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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '09 900 custom. I was looking into lowering it, just to get the fender a little closer to the tire. The best thing I have found is the l.a. customs lowering bracket for going down 1 to 2 inches. I was wondering if 1 inch is possible without dragging pegs.? Often my wife is on the back, but when she is I do not ride to aggressively. On my own is a little different story. Or if there is a better way to get the fender closer to the wheel without lowering it. Thanks for your help and advice in advance. And sorry if this question has been asked a thousand times, just couldn't find it.
 

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Call it 1001!

I have the Barons kit (BA-7500-74) on my 2012 Custom, with the rear dropped 2". I was dragging the pegs now and again at stock height (shock preload at "4" from the dealer)...so it is all about how you ride, your preload, and how much weight you plan on carrying. You can also firm-up the VN900 uni-shock by cranking up the preload...this can help when riding 2-up. I'm on "6" now, and almost never ride 2-up. You have to face it, the bike will be lower. So will the pegs and exhaust. Also, if you only lower the rear, the bike pivots down in the rear, but the front remains stock...so do the geometry...the pegs drop about 1/2 of the rear-only drop...give or take...(theoretically, if the pegs were exactly 1/2 way between the front and rear contact patch)...you get the idea.

Yes, the fender / tire relationship is better.

Warning from the Barons install instructions:

WARNING: Installing a lowering kit will decrease initial ground clearance. Care should be taken to avoid bottoming, especially over bumps or turns. To maintain proper balanced geometry, the front and rear of the motorcycle should ne lowered equally. Failure to properly install the lowering kit and operate the motorcycle after installation may result in serious injury or death to the rider.

LIMITED GUARANTEE: Because we cannot control the application of our products, buyer assumes risks for any and all damage caused to him or herself or any third party by virtue of any failure of these parts. GUARANTEE for such parts is limited to our replacement costs thereof. This GUARANTEE is in lieu of all other guaranties or warranties express or implied, and all other such guaranties or warranties are hereby expressly disclaimed. By installation of these parts, buyer irrevocably agrees to the foregoing. NOTE: Our install guides provide a basic outline on the proper installation of our products. Further tuning and/or fitment may be required. Baron bears no responsibility on installation costs associated with this product.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the help. It is appreciated. I guess let me rephrase my question, does anyone on here have a lowered bike that rides 2 up?
 

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Yes, two up on occasion, mine is lowered 2", shock in the middle on preload. When momma's on I stiffen it up 1 notch. No problem. I have drug the tip when turning right, but was a dip in the middle of corner at intersection and I wasn't babying it around the corner either.
 

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I had my Classic lowered 2" with the shock set on the 2nd stiffest setting. It would bottom out occasionally riding 2 up. The wife & I weigh just over 300# combined. Sometimes it sounded like the shock bottoming, and sometimes like the tire hitting the plastic splash guard (don't know how similar this is on the Custom). Switched it to 1" and the stiffest setting and it never happened again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks a lot for the help. I just ordered the kit and cannot wait to get it installed now. especially with the weather starting to warm up, getting the itch to go out.
 

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1" Drop

Okay call it 1002, if I may hijack, but what about the progressive rear shock (lowers bike 1")? Is there a difference in ride quality vs the lowering kit?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright, this might be a stupid question but what does call it 1002 mean?
 

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Keep in mind your exhaust, especially if you have long pipes, you dont want them scraping more than just a light tap at most, can very easily put you down if the rear tire starts to loose grip. I KNOW!!
 

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Call it 1001!
I'm trying to find the advantage/disadvantage of going with the Progressive rear shock which lowers the bike 1 inch, over going with a lowering kit. As you probably already know, you can drag the VN900 pegs in stock configuration. I did it just to see what it would take to do it. Also ridden 2-up (280 lbs between the 2 of us) in some fairly twisty backroads with no scraping. It's in how you ride. When this rear tire wears out, I'm almost convinced to go with a 200/70/15 and lowering 1" in some manner. Curious about whether the bigger tire would somewhat offset the drop in peg/pipe height (dragging).
 

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Lets play the numbers game...

Lets say you put on a rear tire that has a radius that is 1" longer than the stock tire. Then lets say that you lower the rear suspension by 1". What would happen?

Well, when you install the rear tire with the 1" longer radius, this will move the entire rear end of the bike UP one inch. Seat, axle, the whole she-bang. The relationship between the tire and the fender will not change. Picture yourself driving your rear tire up into a 1 X 4 piece of wood.

OK, so now you lower the rear suspension by 1". What happens now? The axle will not move...it's height has to do with the radius of the tire...but the entire rear of the bike will drop one inch...this lost inch will be in between the tire and the fender. The seat will drop one inch (roughly)....as the entire chassis of the bike (in the rear) drops this one inch.

So, if you do both - increase the radius of the rear tire by 1" and drop the rear suspension by 1" - then...drum roll please...

...The seat will be at the same height as it was before you started...while you will lose an inch of space between the rear tire and the fender...hence you will lose 1" of suspension travel (all things being equal).

Tada.

Also, be advised that if you only drop the rear of the bike, the rear essentially pivots down on the fulcrum that is the front axle....that's why the pegs do not drop 1" when you drop only the rear by 1"...but the lower exhaust does drop about 1", since it is pretty much right over the rear axle.
 

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the numbers

Methinks the radius on the tire change will be, 1/2 of 70% of the difference (20 cm) a 180 (current) to a 200 (desired) tire width. Hence 200/70. Not necessarily 1 inch. As you say, the tire, whatever that actual measure is, will increase height of the entire rear. Lowering the rear suspension 1 inch, by whatever method, lowers the frame at the center point of the bike by half that (1/2"), not having touched the front suspension. Phew! Got all that. Still wondering about the pro/cons of replacing the spring as opposed to a lowering kit. If anyone out there has the Progressive spring I would appreciate some evaluation.
 
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