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Discussion Starter #1
2000 Nomad 1500 50k miles
Like everyone else, I have experienced the typical soft clutch problems on this bike. I replaced the spring with a Barnett to rectify the slippage problems. I also replaced the fluid in the reservoir (only), leaving enough fluid to keep the ports covered, and cleaned out the ports in the res.

Fired it up for a test drive and I did not have enough clutch handle to keep it from pulling with the lever against the grips. Made a quick adjustment of the handle and it seemed normal (slight tendency to want to pull with lever pulled against grip). I eased out to the street and let loose and to my surprise it pulled the front wheel off the ground. For the first time I felt the true power of that 1500. The test drive was so much fun and exciting that I stayed out for quite a long time.

The longer I drove the harder it became to shift gears, especially downshift. Remembering all the posts I have seen here I assumed that I may have installed the limiter springs (washers) incorrectly. By the time I got back home I could barely shift gears at all and was pretty much stuck in 4th gear. I tore it down and found that I (my buddy who was assisting) had stacked the washers like this: engine))). I was certain this was incorrect though I have not found anything in my manual about orientation of the washers. I reinstalled the washers, engine)(), and tried again. The clutch would release enough to roll the bike with a dead engine and in gear but I was still stuck in 4th. I cranked it up and had the same result, stuck in gear.

I took the side cover off again to visually inspect the clutch action and discovered that the front of the clutch was barely moving while the rearward side had what appeared to be normal movement. Another tear-down revealed that the washers had slipped during installation and I crimped two of them. I ordered new OEM washers that will be here in a couple of days. Out of curiosity I reassembled the clutch with the crimped washers )() to see if it would change anything. It is still stuck in gear and the forward side of the clutch barely moves. The clutch disks appear (to me) to be in good shape.

Why is it stuck in gear?
What is the correct orientation of the washers?
Is it possible to use too much grease when installing the washers?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
UPDATE: Got the new washers installed and the clutch seems to be working correctly. However, It is still stuck in gear. I can only shift between 4th and 5th. HELP!
 

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Is this bike new to you? Did the transmission ever shift to your knowledge, or has it been this way since you got it? Doesn't sound like a clutch problem to me. Are you able to run the bike and get it moving in 4th? If so, does it shift smoothly into 5th and back into 4th? If it does that, I'd say your clutch is working and it's looking more like an issue with the shifter forks and drum assembly.
 

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Thanks Rick. No, the bike is not new to me, I have put 20k of the 50k miles on it. It has been a great bike and it has been problem free until now. You may be correct in your thinking there are bent shift forks but I hope it may be something simpler. On the early 'test' drive (with the washers installed incorrectly) it became harder and harder to shift. Because of that I used more and more force to attempt to shift to a lower gear. Now when I attempt to downshift nothing happens. If I hold the shifter down, sometimes I will hear a grinding sound but no movement.

I am a fair (auto) mechanic but I know nothing of the internals of a motorcycle. What would you suggest as my next step? Is the transmission something I want to tackle or should I get off my wallet and let a pro do it?
 

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This is not a clutch issue. I would first inspect the shift pedal and gearshift shaft to insure the splines have not stripped. Inspect the gearshift shaft for breakage at the weld. Inspect the shift lever and spline where it connects to the rear gearshift arm. If everything is OK at this point you will need to remove the bevel gear case to gain access to the shift mechanism arm and gear position lever. If these items are found to be OK then it will require an engine tear down. The shift drum and all gears are internal of the engine case.
Does require engine removal, basic tools and a repair manual.
 

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Given the amount of labor to get to the transmission, it would likely cost more to have a shop fix it then the bike is worth. Given that, I'd do it myself. I've had my engine torn down and will say it's a sizable job, but if you know your way around an engine it's not that difficult. It will just take you some time and of course some money to replace what's broken and then the gaskets required to put your engine back together. That assuming you have to do that at all. Given what you described, I'm thinking that's what you'll need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Bandit and Rick. The original problem was definitely a clutch problem that has turned into a whole new problem, probably because of my attempts to shift when the clutch was not working correctly. Of course I did not want to hear that I may have to pull the engine. Considering the bike is 15 years old and has 50k miles should I do anything else to it while I have it torn down?
 

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I don't remember if the 2000 still had the plastic oil gear, but if it does that's an obvious thing to replace. That's why I had to do my teardown. Since you've already go 50K I'm assuming you have a steel gear as that would be a lot for the plastic one. If you had any other issues with the bike I'd address those, but otherwise I'd just check all your running surfaces to make sure they look nice and smooth and move on. The only real perishable items I can think of are lifters and valve seals, but if yours weren't making any clatter and you wen't burning oil, they're probably fine.
 

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Thanks Bandit and Rick. The original problem was definitely a clutch problem that has turned into a whole new problem, probably because of my attempts to shift when the clutch was not working correctly. Of course I did not want to hear that I may have to pull the engine. Considering the bike is 15 years old and has 50k miles should I do anything else to it while I have it torn down?
There are a number of things you should do while the engine is disassembled, but prior to removal you should inspect for any oil or coolant leaks. These are areas you want to address, such as a water pump seal, clutch rod seal, valve cover leak, etc. Make notes to repair these areas on reassembly.

Internally you will have a lot to look at, so take your time and inspect each part individually. And by the way, your engine did not have the plastic oil pump gear as it was last used on the '99 models. Be sure to inspect the collar on the left balancer for wear or burnishing, this will cause engine vibration. Also inspect the rubber dampers in the weight. There are eight of them, had to replace them on my last build.

If you need help along the way, just ask. And remember nothing has to be forced to disassemble the engine. If it does not slide apart you have probably missed something. An electric impact wrench will be your friend.
 

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ok, was your clutch problem fixed by the new springs or did that cause all the other problems? I also have a very soft and sometimes it slips when accelerating clutch on my 01 nomad. it didn't used to be like that. I'm about to do a clutch master rebuild on it. it had 40,000 on it when I got it and it was awesome. now it has to think about it when you roll the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
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I am fairly certain that the Barnett spring solved the slipping clutch issue that was the same as you describe on your ride. The Nomads seem to be famous for that issue. I believe that I have probably bent a fork or shift linkage while "test" riding (forcefully shifting) with the washers improperly installed. I would bet that the stiffer spring will resolve your slipping clutch.
 

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hey thanks for that info. and sorry you got more problems. mine has crapped the bed too. my fuel pump has gone out and I don't know what else.
 
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