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Discussion Starter #1
So, I have a 2003 1600 classic and there are a few issues I'm having with it. The first is that randomly while riding, the FI/Oil press/Temp light will illuminate and FI is displayed on the LCD and the bike runs like crap, I think it enters "Limp" mode. I can get to about 55 MPH, but that is about it. Then, out of nowhere, the light will go out and the LCD clears and it runs fine... until it happens again. it is completely random when it happens, so I have no idea what is causing it.

Secondly, when I try to read the fault codes, I can't. My reset button (the right one) doesn't work. According to the Manual, I have to ground the diag wire, then navigate to the trip meter, then hold the reset button for 3 seconds to have it blink the codes. I have disassembled the speedo and read out both buttons, the right one never reads for continuity, even when depressed, but the mode button (left one) does.

A little info about the bike: Aftermarket K&N kit on the right side, Vance and Hines big shots staggered exhaust, and a Thunder MFG Lightning fuel injection controller.

Any help or advice is much appreciated!
 

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So, I have a 2003 1600 classic and there are a few issues I'm having with it. The first is that randomly while riding, the FI/Oil press/Temp light will illuminate and FI is displayed on the LCD and the bike runs like crap, I think it enters "Limp" mode. I can get to about 55 MPH, but that is about it. Then, out of nowhere, the light will go out and the LCD clears and it runs fine... until it happens again. it is completely random when it happens, so I have no idea what is causing it.

Secondly, when I try to read the fault codes, I can't. My reset button (the right one) doesn't work. According to the Manual, I have to ground the diag wire, then navigate to the trip meter, then hold the reset button for 3 seconds to have it blink the codes. I have disassembled the speedo and read out both buttons, the right one never reads for continuity, even when depressed, but the mode button (left one) does.

A little info about the bike: Aftermarket K&N kit on the right side, Vance and Hines big shots staggered exhaust, and a Thunder MFG Lightning fuel injection controller.

Any help or advice is much appreciated!

First off, turf the fuel controller for now, second there is a yellow wire by the battery, that's the wire you ground for the fault codes, I've never heard of it not working.

But as you say the right button doesn't work. But I'd start the diagnosis without the fuel controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
First off, turf the fuel controller for now
What do you mean by turf?

Also, an update: while troubleshooting last night, I was looking at the wiring, and accidently touched a ground wire for the fuel controller to the positive terminal on the battery... bike instantly turned off and will not start. I disconnected the fuel controller completely, verified that I'm getting spark on the plugs, read out the fuel injector power relay, and got the fault codes to show. It is showing 41 and 42, which are both fuel injectors. is it possible that I fried the injectors, or is the ECU more likely? I'm currently in the process of finding a power commander 3 for a reasonable price so that I could just take out the Lightning FI. The original owner must have put it in and I can find no support whatsoever on Thunder MFG website for it.
 

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Turf = disconnect, fix the problem without having additional issues to consider. Makes no difference what controller you have, disconnect the whole thing so it's as close to stock as possible, then start to figure out the problem. I can't imagine there is not a fuse someplace between the ECU and the battery, I'd look there first.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, I know its been a while, but I finally have an update. The first issue turned out to be the ECU, and now that has been replaced and it is back to the random limp mode. I was able to get into diagnostic mode while the issue was happening and it gave me a code 52, which is the #2 ignition coil. Since it is still intermittent, how would you recommend I troubleshoot it down between the coil and the wiring? I am getting spark at all sparkplugs, but they all seem weak. I am thinking about just replacing both coils and all sparkplug wires. What do you think?
 

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do coils go bad? i dunno but do know that on my bike there was a problem at the elbow at the spark plug wire cap, that connected there is weak right at the cap elbow
 

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1. How many miles on the bike?
2. How long have you owned?
3. Who replaced the ECU?
4. Was it the EXACT part number or a Kawasaki supercede?
5. Was it new or used?
6. Is the PC still connected?
7. Do not throw parts at it just yet. Coils are not a sore spot with these units.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1. How many miles on the bike?
2. How long have you owned?
3. Who replaced the ECU?
4. Was it the EXACT part number or a Kawasaki supercede?
5. Was it new or used?
6. Is the PC still connected?
7. Do not throw parts at it just yet. Coils are not a sore spot with these units.
The bike has 16,000 miles and I have owned it since 2015. I replaced the ECU with a used one and it was an exact Kawasaki part number. PC is not still connected. As I stated in the original post, the issues I'm having happens completely at random, there is no way for me to reliably duplicate the issue in a controlled way.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With the original ECU, I was getting the #1 and #2 fuel injector codes and the bike would not start at all. This is after I accidentally touched the diagnostic wire to the positive battery lead. I was not able to get the codes for what was causing the rough running then due to lack of knowledge and experience working on this bike. After reading wiring and across several sensors, I deduced the ECU was bad. Once I replaced it, it started and the original issue came back. The engine is running exactly how it did with the original ECU, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, another update. I finally got home and was looking at the #2 ignition coil under the right side of the gas tank. Low and behold, the red wire to the ECU was backed halfway off! I started the bike, it ran on one cylinder and sounded like it does when it runs like crap. I played with the wire and heard it go from running good to running like crap over and over. I pushed the connection back on (took a little more effort than I thought) and now it is running great, even when I play with the wire. I am going to ride it as often as I can for the next few weeks, but I'll let you all know if it fixed it or not. I'd like to thank all of you for your help. Now to try and fix my reset button on my speedometer.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Try swapping coils with each other and see if error code changes.
Once I seated the connector, the FI light went out and it doesn't give me any codes when I touch the diagnostic cable to the negative lead anymore. Should I still swap the coils?
 
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