordered but i don't understand, do i just plug it in? because it's doesn't look like my old one, the old one has three white wires coming from the bike, where do those go??? confused.
 

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There are some here who did r and r the stator,rectifier.believe u need to solder them on,check the sticky on top of 900 forum for stator replacing. sure someone here will help,I never had to replace one,but many here have
 

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If you haven't already replaced your R/R and don't want to figure out how to connect the new one, you can check your old one to see whether it still is good. I checked mine and it is still fine. From the sticky:

Originally Posted by Romans5.8 View Post

6. How do you test for Stator and Reg/Rect. Failures?

To quote Sfair, the stator failures are a vicious cycle. Often, a bad stator will take out the Regulator/Rectifier, which, in turn, will eat up the new stator. Both should be tested before firing up the bike. Also, if you're not sure WHAT is failing on your bike, the following tests will get you squared away.

Test 3 - Regulator Rectifier Test PERFORM THIS TEST BEFORE RUNNING A BIKE AFTER STATOR REPLACEMENT!

This test is very important. If you've just replaced your stator, perform this test next, to make sure that it's safe to start the bike. Otherwise, your new stator may fail.

First, remove the regulator/rectifier from the bike, Noting the red, black, and white wire positions. On mine, I used a pencil and marked "R, B, W1, W2, W3" above each location a wire would be plugged into.

Set your regulator down and grab out your trusty meter, once again set to ohms. Zero the meter. Set to X1K resistance if the option is available to you.

Black probe to Black, Red probe to White 1
Black probe to Black, Red probe to White 2
Black probe to Black, Red probe to White 3
Note the readings.

Repeat the tests, this time reversing the probes (Red to black, black to white)
Repeat the tests one more time, but this time, in places where you tested using the black pin you noted, use the red. You should have 12 readings noted.

If your rectifier is working properly, you are looking for low resistance in one direction, and infinite resistance in the opposite direction.
 
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